Day 1 of Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris kicked things off in the most spectacular way, with runways from Schiaparelli and Dior taking to the stage. It would only set the standard of what we could expect from the rest of the week, and now, we take a look at a couple of the shows from days 2 and 3 of Haute Couture Week AW22/23.
Runway (Day 2 - 5th July)
The collection from Alexandre Vauthier was quite calming through its minimalist styling and the use of no more than two colours within one outfit; yet the calming effect was contrasted strongly through the use of dazzling sequins and strong structural lines seen in a few looks, particularly this one. The model is seen walking the runway in a two-piece black tailored suit, styled with a black long-sleeved ribbed roll neck underneath to capture the layering expected with the Autumn/Winter season. The padded shoulders lead into a boxy shoulderline, strengthened through the contrasting satin wide peak lapels that almost reach the shoulders themselves. The jacket front is double-breasted with six large black buttons and with a closer gap on the bottom row, highlighting the fitted lines on the waist. The sleeves are half length and two tall flapped pockets feature near the bottom. The trousers are flared from the knee and long in length, creating quite a powerful statement on the runway.
The sophisticated and chic nature of wearing just a waistcoat and trouser ensemble is something that has been becoming popular, and it was indeed one of the looks focused on in the Alexandre Vauthier collection. The model in look one sports a plain black waistcoat with a three-button front, designed with a low-scooped neckline to elongate the silhouette. The hem is notched, thin jet pockets are situated either side and belt loops can be seen on the sides too. The trousers are designed with fullness at the top thanks to the pleats, leading to create this loose fit on the legs which are a great contrast to the tailored bodice. The trousers were a detail which wasn't overlooked in the collection as the second look above shows a pair of mid-waist trousers with pleats again at the waist, creating a sharpness down the centre front and emphasising the crisp lines. The waistband is tall with a thin belt looped through, with a sapphire blue long-sleeved embellished top tucked in with padding in the shoulders.
The emphasis on the shoulders were a vocal point in a few of the looks with the same cut and silhouette; yet it was the difference in styling that made each look their own. The beige, blue and black oversized blazers all featured the wide peak lapels and tall flapped pockets with half-cut sleeves, worn with knee-length shorts and different tops underneath. The beige piece included a high-neck top with a smooth finish, whilst the blue and black outfits were styled with knitted long-sleeved tops, a gold buckle belt further differentiating these outfits. The wide shoulders continued into the stone-coloured trench coat as well, designed with wide sleeves and the classic features of a tall collar, shoulder epaulettes and the buckled belt in the centre. An additional fabric piece was buttoned on the cuff on either sleeve to really enhance the fullness of this coat.
Viktor & Rolf
Runway (Day 3 - 6th July)
The Viktor & Rolf collection for Haute Couture Week showcased on day 3 was certainly didn't shy away from the exaggeration in its silhouettes of the attires, such as this look portrays quite well. The top and trousers are quite subdued and calming in comparison to the camel long-length coat worn, with the trousers light grey in colour and designed with a minimal flare at the bottom. The two images show the difference between wearing a flatter shoe and a platform has on the trouser hem, with the first showing it bunched up significantly more. The tops are long sleeved and cut from a striped white and grey/blue cloth, finished with the stripes going horizontally across the waist to create a tall waist belt in effect. The neckline features a crisp tall collar with the fabric layered on the centre of the bodice to create a bit of texture; but the contrast in a more ruffled neckline to a wider and open shoulder on the camel coats provides a unique definition to the collection indeed.
Ignoring the actual silhouettes of the coats and suits that were modelled on the runway, the variety of cloths and patterns were quite cool regarding a business wardrobe. From wide pinstripes to ones more narrower or thicker in width to create a bolder line, there would be a lot to select from. The fourth look is very defined with the black houndstooth design finished with a bit of sheen to provide a bit more depth, whilst it's also enhanced thanks to the contrasting of the more matte finish of the colourful striped shirt underneath. Stripes on a whole, were a common pattern included in the looks; but look five softened them through the navy blue cashmere/woollen cloth of the wide ruffled collar shirt. It was a great combination of multiple blue hues and was also a strong way of showing how to mix and match textures of the same colour to deliver an outfit that's a statement.
Continuing on from the navy ruffled coat, this same silhouette was seen in a few other pieces either in a powerful or more sophisticated manner. The first example above shows the model sporting a soft knee-length black coat with the collar standing out from the back and quite tall too. The shoulders draped below the natural line and the sleeves allowed the white shirt cuffs to stick through, outlining the piece. The shirt collar was also high on the neck and quite tall to ensure it didn't look out of place with the coat collar. The same goes for the second look with the model sporting the wrapped stripe shirt with a contrasting white collar, worn under a dark navy/black ruffled lapel suit and trouser set, layered with a metallic finished ruffled knee-length coat.
We're certainly looking forward to the closing day of Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris. Day 2 and 3 were definitely filled with more embellishment and tailoring galore, so here are a few more shows below you may have missed. Which one catches your eye the most?
Giorgio Armani Privé - Runway (Day 2 - 5th July)
Celia Kritharioti - Runway (Day 2 - 5th July)
Franck Sorbier - Runway (Day 3 - 6th July)
Elie Saab - Runway (Day 3 - 6th July)
Keep an eye out for the stunning long-length tailored coats and suiting ensembles, donned with a substantial amount of embellishment and beading to create show-stopping runway pieces.
Make sure to check back on our blog for more from the ongoing Haute Couture Fashion Week AW22/23 in Paris, including the opening day of couture week, and catch up with the latest runways from the menswear season!
Feeling inspired for your next show-stopper suit? Get in touch with our tailoring team today!
"PEOPLE WILL STARE. MAKE IT WORTH THEIR WHILE" - HARRY WINSTON -
A Hand Tailored Suit, the bespoke tailoring company offering you a slice of London’s Savile Row, for a cut of the cost.
Custom clothing cut for Men, Women & Children. We offer only the finest of cloths from only the finest of cloth merchants from around the world. Showrooms & tailoring visits throughout England, Ireland & Mainland Europe.
Contact us today for more information