Day 1 at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2022/23 - A Hand Tailored Suit

Day 1 at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2022/23

Haute Couture Fashion Week is where the most prestigious and famous names in the fashion industry take to the runways and showcase some of the most beautiful, artistic pieces we can expect to see. We can always expect some of the most luxurious cloths to be used, a vast amount of embellishment and beading transformed into breathtaking pieces. The fashion week began yesterday (4th July 2022) and already, it has delivered with jaw-dropping pieces with some elements of tailoring included in the Schiaparelli and Dior collections. Here's a closer look at both these shows.

Schiaparelli

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Runway

The Schiaparelli Haute Couture collection was one of the first to take to the Parisian runways yesterday, and it certainly kicked off the week in jaw-dropping style. The outfits were heavily focused on the contrasting structures between the boxy padded shoulders and the corsets cinched on the waist. The draping, ruching and gathering of the luxurious cloths only enhanced the couture nature and the high-class elegance it displayed. The accessorising of the wicker straw hats and the bold floral displays that were seen across of a few of the looks was simply carrying through summer into Autumn/Winter, and making a statement not to be missed.

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The brightness of the flowers wasn't included in all of the outfits from this collection; but instead, a few focused on the use of delicate embroidery and really focused on the lines and silhouettes. This look in particular was a prime example of such features, with the model wearing a cropped black jacket with the collection's signature boxy shoulders and long sleeves. The neckline is flat in a crew style which allows extra focus on the embellished appliqués, with the shadow created from the black wide-brimmed hat creating a very powerful look. Just as the cinched waists through the corsets work very well with the fitted skirts, the impact was as strong with a trouser ensemble like the second look above displays: a velvet piece with a marble-design underbust corset to contrast that strong shoulder line once more.

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The use of gold embellishment or embroidery automatically lifts the garment into a world of luxury, and for Haute Couture week, this look was exactly that. The elegance was captured through the soft crew neckline once more, enhanced through the boxy shoulders and the fitted lines leading to the waist; but to have one half of the dress completely filled with 3D gold elements was stunning. The centre fastenings were also gold with the curved edge facing outwards towards the plain side of the garment.

Dior

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Runway

The historical vibe behind the Dior Haute Couture collection this season was certainly evident through its folklore and medieval-inspired designs, featured heavily of long-length dresses and coats that were beautiful in print and pattern. These five coats were just a few on the runway with a muted colour scheme that was enhanced through bold and vivid prints, just as the second flared blue coat and fifth silver/black conveys. In contrast, the first coat above in this soft grey colour had this delicate feel about it through the soft crew neckline and the embroidery that fell from the shoulders to the sleeves. The third coat was outlined through the symmetrical embellished beading which gives more emphasis to the curved corner of the collar into the centre front. This silhouette was common throughout the coats; but look four showcased a long wrap coat with dropped shoulder seams, wide collar and lapels with its structure made prominent through the trim outlining the silver brocade.

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The Dior short jackets also followed the shape of curved edges leading down from the crew neck into the centre front, before finishing with a straight line on the hem. They each differed in design, some constructed with a heavy pattern as the first grey jacket above shows, whilst others were kept simplistic in style just as the third jacket displays, finished with frog fastenings in the centre. The second jacket was slightly different in texture too as the hems on the jacket body and sleeves looked to be frayed or made with frills to replicate the woven design of the main cloth. The final piece has a delicate print detail bordering the centre front to give this light grey garment a bit of definition against the plain grey dress bodice underneath.

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The use of check fabrics for Autumn/Winter cloths is always a popular choice and has been a traditional one at that, so to see a variety of plaids in the Dior collection added a bit of edge to the attires, whilst not veering away from the elegance it exhumed. The soft pastel colours within the first look above were juxtaposed by the sharpness and rough edges of the plaid check itself, whilst the others (red plaid and yellow plaid) were well defined; yet they were made elegant and more refined through the white lace appliqué added to the last outfit above, or the styling of a gathered long-sleeved blouse underneath the yellow plaid dress.

It's certainly set to be an exciting week for the rest of Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris. Here a just a few other stunning collections you may have missed from the opening day, all showing lovely examples of tailoring too.

Fovari - Runway

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Georges Hobeika

Which collection caught your eye the most? Make sure to check back on our blog for more from the ongoing Haute Couture Fashion Week AW22/23 in Paris, and catch up with the latest runways from the menswear season!

Feeling inspired for your next show-stopper suit? Get in touch with our tailoring team today!

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