This year, New York Fashion Week took place between the 8th and 13th of September. New York Fashion Week is a biannual event occurring in February and September, with February focusing on menswear. The main headquarters for Fashion Week is Spring Studios on Varick Street, but designers also host their own runways throughout New York City.
Peter Do debuted his first collection, Spring Summer 24, as the creative director for Helmut Lang on the 8th of September. Helmut Lang is known for being minimalist and deconstructionist, and Peter Do certainly stuck to the brand's theme. Lang is also known for simple and elegant tailoring that Do put his own twist on, adding seatbelt-like straps that referenced his former inspiration from bondage and underground clubs. As a big part of Lang's past ad campaigns, the New York cab was also referenced in the collection. Collaborator poet Ocean Vuong also alluded to the famous ad campaign in his poem printed on the runway and various collection items. The colour palette was black and white with bright pops of yellow and pink and a focus on geometric designs and androgyny. Take a look at the full runway show below before we dive into some of the standout pieces.
As noted, Helmut Lang is known for their exquisite tailoring and Do did not disappoint in that department. This beautiful black suit with a slouchy cut paired with a simple white shirt was elevated by the bright yellow seatbelt-like sash and matching stripes down the outside seam of the trousers. The sash and stripes gave a militaristic or futuristic feel to the look.
Inspiration from the 80s was also evident in the collection. This black leather mini-dress sported a puff-ball hemline popular in that decade. The rest of the silhouette was more modern: loose fitting, natural-shouldered, and sleeveless.
The taxi cab ad campaign was referenced in this matching two-piece denim set printed in grey and white tones. The fit was slim but slouchy, as seen throughout the collection, and the boot cut of the trousers elongated the entire profile.
Androgyny was evident throughout the collection. Here, a pair of simple but beautifully tailored slim-fitting black trousers has been paired with an effortless sleeveless white shirt. The outfit was heightened with a wide leather Japanese obi-style cummerbund suitable for both male and female wear.
Sleevelessness was also a theme on the runway. This look demonstrates suit-wearing in an effortless, more casual way. The black flap-pocketed sleeveless waistcoat-jacket hybrid was paired with an untucked white sleeveless shirt featuring a 70s style wide open collar, slouchy but tailored black pants, and a matching loose-fitting, billowing overcoat.
More Eye-Catching Outfits
Here are a few more of the runway looks that stood out for us.
What was your favourite look from this runway?
Did you enjoy the outfits from this collection? Which was your favourite? Did you appreciate the elegant tailoring? Did you like the pops of vivid colour? Did you enjoy the androgynous looks?
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