As we reach the end of January and prepare for another busy fashion month (beginning with Copenhagen Fashion Week between 1st - 4th February), we are first treated to some of the most artistic and eye-catching designs in fashion with Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week (24th - 27th January 2022). There have been some gorgeous designs on the runway from this week; but one show that caught the attention of many was Chanel's Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection (taking place on 25th January 2022) - and the opening was just as unique.
To open the show, Charlotte Casiraghi (Monégasque writer, journalist, model, equestrian and daughter of Princess Caroline of Hanover) rode down the runway on her noble steed called Kuskus. As she was riding, the recent Chanel ambassador sported a classic Chanel tweed look that glistened under the spotlight in such an elegant yet significant way. The theme for the collection was to show how versatile the classic Chanel tweed look can be, as creative director of Chanel, Virginia Viard, and artist Xavier Veilhan, sought out to convey just that: it was a highlight of couture week. Once Casiraghi and her horse exited the runway, the models appeared and on stage first was Adut Akech.
It epitomises the signature look Chanel is known for, as Adut modelled a matching tweed and jacket set in a soft navy blue shade. The signature collarless jacket was finished with 3/4 length sleeves and the rounded shoulders soften the impact of the tailoring. On the front of the jacket are four curved patch pockets embellished with blue and silver buttons, the same buttons on the five-button fastening. The trousers are straight-legged with the hem just long enough to see the Chanel heel toe pointing through the front. This look was elegant, and paved the way for the rest of the looks to come.
Feminine, elegance and gracefulness are words to describe the styles on the runway for Chanel's couture show, as well as a tweed haven. Like already mentioned, tweed is heavily associated with the Chanel suit and it wasn't missing from the outfits at all. Above are five different looks with five different tweeds, varying from a combination of green and creams, red and blues running through the weaves to enhance its appearance more, contrasting the more minimal and subtle cream and white jackets on display. With a couple maintaining the four-pocket look, there was certainly a modern twist, especially with the cropped cream jacket worn over a chiffon white dress. It was a pairing of the vintage with the new, the 1920's with the 2020's as the jacket notch lapels were curved and the shoulders given the epaulette finish.
Along with the summery colour palette of the collection were a few monochrome looks, some with a darker colour palette that would work as an all-year round piece. The first image shows a very short black cropped jacket, almost bolero length, finished with a lovely soft shoulder line and three silver buttons placed close together, whilst the second look is a striped black and white tweed jacket styled with its matching maxi-length skirt. A checkered greyscale look is made up of a jacket and matching split skirt down the centre, the contrasting pattern styled underneath. Patterned cloths are seen throughout the collection, from checks to stripes, even through the textures of a one-colour attire; but some pieces such as the last look above bring it back to an element of chic Chanel couture. With the signature four patch pockets on the front, the jacket has a soft padded shoulder line that falls to a fitted waist and flare to the hem and of course, the collarless neckline.
The silhouette of this jacket was common throughout the collection, with a dark blue modelled including a soft pastel pink, lilac and a classic white with a more fluffy texture. Each feature a decorative trim around the collar, down the centre front on across the tops of the pockets either sparkling or a matte finish as is featured on the lilac piece. The balance of the soft shoulders (either with raglan sleeves or standard) to the fitted waist is matched perfectly with the subtle flare of the jacket out to the hem, again capturing the beautiful and refined silhouette the Chanel suit has delivered over the years. The touch of modern style is mirrored through the low V-neck on the lilac piece and the additions of the black bows on the waist of the white jacket, providing that garment with the illusion of a jacket fitted to the waist. The cuffs are elegantly finished too, either designed with a turned up cuff or created with a button placement, such as the pastel pink with its three silver buttons on the cuffs set apart from each other.
The couture collection maintained the fashion house's reputation of class and grace, qualities which Chanel are renowned for in its ladieswear. With combining traditional silhouettes with the tailoring of today, it delivered a range that is timeless whilst remaining versatile. There were some other pieces that were just a perfect balance of tailoring and delicate pieces, including wide leg trousers and delicate lace blouses. If you missed it, watch the full show below.
Make sure to check back and view the latest from the catwalks in the upcoming February fashion month on our blog, including more from Paris SS22 Haute Couture Fashion Week!
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