It was the final day of Haute Couture Fashion Week in the French capital of Paris on Thursday (7th July 2022), bringing to an end another successful week delivering some more stunning couture looks. Let's take at a couple of shows which took to the runway on the closing day, particularly at some of the inspirational tailoring.
The collection of ArdAzAei was varied in silhouettes, from dresses with an asymmetric hem and floral ruffles, to sharp tailored suits like these two above that convey such delicacy through the choice of cloths. The first two-piece suit is a soft periwinkle shade with a subtle blue hue behind it, cleverly picked out through the blues included in the botanical and floral print. The peak lapels are finished to a very sharp point, constructed with thin double jet pockets situated either side of the centre front which itself, is fastened with just the one button on the waist point. The shoulders are certainly defined through the padding, curving up ever so slightly to mirror the silky texture of the suit. The jacket body is elongated thanks to the tall notch, whilst the fabric of the trousers are able to show off their graceful movement down the runway well. The second suit is similar with the shoulderline and silhouette of the trousers; but this mauve piece is instead designed with notch lapels and two flapped pockets with a two-button double-breasted front.
The suiting continued on the runway with this sophisticated look taking to the spotlight. The model donned a black two-piece with a wrap-front jacket and straight-leg trousers, featuring the collection's signature padding on the shoulders. Peak lapels aided in emphasising the structure across the top line, with the arm seam angling into the fitted body and into the wrap buckle across the waist. This in turn created the asymmetric hem and the double jet pockets to sit on different levels, giving this suit a bit of edge. The trousers were sharp on the front thanks to the centre creases whilst finished with a contrasting white side stripe on the outer edge for a sporty twist to what could be, an evening suit.
From suits to long-length coats, these also were two stand-out pieces that fitted in with the collection well and displayed an 80's feel to the tailoring. The first overcoat is a cornflower blue shade with boxy, padded shoulders leading into refined sleeves. The collar is cut in a contrasting satin/silk leading into wide peak lapels and down into a statement centre front line, whilst the textured blue/purple flowers create an elegant touch to this statement silhouette. Underneath is a white buttoned shirt worn open collar and tucked into white straight-leg trousers, a style that was similar in the second coating look above too. Here, the model sports a black open collar shirt tucked into a pair of black trousers with sharp centre creases down the front, decorated with a belt across the waistband. This coat also features peak lapels and the same contrasting collar and shoulderline; but this piece includes a rather structural, geometric design on the one side. It's further decorated with pink/blue/purple embroidery to soften the sharpness of these diagonal lines, transforming this simple ensemble into a powerful number.
The FENDI Couture collection was one filled with sheer fabrics beautifully decorated with glittering embellishment and beading to create garments that are simple in shape, some long in length, but captivating in the spotlight. To break up the variety on show for the couture week, a few tailored pieces took to the runway. This cut and shape of the jacket was seen across a few other pieces to create quite an edgy outfit, almost combining one side of a jacket with an overcoat. The one half was a cropped length, secured in the centre with a hidden fastening that sat at the bottom of the contrasting peak lapels and collar. The gold and beige pattern was seen in a few other pieces, used here to create statement lapels and stand out against the small micro polka dot section. The shoulders are relaxed, leading into a looser fit on the sleeves and a longer one at that on the side with the long hem. The trousers are high-waisted with pockets in the sides and a relaxed cut with a floor-length hem.
Sometimes a plain weave cloth is all that's needed to create something so chic, just like this particular look in the collection showed. The model donned a nude beige sleeveless coat worn over a pair of matching trousers, accessorised with a matching clutch and gloves. The collar on this garment is of a classic style with a subtle amount of padding added to the shoulders to create a distinctive line. Across the waist is a tied knot detail positioned off-centre which adds soft texture to the piece, leading down into long fabric trails which finishes longer than the coat itself. Just as the asymmetric suit above, the nude beige trousers are wide on the cut and has the hem draping on the floor.
A staple of the Autumn/Winter season in fashion is a camel or tan-coloured coat; yet the FENDI Couture collection delivered a couple of camel pieces in the form of a double-breasted suit and the signature asymmetric blazer/coat combination here. The model's jacket includes tall peak lapels that are very narrow leading down to the hidden fastening on the centre, whilst the collar appears to show a gap in the seam for a bit of an unique twist. The shoulders are relaxed which then continues into the sleeves once more, with the one half falling to almost ankle length at the hem. The top of the trouser waistband sits level with the cropped jacket hem, whilst the trousers themselves are designed with a panelled front leading into the centre creases and again, a draping hem.
It's definitely been a busy and stylish Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris for the next Autumn/Winter season. Here are a few more shows below you may have missed from the closing stages of couture week. Which one was your favourite?
Aelis - Runway
Juana Martin - Runway
Yuima Nakazato - Runway
If you've missed the latest from Haute Couture Fashion Week AW22/23 in Paris or any of the latest runways, check out our blog here, where you can also catch up with the runways from the menswear season too!
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