Chloé Spring/Summer 2027 – When Savile Row Meets Parisian Femininity
Paris Fashion Week | Spring/Summer 2027
There are few fashion houses that understand the relationship between tailoring and femininity quite like Chloé.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Creative Director Chemena Kamali returned to one of the most fascinating chapters in the house's history: Chloé's late-1990s relationship with legendary Savile Row tailor Edward Sexton.
The result?
A collection where elongated tailoring, three-piece suits and sculpted jackets meet lace, lingerie, satin, embroidery and Chloé's unmistakable sense of romantic ease.
It is structured.
But never stiff.
Feminine.
But never overly delicate.
And, for Off The Cuff, particularly exciting.
Because this season, tailoring isn't simply part of the Chloé wardrobe – it is one of its defining languages.
The Chloé Woman, Recut
Founded by Gaby Aghion in 1952, Chloé was created around the idea of freeing women from the formality of traditional couture.
That spirit remains central to the house.
But Kamali has increasingly demonstrated that freedom doesn't mean abandoning structure.
Instead, it can mean finding a way for structure and movement to coexist.
Spring/Summer 2027 takes that idea further.
The collection revisits Chloé's sartorial heritage while giving it a distinctly contemporary proportion.
The result is a wardrobe that feels simultaneously polished and effortless.
Enter Edward Sexton
For anyone interested in tailoring, the Edward Sexton connection is perhaps the most fascinating part of this collection.
During the late 1990s, the celebrated British tailor joined Chloé's atelier as a tailoring expert.
Sexton was already famous for redefining British men's tailoring during the late 1960s and 1970s, creating powerful silhouettes for clients including The Beatles and Mick Jagger.
His approach brought stronger proportions and a distinctly Savile Row sensibility into Chloé's feminine vocabulary.
Kamali has now revisited that chapter.
And the results are unmistakable.
The Three-Piece Suit Returns
One of the collection's strongest statements is the return of the three-piece suit.
But this isn't the traditional three-piece suit as we might imagine it.
The proportions have been refined.
The jacket is elongated.
The waistcoat becomes part of the silhouette.
And the tailoring is styled alongside pieces that introduce softness and sensuality.
This creates a fascinating tension.
Suiting meets lingerie.
Savile Row meets Paris.
Structure meets softness.
And that contrast is exactly what makes the collection work.
The Elongated Jacket
The jacket is arguably the star of the collection.
Rather than relying on the short, sharply cropped proportions that have dominated some contemporary womenswear, Kamali embraces length.
The elongated jacket creates a continuous line through the body.
It lengthens the silhouette.
It creates movement.
And it gives the tailoring a distinctly sophisticated quality.
For bespoke tailoring, this is an important reminder of just how powerful jacket length can be.
A few centimetres can completely alter the personality of a suit.
Small Hourglass Jackets
At the opposite end of the spectrum, Kamali also explores small hourglass jackets.
Here the body becomes the focal point.
The waist is defined.
The shoulder is controlled.
And the jacket follows the natural shape of the wearer.
It creates an elegant contrast with the longer, more relaxed tailoring elsewhere in the collection.
Two different approaches.
One philosophy.
The cut should create the silhouette.
Micro Riding Coats
Another standout is the micro riding coat.
The equestrian influence is subtle but unmistakable.
Shorter proportions create a sharp, almost cropped architectural shape, while the styling places the garment within Chloé's softer, more romantic world.
It's another example of Kamali's ability to combine seemingly opposing references.
The riding coat suggests discipline.
The styling suggests freedom.
Grey, Pinstripes and the Language of Savile Row
The tailoring palette is deliberately sophisticated.
Grey mélange wool.
White pinstripes.
Black and white accents.
These are fabrics and colours that immediately communicate sartorial tradition.
But Chloé refuses to let them become conventional.
The suits are paired with lace-up waistcoats, cropped lingerie-inspired tops and flowing pieces.
Suddenly, the pinstripe suit feels entirely different.
The cloth may belong to Savile Row.
The attitude belongs to Chloé.
Structure Meets Softness
This is perhaps the defining idea of the collection.
A structured jacket is paired with a delicate lace piece.
A tailored waistcoat sits alongside flowing fabric.
A crisp pinstripe is softened by lingerie-inspired styling.
A riding coat meets romantic detailing.
The juxtaposition creates a wardrobe that feels both sensual and sophisticated.
And it demonstrates something that bespoke tailoring has always understood:
contrast can create balance.
The Romance of Lace
If tailoring provides the structure, lace provides the emotion.
Black lace galons and delicate trimmings appear throughout the collection, giving the tailoring a more intimate character.
Rather than treating lace purely as decoration, Kamali uses it to soften the edges of structured garments.
The effect is subtle.
The tailoring remains powerful.
But the femininity is never lost.
Broderie Anglaise
Another important element of the wider Spring/Summer 2027 collection is broderie anglaise.
Kamali applies the traditional needlework technique across crisp cottons, chiffon and organza, while the distinctive eyelet details also appear across accessories and boots.
It introduces a distinctly summer quality.
Light.
Airy.
Decorative.
And very Chloé.
Against the sharper tailoring, it creates another layer of contrast.
The Neckline as a Design Tool
Kamali has spoken about the importance of the neckline when developing a silhouette.
That thinking is particularly evident this season.
Sweetheart.
Boatneck.
Scoop neck.
Off-the-shoulder.
The neckline becomes one of the main ways the collection balances the severity of tailoring with softness and sensuality.
It is a reminder that tailoring doesn't stop at the jacket.
What sits underneath can completely change how that jacket is perceived.
Deborah Turbeville's Influence
The visual framework for the collection comes from the evocative photography of Deborah Turbeville.
Turbeville's images were known for their atmospheric quality, often favouring emotion, intimacy and suggestion over conventional fashion photography.
That sensibility feeds directly into the collection.
The clothes don't appear overly polished.
Instead, they feel lived in.
Slightly mysterious.
Romantic.
Almost nostalgic.
Chloé describes the collection as occupying a space between memory and reality, with emotion suggested rather than explicitly explained.
Effortless Femininity
For all the tailoring, this isn't a collection about power dressing in the traditional sense.
It doesn't feel corporate.
It doesn't feel rigid.
It doesn't feel like menswear simply transferred onto a woman's body.
Instead, the tailoring is part of a broader conversation about femininity.
The suit can be sensual.
The waistcoat can be delicate.
The jacket can be strong without becoming severe.
And the three-piece suit can be just as romantic as a flowing dress.
What Can Bespoke Tailoring Take From Chloé SS27?
1. Don't Underestimate the Waistcoat
A waistcoat can completely change the balance of a three-piece suit.
It can be structured, fitted, relaxed or deliberately contrasting.
2. Experiment With Jacket Length
Longer jackets create elegance and a stronger vertical line.
Shorter jackets can emphasise the waist and create a more sculpted silhouette.
3. Pinstripes Don't Have to Be Corporate
The right styling can completely change the personality of a pinstripe cloth.
4. Contrast Creates Character
Pairing structured tailoring with softer textures creates depth.
5. Feminine Doesn't Mean Fragile
A beautifully tailored garment can be powerful and sensual at the same time.
6. Heritage Can Be Reinterpreted
Chloé has looked back to its relationship with Edward Sexton without simply recreating the past.
That's perhaps the most important lesson.
Heritage is most useful when it becomes inspiration rather than imitation.
The Off The Cuff Take
Chloé Spring/Summer 2027 is an unusually interesting collection for anyone who loves tailoring.
Because underneath the lace, lingerie, broderie anglaise and romantic styling is an extremely serious sartorial foundation.
Edward Sexton's influence.
Savile Row proportions.
Three-piece suits.
Elongated jackets.
Pinstripes.
Hourglass construction.
Riding coats.
It is tailoring with a distinctly Chloé attitude.
And that is what makes it work.
For Off The Cuff, the biggest takeaway is the relationship between structure and softness.
A suit doesn't have to become masculine simply because it is sharply cut.
A strong shoulder can still be elegant.
A waistcoat can still be sensual.
A pinstripe can still be romantic.
And a beautifully constructed jacket can provide the perfect foundation for almost anything.
Watch Chloé Spring/Summer 2027
Watch the full Chloé Spring/Summer 2027 collection from Paris Fashion Week:
Watch Chloé Spring/Summer 2027 on YouTube
Off The Cuff
Chloé's Spring/Summer 2027 collection proves that tailoring doesn't have to choose between precision and femininity.
It can have both.
And when the influence of Savile Row is combined with the effortless spirit of Parisian fashion?
That's when things get particularly interesting.
A Little Off The Cuff…
Chloé has brought Savile Row tailoring, lingerie, lace and romantic femininity together for Spring/Summer 2027.
At A Hand Tailored Suit, we're completely on board.
Although we're still trying to work out how to explain to our cutters that “more lace” is now a legitimate tailoring instruction.
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— Off The Cuff A Hand Tailored Suit ✂️
