Mohair: The Lustrous Elegance of Bespoke Suiting
Mohair stands apart in the world of luxury fabrics, offering a distinctive lustrous sheen and exceptional durability that few materials can match. Harvested from Angora goats and prized for its silky texture, natural brilliance, and remarkable resilience, mohair has adorned the finest suits for generations—a fabric that announces quality and sophistication at first glance.
At A Hand Tailored Suit, mohair represents the pinnacle of elegant suiting, typically blended with fine wool to create fabrics that combine mohair's lustrous beauty with wool's comfort and structure. A bespoke mohair-blend three-piece suit delivers unmatched visual impact whilst providing exceptional longevity—a garment that maintains its stunning appearance through years of wear.
Understanding Mohair's Distinctive Qualities
Mohair's unique characteristics make it one of the most sought-after luxury fibres for premium suiting.
Exceptional lustre: Mohair possesses a natural sheen unmatched by any other animal fibre. This lustrous quality reflects light beautifully, creating depth and visual interest that elevates any garment.
Superior durability: Mohair is one of the strongest natural fibres, highly resistant to abrasion, stretching, and wrinkling. Mohair suits maintain their appearance far longer than comparable fabrics.
Natural resilience: Mohair fibres spring back to their original shape after compression, meaning suits resist wrinkles and maintain crisp appearance throughout the day.
Excellent drape: Despite its strength, mohair drapes beautifully, creating elegant lines and fluid movement that flatter the wearer.
Temperature regulation: Mohair's smooth fibres allow excellent air circulation, keeping you comfortable across varying temperatures.
Dye affinity: Mohair accepts dye exceptionally well, producing rich, vibrant colours with remarkable depth and permanence.
Soil resistance: The smooth fibre surface naturally repels dirt and dust, keeping garments looking fresh between cleanings.
These properties make mohair ideal for suiting that must maintain impeccable appearance through demanding wear—perfect for business professionals and those who appreciate fabrics that perform as beautifully as they look.
Stage 1: Angora Goat Heritage
Mohair comes exclusively from Angora goats, animals bred for centuries to produce the finest, most lustrous fibres.
Ancient origins: Angora goats originated in the Ankara region of Turkey (formerly Angora), where they've been bred for over 2,000 years. Today, South Africa, Texas, and Turkey produce the world's finest mohair.
Breed characteristics: Angora goats are smaller than most breeds, with long, lustrous coats that grow continuously. Unlike sheep, which produce wool with crimp, Angora goats produce smooth, straight fibres that create mohair's characteristic sheen.
Climate requirements: Angora goats thrive in moderate climates with low humidity. Excessive moisture can damage their delicate fleeces, whilst extreme cold requires careful management.
Breeding excellence: Modern breeding programs focus on fibre fineness, lustre, length, and yield. The finest Angora goats produce mohair measuring 25-30 microns with exceptional shine.
Sustainable practices: Responsible mohair producers maintain healthy flocks through proper nutrition, veterinary care, and humane handling, ensuring both animal welfare and fibre quality.
A single Angora goat produces approximately 4-6 kilograms of mohair annually, with the finest fibres coming from young animals—kid mohair from the first shearing being the softest and most prized.
Stage 2: Expert Shearing
Shearing Angora goats requires specialized skill, as mohair's length and lustre demand careful handling to preserve quality.
Biannual shearing: Unlike sheep, Angora goats are typically shorn twice yearly—in spring and autumn. This timing prevents fleeces from becoming excessively long whilst maximizing fibre quality.
Age grading: The first shearing produces kid mohair (under 6 months), the softest and finest grade. Young goat mohair (6-24 months) offers excellent quality for suiting. Adult mohair (over 24 months) provides durability for various applications.
Skilled technique: Shearers must work carefully to avoid second cuts that shorten fibres and reduce value. The entire fleece should be removed in one piece, maintaining fibre length and integrity.
Immediate assessment: As fleeces are removed, they're assessed for fineness, lustre, length, and colour. The finest fleeces from the shoulders and sides are separated for premium applications.
Fleece weight: A single shearing yields 2-3 kilograms of mohair, depending on the animal's age, breeding, and time since last shearing.
The shearing process balances efficiency with care, ensuring mohair retains the qualities that make it exceptional whilst maintaining the highest animal welfare standards.
Stage 3: Meticulous Sorting and Grading
After shearing, mohair undergoes rigorous sorting to separate fibres by quality, ensuring only the finest proceed to suiting production.
Fineness grading: Mohair is sorted by fibre diameter. Kid mohair (23-29 microns) offers the finest, softest fibres for luxury suiting. Young goat mohair (27-34 microns) provides excellent quality for premium garments. Adult mohair (34+ microns) offers durability for various applications.
Lustre assessment: Mohair's value depends significantly on its natural sheen. Fibres are examined under controlled lighting to assess lustre quality, with the brightest, most reflective fibres commanding premium prices.
Length grading: Longer fibres (100mm+) produce stronger, more lustrous yarn suitable for worsted spinning. Shorter fibres are reserved for woollen spinning or blending applications.
Colour sorting: Natural mohair ranges from pure white through cream to grey and brown. White mohair commands premium prices as it can be dyed any colour whilst maintaining brilliant lustre.
Purity standards: Premium suiting mohair must be free from vegetable matter, kemp (coarse fibres), and other contaminants that would compromise quality and appearance.
This meticulous grading ensures only exceptional fibres reach yarn production, maintaining the standards that define luxury mohair suiting.
Stage 4: Specialized Spinning
Transforming mohair into yarn requires expertise and equipment specifically adapted to handle these lustrous fibres.
Blending for suiting: Pure mohair, whilst beautiful, can feel slippery and lacks the structure ideal for tailoring. Premium suiting typically blends mohair with fine wool—common ratios include 55% mohair/45% wool or 60% mohair/40% wool. This combination delivers mohair's lustre and durability with wool's comfort and tailoring properties.
Worsted preparation: For suiting, mohair undergoes worsted preparation where fibres are combed parallel and shorter fibres removed. This creates smooth, lustrous yarn with excellent drape and refined appearance.
Spinning technique: Mohair requires careful spinning to preserve its natural lustre. Moderate twist creates yarn strong enough for weaving whilst maintaining the smooth surface that reflects light beautifully.
Ply construction: Two-ply yarns provide the strength necessary for suiting whilst showcasing mohair's characteristic sheen. The finest suitings use 2-ply yarns spun from kid or young goat mohair blended with Superfine Merino.
Quality control: Continuous monitoring ensures consistent yarn diameter, twist, lustre, and blend ratio throughout production.
The spinning process creates yarn that combines mohair's visual brilliance with wool's practical tailoring properties—the foundation of exceptional suiting fabric.
Stage 5: Weaving Lustrous Fabric
Weaving mohair-blend yarn into suiting fabric requires precision and expertise to showcase the fibre's natural beauty.
Weave selection: Mohair suiting typically uses twill weaves that enhance the fabric's natural lustre whilst providing excellent drape and durability. The diagonal lines of twill weaves catch light beautifully, amplifying mohair's characteristic sheen.
Loom preparation: Mohair's smooth fibres require careful tension adjustment. Proper tension ensures consistent weaving whilst preventing the slippage that can occur with lustrous fibres.
Weaving precision: Expert weavers monitor constantly, ensuring the emerging fabric displays even lustre and consistent structure. Any irregularities are immediately addressed.
Fabric weight: Mohair-blend suiting typically weighs 260-340 grams per metre. Medium weights (280-320 gsm) offer versatility for year-round wear, whilst heavier weights (320-340 gsm) provide additional structure for autumn and winter.
Finishing: After weaving, mohair fabrics undergo careful finishing that enhances lustre whilst maintaining the fabric's natural hand. Light pressing sets the weave without flattening mohair's characteristic surface.
Mill expertise: The finest mohair suitings come from mills with generations of experience—British and Italian houses that understand how to showcase mohair's beauty whilst creating fabrics that tailor beautifully.
Stage 6: Precision Cutting
When mohair-blend fabric arrives at A Hand Tailored Suit, our master cutters approach it with understanding of its unique characteristics.
Fabric assessment: We examine the mohair blend carefully, noting its lustre, drape, and directional properties. Mohair's sheen can appear different depending on viewing angle, requiring careful pattern layout.
Nap consideration: Mohair fabrics often have directional lustre. All pattern pieces must be cut in the same direction to ensure consistent appearance across the finished garment.
Pattern precision: Each piece is positioned to maximize the fabric's visual impact whilst ensuring grain direction creates optimal drape. For three-piece suits, consistency across jacket, waistcoat, and trousers is essential.
Cutting technique: Sharp shears maintained specifically for fine fabrics ensure clean cuts. Mohair's smooth fibres can slip if not cut precisely, making expert technique essential.
Pattern matching: For striped or checked mohair blends, patterns must align perfectly at seams, creating the seamless appearance that distinguishes bespoke tailoring.
Cutting a mohair-blend three-piece suit takes 5-6 hours, as the fabric's lustrous character demands absolute precision.
Stage 7: Hand-Tailoring Your Mohair Masterpiece
Constructing a bespoke mohair-blend suit employs traditional techniques adapted for this distinctive fabric.
Gentle handling: Mohair's smooth surface requires careful handling throughout construction. Our tailors work with precision to prevent slippage whilst shaping the fabric.
Pad-stitching: Thousands of hand stitches create the lapel roll, with tension carefully controlled to shape the fabric without distorting mohair's lustrous surface.
Canvas construction: Lightweight horsehair canvas provides structure whilst allowing the mohair blend's natural drape to create elegant lines that showcase the fabric's sheen.
Sleeve setting: Hand-set sleeves create smooth shoulder lines whilst accommodating mohair's fluid drape, ensuring the fabric's lustre is displayed to best advantage.
Waistcoat craftsmanship: The waistcoat showcases mohair's beauty whilst adding formality. Hand-stitched buttonholes and carefully set pockets demonstrate traditional skill.
Trouser construction: Mohair-blend trousers hang beautifully, creating elegant lines with subtle sheen. Hand-stitched waistbands and precisely finished hems complete the construction.
Pressing technique: Mohair requires careful pressing with moderate heat and minimal pressure. Excessive pressing can flatten the fabric's characteristic surface, whilst insufficient pressing fails to set seams properly.
Throughout construction, our tailors showcase mohair's distinctive lustre whilst creating garments that provide exceptional fit, comfort, and longevity.
Why Mohair Excels for Business and Formal Wear
Mohair's unique properties make it ideally suited for situations demanding impeccable appearance.
Visual impact: Mohair's natural lustre creates sophisticated presence that commands attention in business and formal settings.
Wrinkle resistance: Mohair's resilience means suits maintain crisp appearance throughout long days, recovering from compression better than most fabrics.
Durability: Mohair suits withstand demanding wear whilst maintaining their appearance far longer than comparable fabrics—an excellent long-term investment.
Professional appearance: The subtle sheen creates refined elegance appropriate for executive environments and formal occasions.
Easy maintenance: Mohair's smooth surface naturally repels dirt and dust, whilst the fabric's resilience means less frequent pressing.
Styling Your Mohair Three-Piece Suit
The mohair-blend three-piece suit offers sophisticated styling opportunities that showcase its lustrous character.
For gentlemen: Mid-grey or charcoal mohair blends pair beautifully with crisp white shirts for classic business elegance. Choose silk ties in complementary tones—burgundy, navy, or forest green. Black shoes create formal sophistication. Add a silk pocket square for refined finishing.
For ladies: A navy mohair-blend three-piece suit creates powerful, sophisticated presence perfect for executive environments. Style with silk blouses in white, cream, or soft colours. The tailored waistcoat adds structure and formality.
Occasion versatility: Mohair's lustrous quality makes it particularly suitable for important meetings, presentations, formal events, and occasions requiring distinguished appearance.
Seasonal wear: Medium-weight mohair blends work beautifully across three seasons, whilst heavier weights excel in autumn and winter.
Caring for Your Mohair Investment
Proper care ensures your mohair-blend suit maintains its lustrous beauty for decades.
- Brush regularly with a soft-bristled brush to remove surface dust
- Allow rest between wears to let fibres recover their natural resilience
- Professional cleaning when necessary using specialist techniques
- Gentle pressing by professionals who understand mohair's characteristics
- Proper storage on shaped wooden hangers in breathable garment bags
- Avoid over-pressing which can flatten mohair's characteristic surface
- Rotate wear to extend garment life
With proper care, a mohair-blend suit serves you for 20-25 years or more, maintaining its lustrous appearance and structural integrity throughout its life.
Your Mohair Journey Begins
When you commission a bespoke mohair-blend three-piece suit from A Hand Tailored Suit, you're investing in a garment that combines visual brilliance with exceptional performance.
We source our mohair blends from the world's finest mills, selecting fabrics that offer the perfect balance of lustre, drape, and durability. Our tailors understand mohair's unique properties, creating suits that showcase the fabric's distinctive beauty whilst providing exceptional fit and comfort.
Whether you choose sophisticated mid-grey, distinguished charcoal, or refined navy, your mohair-blend suit will become your signature garment for important occasions—always elegant, always impressive, always extraordinary.
Ready to experience the lustrous elegance of bespoke mohair? Visit A Hand Tailored Suit to explore our mohair collection and begin creating your perfect three-piece suit.
"PEOPLE WILL STARE. MAKE IT WORTH THEIR WHILE" - HARRY WINSTON -
A Hand Tailored Suit, the bespoke tailoring company offering you a slice of London’s Savile Row, for a cut of the cost.
If you have a special event or wedding to attend, an autumn gathering, or a cozy office fall celebration, we can create a unique bespoke ensemble just for you. From hand-crafted wool and tweed jackets to custom shirts, corduroy pieces, and merino wool tailored trousers perfect for the season’s crisp air.
Get in touch with our talented tailoring team today.
You can either design online or book in with one of our talented tailoring team. All garments are hand-made to fit your unique body pattern & size.