The Art of Caring for Your Bespoke Hand-Made Suit: A Complete Guide
When you invest in a bespoke hand-tailored suit, you're not just purchasing clothing—you're acquiring a masterpiece of craftsmanship that deserves exceptional care. At A Hand Tailored Suit, each garment is meticulously crafted using traditional techniques, premium fabrics, and countless hours of skilled labour. Understanding how to properly maintain your investment will ensure it remains pristine for decades to come.
The Golden Rule: Less is More with Dry Cleaning
A hand-made suit should only be dry cleaned approximately 3-4 times per year, even with regular wear.
This might surprise you, but excessive dry cleaning is one of the most damaging things you can do to a bespoke garment. Here's why:
- Chemical Exposure: Dry cleaning solvents, while effective at removing stains, gradually break down natural fibres and weaken the fabric structure
- Loss of Natural Oils: Fine wool fabrics contain natural lanolin oils that provide resilience and lustre—repeated cleaning strips these away
- Structural Stress: The cleaning process, pressing, and handling can stress hand-sewn seams and delicate canvas interlinings
- Colour Fading: Repeated chemical exposure can dull the rich colours of premium fabrics
When Should You Dry Clean?
Reserve professional dry cleaning for these occasions:
- Visible stains that cannot be spot-treated
- After wearing in smoky or heavily polluted environments
- Once per season as a refresh (spring, summer, autumn, winter)
- Before long-term storage
Daily Care: The Foundation of Longevity
Between those quarterly dry cleaning appointments, proper daily maintenance will keep your suit looking impeccable.
Brushing: Your Suit's Best Friend
After each wear, use a quality clothes brush with natural bristles:
- Brush in downward strokes following the fabric's grain
- Pay special attention to shoulders, lapels, and trouser cuffs where dust accumulates
- This removes surface dirt, dust, and prevents particle buildup that causes premature wear
- Brushing also lifts the fabric nap, maintaining the suit's fresh appearance
Steaming: Gentle Wrinkle Release
For minor wrinkles:
- Use a handheld garment steamer rather than an iron
- Hold the steamer 6-8 inches away from the fabric
- Never press the steamer directly against the suit
- Steam refreshes fibres and releases odours naturally
- Allow the suit to hang and dry completely before wearing or storing
The 24-Hour Rest Rule
Never wear the same suit two days in a row. Wool fibres need time to recover their shape and release moisture absorbed from your body. Rotate between suits to extend their lifespan significantly.
Proper Storage: Where Magic Happens
How you store your bespoke suit between wears is just as important as how you clean it.
The Right Hanger Makes All the Difference
- Invest in quality wooden hangers with broad, contoured shoulders
- Avoid wire hangers at all costs—they distort shoulder shape
- Cedar wood hangers offer dual benefits: proper support and natural moth deterrence
- Ensure the hanger width matches your jacket's shoulder span
Breathable Protection
Breathable garment bag protecting suit
- Use breathable cotton or linen garment bags, never plastic
- Plastic traps moisture, leading to mildew and musty odours
- Breathable bags protect from dust while allowing air circulation
- Leave the bag partially open in your wardrobe for optimal ventilation
Natural Protection: Cedar Wood & Lavender
Moths and other fabric-eating insects are the natural enemy of fine wool garments. Protect your investment with these natural deterrents:
Cedar Wood Benefits
- Natural Moth Repellent: Cedar oil is toxic to moth larvae and repels adult moths
- Moisture Absorption: Cedar naturally absorbs excess humidity, preventing mildew
- Pleasant Aroma: Provides a subtle, masculine scent to your wardrobe
- Long-Lasting: Cedar blocks can be lightly sanded annually to refresh their potency
How to Use: Place cedar blocks, rings, or hangers throughout your wardrobe. Position blocks on shelves near hanging suits and in drawers with folded garments.
Lavender Pouches
- Insect Deterrent: Moths, silverfish, and other pests dislike lavender's strong scent
- Natural Freshness: Keeps your wardrobe smelling clean and pleasant
- Chemical-Free: Unlike mothballs, lavender is non-toxic and safe
- Aromatherapy Bonus: The calming scent enhances your dressing experience
How to Use: Hang lavender sachets from hangers, place them in jacket pockets, or tuck them into garment bags. Replace every 3-6 months for optimal effectiveness.
Creating the Perfect Wardrobe Environment
Your wardrobe environment significantly impacts garment longevity:
Climate Control
- Temperature: Store suits in a cool environment (15-20°C ideal)
- Humidity: Maintain 45-55% relative humidity—too dry causes brittleness, too humid encourages mildew
- Light: Keep suits away from direct sunlight, which fades colours and weakens fibres
- Air Circulation: Ensure adequate ventilation to prevent mustiness
Organization Tips
- Space Suits Adequately: Allow 2-3 inches between hanging garments for air circulation
- Separate by Season: Rotate seasonal suits to reduce overcrowding
- Empty Pockets: Remove items from pockets to prevent distortion and stretching
- Trouser Care: Hang trousers by the cuffs using trouser hangers to maintain crease
Spot Treatment: First Line of Defense
When accidents happen, immediate action prevents permanent staining:
- Blot, Don't Rub: Gently blot liquid spills with a clean, absorbent cloth
- Work from Outside In: Prevent the stain from spreading
- Cool Water Only: For water-safe fabrics, use cool water and mild soap
- Professional Help: For oil-based stains or delicate fabrics, consult your dry cleaner immediately
Long-Term Storage Guidelines
If storing a suit for an extended period:
- Clean First: Always dry clean before long-term storage
- Use Acid-Free Tissue: Stuff sleeves and body with acid-free tissue to maintain shape
- Breathable Container: Store in a cotton garment bag or acid-free box
- Cedar and Lavender: Double up on natural protection
- Check Periodically: Inspect every few months and air out briefly
- Climate Controlled: Store in a temperature and humidity-controlled environment
The Investment Perspective
A bespoke hand-tailored suit from A Hand Tailored Suit represents significant investment—both financially and in the artisan hours required to create it. With proper care:
- Your suit can last 20-30 years or more
- The fabric maintains its lustre and drape
- Hand-sewn details remain intact
- The garment continues to fit perfectly
- Your cost-per-wear becomes remarkably economical
Final Thoughts
Caring for your bespoke suit isn't complicated—it simply requires understanding and respect for the craftsmanship involved. By limiting dry cleaning to 3-4 times annually, implementing daily maintenance routines, storing properly with cedar and lavender protection, and creating an optimal wardrobe environment, you ensure your hand-tailored masterpiece remains as stunning as the day you first wore it.
Remember: a well-cared-for bespoke suit doesn't just look better—it becomes a trusted companion for life's most important moments, developing character and patina that only comes with time and proper stewardship.
At A Hand Tailored Suit, we craft each garment with meticulous attention to detail using traditional Savile Row techniques. Let us create your next bespoke masterpiece.
"PEOPLE WILL STARE. MAKE IT WORTH THEIR WHILE" - HARRY WINSTON -
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