Single-Breasted vs Double-Breasted Bespoke Suits: Which Style Should You Choose?

 

When investing in a bespoke suit, one of the most fundamental decisions you'll face is choosing between a single-breasted or double-breasted design. This choice affects not only your appearance but also how you feel, the occasions you can wear the suit to, and the statement you make about your personal style.

At A Hand Tailored Suit, we've crafted hundreds of bespoke garments for discerning clients who understand that the perfect suit is more than fabric and stitching—it's an expression of identity. Whether you're preparing for a wedding, building your business wardrobe, or simply want clothing that makes you feel exceptional, understanding these two classic styles is essential.

Understanding Single-Breasted Suits

The single-breasted suit is the foundation of modern tailoring. Characterized by a single row of buttons (typically one, two, or three) and overlapping fabric that fastens on one side, this style has dominated men's and women's professional wardrobes for decades.

Menswear: The Single-Breasted Advantage

 

 

For men, the single-breasted suit offers unparalleled versatility. The clean lines and minimal visual weight create a streamlined silhouette that works equally well in boardrooms and at weekend events. The notch lapel—most common with single-breasted jackets—provides a classic, approachable aesthetic that never goes out of style.

Key benefits for men:

• Versatility: Easily dressed up or down depending on shirt, tie, and shoe choices
• Comfort: Less fabric means better breathability and ease of movement
• Modern appeal: The slim, contemporary silhouette suits current fashion trends
• Practicality: Can be worn unbuttoned without looking disheveled
• Body-friendly: Flatters most body types, particularly slimmer builds

The single-breasted jacket is ideal for men who need a suit that transitions seamlessly from business meetings to after-work drinks, or from a daytime wedding to the evening reception.

Ladieswear: Elegant Simplicity

For women, the single-breasted suit jacket offers refined sophistication with a feminine edge. The streamlined design creates an elongating effect, making it particularly flattering for petite frames or those seeking a more understated professional presence.

Key benefits for women:

• Feminine tailoring: Allows for more fitted, contoured cuts that emphasize the waist
• Versatility: Works beautifully with trousers, skirts, or dresses
• Professional polish: Perfect for business environments without appearing overly formal
• Layering ease: Slim profile makes it easy to wear with coats and accessories
• Modern elegance: Suits contemporary professional and social occasions

Women's single-breasted bespoke suits can be tailored with subtle details—nipped waists, slightly longer lapels, or unique button placements—that add personality while maintaining professional appropriateness.

Understanding Double-Breasted Suits

The double-breasted suit makes a bolder statement. With two parallel columns of buttons and a wider overlap of fabric, this style exudes authority, formality, and classic elegance. While it fell out of favor in the early 2000s, the double-breasted suit has experienced a significant renaissance in recent years.

Menswear: Power and Presence

 

 

For men, the double-breasted suit is the epitome of sartorial confidence. The structured shoulders, peak lapels (most common with this style), and substantial fabric create a commanding presence that's perfect for formal occasions and leadership positions.

Key benefits for men:

• Authority: The structured silhouette conveys confidence and gravitas
• Formal elegance: Ideal for black-tie optional events, galas, and formal weddings
• Body enhancement: The extra fabric and structure can balance broader builds
• Timeless style: Evokes classic Hollywood glamour and traditional tailoring
• Distinctive appearance: Stands out in a sea of single-breasted suits

The double-breasted jacket must be worn buttoned to maintain its intended silhouette, which creates a more formal, put-together appearance at all times.

Ladieswear: Bold Sophistication

 

For women, the double-breasted suit jacket is a statement of power dressing. It combines feminine tailoring with structured authority, creating a look that's both sophisticated and commanding.

Key benefits for women:

• Executive presence: Perfect for senior professional roles and leadership positions
• Fashion-forward: Currently trending in high fashion and professional circles
• Structural balance: Can create curves and definition through strategic tailoring
• Versatility in styling: Can be worn as a dress with nothing underneath or traditionally with trousers
• Confidence boost: The substantial design makes a memorable impression

Women's double-breasted suits can be tailored with softer shoulders and more contoured waists than men's versions, creating a distinctly feminine interpretation of this powerful style.

Occasion-Based Selection

 

Business and Professional Settings

Single-breasted suits dominate modern business environments. They're less formal, more approachable, and allow for greater flexibility in how you present yourself throughout the day. For both men and women in client-facing roles, creative industries, or tech sectors, single-breasted suits strike the perfect balance between professional and personable.

Double-breasted suits work beautifully in traditional professional environments—law firms, financial institutions, executive boardrooms—where formality and authority are valued. They're also excellent for important presentations, keynote speeches, or any situation where you want to project confidence and command attention.

Formal Events and Celebrations

For black-tie optional events, galas, and formal evening occasions, the double-breasted suit in darker colors (navy, charcoal, black) provides appropriate gravitas and elegance.

For daytime weddings, garden parties, and semi-formal celebrations, the single-breasted suit offers more flexibility. It can be dressed up with pocket squares and ties or dressed down with open collars and loafers.

Body Type Considerations

For Men

Single-breasted suits are universally flattering but particularly excellent for:

• Slim or athletic builds (creates clean, elongated lines)
• Shorter statures (less visual weight, more height)
• Those who prefer minimal structure

Double-breasted suits work particularly well for:

• Taller men (can carry the additional fabric and structure)
• Broader builds (the structure creates balance and definition)
• Those seeking to add presence to their frame

For Women

Single-breasted suits are ideal for:

• Petite frames (creates vertical lines and elongation)
• Those seeking versatile, everyday professional wear
• Hourglass figures (allows for fitted, contoured tailoring)

Double-breasted suits excel for:

• Taller women (the structure is proportionally balanced)
• Those wanting to create curves through structured tailoring
• Rectangle or athletic builds (adds definition and shape)

The Construction Details That Matter

 

Lapel Styles

Single-breasted suits typically feature notch lapels, which create a subtle, classic V-shape. Peak lapels on single-breasted jackets are less common but add formality and visual interest.

Double-breasted suits almost always feature peak lapels, which point upward and outward, creating a more dramatic, formal appearance that complements the jacket's substantial structure.

Button Configuration

Single-breasted options include:

• One-button (modern, sleek, slightly informal)
• Two-button (most popular, versatile, universally flattering)
• Three-button (traditional, conservative, creates longer torso line)

Double-breasted configurations include:

• 4x1 (four buttons, one fastens—sleek and modern)
• 6x2 (six buttons, two fasten—classic and traditional)
• 6x1 (six buttons, one fastens—contemporary twist on classic)

The Bespoke Advantage

 

Whether you choose single-breasted or double-breasted, bespoke tailoring transforms the suit from clothing into a second skin. At A Hand Tailored Suit, we use traditional hand-cutting techniques combined with AI-powered, contactless measurement technology to ensure perfect fit regardless of style.

Our bespoke process includes:

• Unique paper pattern created specifically for your body
• Choice of fabrics from renowned mills including Loro Piana and Vitale Barberis Canonico
• Multiple fittings to ensure perfect proportions
• Hand-finished details that elevate quality and longevity
• Fast-track options (2, 3, or 4 weeks) or standard 8-week crafting time

With bespoke tailoring, the traditional limitations of each style can be minimized. A double-breasted suit can be cut to feel lighter and more comfortable. A single-breasted suit can be structured to provide more presence. The choice becomes about aesthetic preference and occasion rather than compromise.

Making Your Decision

The choice between single-breasted and double-breasted ultimately depends on your lifestyle, the occasions you dress for, and how you want to present yourself to the world.

Choose single-breasted if:

• You need maximum versatility across occasions
• Your wardrobe requires suits for daily professional wear
• You prefer modern, streamlined aesthetics
• Comfort and ease of movement are priorities
• You're building your first bespoke suit

Choose double-breasted if:

• You attend formal events regularly
• You want to make a distinctive, memorable impression
• You appreciate classic, traditional tailoring
• You're in leadership or executive positions
• You're adding to an existing suit wardrobe

Consider both if:

• You have varied professional and social obligations
• You want the flexibility to match your suit to the occasion
• You appreciate the nuances of different tailoring styles
• You're building a comprehensive bespoke wardrobe

Final Thoughts

Both single-breasted and double-breasted bespoke suits have earned their place in the pantheon of classic menswear and womenswear. Neither is inherently superior—they simply serve different purposes and create different impressions.

The beauty of bespoke tailoring is that you're not limited to off-the-rack compromises. Whether you choose the streamlined elegance of single-breasted or the commanding presence of double-breasted, your suit will be crafted to your exact specifications, ensuring perfect fit and timeless style.

At A Hand Tailored Suit, we've helped hundreds of clients navigate this decision, creating custom pieces that enhance confidence and make lasting impressions. Our 5-star Trustpilot rating with over 250 customer reviews reflects our commitment to combining traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation.

Ready to discover which style suits you best? Book a consultation with us to explore fabrics, discuss your lifestyle needs, and begin the journey toward a bespoke suit that's uniquely yours. With prices starting at £699 for 2-piece suits and £899 for 3-piece suits, investing in bespoke quality has never been more accessible.

Your perfect suit—whether single-breasted or double-breasted—is waiting to be created.

 

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