Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027 – À Fleur de Peau 🌹
Paris Fashion Week | Off The Cuff ✂️
Some fashion collections make a statement.
Others whisper.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Elie Saab chose to whisper — although, inevitably, it did so in silk, lace, embroidery and enough glamour to light up an entire Paris evening.
Titled “À Fleur de Peau” — “close to the skin” —, the collection explores sensuality, femininity and the intimate relationship between the body and clothing.
The inspiration reaches back to the effortless allure of Hollywood icon Jean Harlow, while also drawing on the Elie Saab archive and the house's long-established language of romantic eveningwear.
The result is a collection that feels unmistakably Saab.
Fluid.
Sensual.
Romantic.
And beautifully unapologetic.
Jean Harlow, Reimagined 🎬
Jean Harlow wasn't known for complicated dressing.
Her glamour came from simplicity.
A bias-cut gown.
A bare shoulder.
A liquid satin silhouette.
A flash of skin.
And the unmistakable confidence of somebody who didn't need the clothing to do all the talking.
That attitude provides an intriguing foundation for Elie Saab SS27.
Rather than attempting to recreate 1930s Hollywood literally, the collection takes the idea of Harlow — her languid glamour and effortless sensuality — and translates it into a contemporary wardrobe.
The result is clothing that appears to move almost independently of the wearer.
Dresses skim the body.
Silk falls away from the figure.
Lace reveals rather than conceals.
And embellishment catches the light with every step.
À Fleur de Peau
The collection's title is particularly revealing.
À Fleur de Peau suggests something felt directly against the skin — an emotion, a sensation, a reaction.
That becomes the central idea of the collection.
Clothing isn't being used to create distance from the body.
It is being used to get closer to it.
Silk slips.
Lace trims.
Sheer layers.
Delicate straps.
Asymmetric hems.
Trailing linings.
Everything seems designed to move between concealment and revelation.
And that tension gives the collection its sensuality.
The New Boudoir
One of the strongest themes throughout SS27 is what Elie Saab describes as a new boudoir.
Lingerie-inspired pieces are no longer confined to the bedroom.
They become part of the wardrobe.
Embellished bralettes are paired with matching slips.
Shimmering net skirts are worn with delicate tops.
Corsetry appears beneath flowing layers.
And slip dresses become the foundation for entire looks.
It is a familiar fashion idea, but Saab approaches it through craftsmanship rather than provocation.
The lingerie isn't simply exposed.
It is elevated.
Silk That Moves Like Water
Silk is naturally central to a collection built around fluidity.
Liquid gowns skim the body before falling away into pools of fabric.
Draped wraps cross the torso.
Bias-cut silhouettes follow movement rather than resisting it.
And trailing fabric creates a sense of motion even when the model is standing still.
This is where Elie Saab's understanding of eveningwear becomes particularly apparent.
The dress doesn't simply need to look beautiful from the front.
It needs to move.
It needs to catch the light.
It needs to react to the body.
And it needs to look different from every angle.
Lace, Roses & Romance 🌹
The floral theme arrives in typically romantic Saab fashion.
Roses appear as embroidery and appliqué, winding across lingerie-inspired gowns and delicate fabrics.
But rather than creating an overtly floral collection, the flowers are treated almost like botanical details growing across the garment.
Black lace becomes a canvas for delicate blooms.
Pale pink silk is embroidered with romantic motifs.
Tiny flowers appear against the skin.
The effect is almost botanical.
As though the clothing itself has begun to bloom.
The Colour Palette
The palette reinforces the collection's intimate character.
Blush pink.
Powder blue.
Sage green.
Sand.
Soft ivory.
And, inevitably, black.
These are colours that feel close to the skin.
Nothing is unnecessarily aggressive.
Even when embellishment becomes dramatic, the underlying palette remains soft.
The result is an extraordinarily feminine colour story that feels almost cinematic.
It is the palette of faded Hollywood photographs, morning light and vintage dressing rooms.
Tailoring Meets the Boudoir ✂️
For us at A Hand Tailored Suit, one of the most interesting elements is the way Saab introduces tailoring into this otherwise highly fluid world.
A loose trench is knotted over cascading sheer skirts.
Leather outerwear provides structure against delicate fabrics.
Tailored trousers create a contrast with lingerie-inspired tops.
The collection understands an important principle:
Softness becomes more powerful when placed against structure.
A flowing silk dress can feel even more delicate when paired with a structured jacket.
A lace top becomes more sophisticated when balanced by tailored trousers.
And a soft silhouette can become dramatically more contemporary when given a strong shoulder.
That contrast is equally important in bespoke tailoring.
The Trench Gets Romantic
The trench coat receives a particularly interesting interpretation.
Instead of being worn in its traditional military-inspired manner, it becomes something much softer.
It can be knotted.
Wrapped.
Loosely draped.
Worn over transparent layers.
The familiar trench becomes almost a dressing gown.
And that transformation perfectly captures the philosophy of the collection.
Take something traditionally structured.
Soften it.
Move it.
Allow it to interact with the body.
Suddenly it becomes something entirely different.
Corsetry with a Twist
Corsetry remains an important part of the Saab vocabulary.
But SS27 avoids making it simply about restriction.
Instead, corsets become decorative.
A tiny sprig of flowers might appear against one.
A satin strap slips from a shoulder.
A bolero falls slightly away from the body.
Ruffles soften the edges.
Ribbons and bows introduce a playful element.
The corset becomes less about creating a rigid silhouette and more about framing the body.
That is an important distinction.
The Details Make the Dress
Elie Saab's reputation has been built on detail.
And SS27 doesn't disappoint.
Tiny flowers.
Dewdrop-like embellishment.
Fine embroidery.
Lace edging.
Sequins.
Crystals.
Ribbons.
Bows.
Every detail is designed to catch the eye without overwhelming the overall silhouette.
This is where the difference between decoration and craftsmanship becomes apparent.
Decoration can be added.
Craftsmanship is built in.
The most successful Saab pieces make the two appear inseparable.
A Touch of Daylight
Although eveningwear remains central, the collection doesn't live entirely after dark.
There are pieces designed to bring the Saab language into daytime.
Relaxed tailoring.
Trenches.
Wide trousers.
Layered skirts.
Lightweight separates.
The result is a wardrobe that suggests that glamour doesn't necessarily need an invitation.
A woman can wear a beautifully constructed piece simply because she wants to.
And perhaps that is the most modern element of the collection.
The Accessories
The accessories continue the romantic language.
Sleek heels range from high ballerinas to crossover mules, maintaining the elongated, elegant silhouette.
And then there is the eyewear.
The collection introduces gold-plated monogrammed butterfly frames, adding another cinematic reference to the Saab universe.
It is the sort of accessory that doesn't merely complete an outfit.
It creates a character.
And that is something Elie Saab understands exceptionally well.
Beauty as the Final Detail
The beauty look followed the same romantic philosophy.
Tiny flowers and dewdrop details appeared across the face, creating an almost ethereal finish.
It sounds extravagant.
But visually, it reinforces the central idea.
Nature.
Skin.
Light.
Romance.
The woman becomes almost part of the environment around her.
And that brings us back to À Fleur de Peau.
Everything is intimate.
Nothing is particularly loud.
Yet everything is designed to be noticed.
The Off The Cuff Take ✂️
What makes Elie Saab SS27 interesting is its confidence in beauty.
At a time when many designers are deliberately stripping fashion back, Saab isn't afraid of glamour.
He doesn't apologise for lace.
He doesn't apologise for embroidery.
He doesn't apologise for a beautifully cut evening gown.
And he certainly doesn't apologise for femininity.
But there is a tailoring lesson hidden beneath all that romance.
Structure and softness need one another.
The most beautiful flowing gown still relies on construction.
The most delicate fabric still needs a precise cut.
The perfect drape doesn't happen by accident.
And a beautifully tailored jacket can provide the architecture that allows softer pieces to breathe.
For bespoke tailoring, this is fundamental.
The magic isn't always in adding more.
Sometimes it's in understanding exactly where the garment needs structure — and exactly where it should be allowed to move.
From Paris to the Cutting Table
Elie Saab's Spring/Summer 2027 collection ultimately reminds us why craftsmanship remains so important.
When a garment is beautifully made, it doesn't need to shout.
The cut speaks.
The fabric moves.
The details reveal themselves.
And the wearer becomes the most important part of the design.
That is also the essence of bespoke.
A suit should not overpower the person wearing it.
It should enhance them.
The shoulder should sit naturally.
The sleeve should move comfortably.
The trouser should fall cleanly.
The cloth should complement the wearer.
The details should feel personal.
And, above all, the finished garment should feel as though it belongs to nobody else.
Elie Saab simply expresses that philosophy through silk, lace, flowers and Hollywood glamour.
A Fleur de Peau
There is something wonderfully old-fashioned about the idea that clothing can make you feel beautiful.
Not fashionable.
Not trendy.
Not “on trend”.
Simply beautiful.
Elie Saab's SS27 collection embraces that idea completely.
It looks backwards to Jean Harlow.
It looks inward to the house archive.
And it looks forward through a lighter, more contemporary approach to the boudoir.
The result is a collection that feels romantic without being entirely nostalgic.
Glamorous without being heavy.
And sensual without losing its elegance.
Watch Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027 🎥
Experience “À Fleur de Peau” for yourself and watch the full Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027 runway show from Paris.
Watch Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027 on YouTube
Off The Cuff ✂️
Elie Saab doesn't appear interested in telling us that glamour is dead.
Quite the opposite.
For Spring/Summer 2027, the house gives us silk, lace, roses, corsetry, tailoring and enough Hollywood romance to make Paris feel briefly like a film set.
And perhaps that's the point.
Fashion doesn't always need to challenge us.
Sometimes it simply needs to make us want to get dressed.
A Little Off The Cuff… 😉
At A Hand Tailored Suit, we completely understand the appeal of a beautifully cut garment.
Although if someone arrives at their fitting covered in tiny roses and dewdrops, we'll probably assume they've taken the “close to the skin” brief rather more literally than we intended.
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— Off The Cuff A Hand Tailored Suit ✂️
