Fendi Spring/Summer 2027: Through the Looking Glass at Milan Fashion Week
Fendi | Spring/Summer 2027 | Milan Fashion Week
Fashion has always been fascinated by the relationship between the clothes we wear and the bodies underneath them.
For Fendi Spring/Summer 2027, Maria Grazia Chiuri decided to put that relationship quite literally under the spotlight — or, more accurately, inside a hall of mirrors.
Presented in Milan on 23rd September 2026, Chiuri's latest collection for the Roman house explored the idea of clothing as a “second skin”, looking at the body, sensuality, freedom and the way masculine and feminine dressing can overlap beyond traditional wardrobe rules.
The result was a collection that felt distinctly Italian: glamorous, sensual, playful and occasionally a little rebellious.
And, naturally, there was plenty for the tailoring enthusiast to admire.
Through the Looking Glass
Before the first model appeared, the setting had already established the mood.
At the centre of the Fendi show stood a mirrored structure inspired by Italian artist Luciano Fabro's Cubo di specchi — Mirror Cube.
Rather than simply providing an impressive backdrop, the mirrors became part of the collection's conversation.
As models moved through the space, their reflections multiplied, while the audience could see itself alongside the clothes.
Suddenly, the act of watching a fashion show became part of the show itself.
It was an appropriately clever setting for a collection asking us to think about how we see ourselves and how clothing changes that perception.
The Body as the Starting Point
Chiuri began with something that normally remains hidden.
Underwear.
Lingerie-inspired pieces became an integral part of the outer wardrobe, with lace, embroidery, delicate fabrics and visible underpinnings appearing throughout the collection.
Bras were deliberately revealed beneath dresses and tailoring, while bodysuits, lace-trimmed pieces and flowing silhouettes brought the intimacy of underwear into everyday dressing.
It wasn't simply about revealing more skin.
Instead, Chiuri appeared interested in the idea of allowing the wearer to decide how much they wanted to reveal.
That distinction gave the collection its sense of freedom.
Raffaella Carrà: The Italian Icon
One of the strongest influences behind the collection was an unmistakably Italian one.
Raffaella Carrà.
The legendary singer, actress, television personality and performer became Chiuri's cultural reference point for the season.
Carrà was famous for her extraordinary stage presence, glamorous costumes and fearless approach to self-expression. Chiuri described her as an important feminist figure whose relationship with clothing was particularly free.
That influence could be seen throughout the collection.
There were sequins, lace, plunging silhouettes, shimmering fabrics, visible lingerie and 1970s-inspired glamour.
The soundtrack also drew upon Carrà's music, reinforcing the connection between the collection and one of Italy's most recognisable cultural icons.
It was less nostalgia for nostalgia's sake and more a celebration of Carrà's attitude.
Dress up. Have fun. Own the room.
Tailoring Gets a Little More Dangerous
For us at A Hand Tailored Suit, the tailoring elements were particularly interesting.
Chiuri's tailoring wasn't presented as a rigid uniform.
Instead, classic menswear references were loosened and placed into conversation with lingerie, lace and flowing fabrics.
There were black tailored jackets, menswear-inspired pieces and structured outerwear, often styled against considerably softer garments.
This created one of the collection's most successful contrasts:
hard against soft.
Structured against fluid.
Masculine against feminine.
Formal against intimate.
It's an approach that works beautifully in bespoke tailoring too.
A sharply cut jacket doesn't necessarily need to be accompanied by a conventional shirt and tie.
Change the fabric.
Change the styling.
Change the proportions.
Suddenly, the same principles of tailoring can create something completely different.
Lace, Silk & Leather
Fabric was another major part of the collection's personality.
Delicate lace and silk appeared alongside tougher materials, animal prints, leather and textured outerwear.
The juxtaposition prevented the collection from becoming overly romantic.
A delicate lace piece could sit underneath something considerably more substantial.
A soft silk garment could be contrasted with leather.
A flowing dress could be given structure through a tailored jacket.
Fendi's own description of the collection talks about garments acting like a second skin — porous to the emotions and experiences of everyday life.
The fabrics certainly supported that idea.
Some pieces appeared almost weightless.
Others brought considerably more visual and physical presence.
The Return of Italian Glamour
There was a definite sense of 1970s Italian glamour running through the collection.
Long dresses.
Fur.
Sequins.
Lace.
Animal print.
Low-cut shirts.
Statement accessories.
And plenty of black.
One of the more striking looks combined a flowing silhouette with a dramatic fur element, while other pieces leaned into a more decadent, almost glam-rock aesthetic.
But this wasn't simply vintage dressing recreated for the runway.
The styling kept the collection feeling contemporary.
That balance between history and modernity is one of the reasons Italian fashion continues to have such a strong visual identity.
Men's & Women's Codes Blur
Another interesting element was the way Chiuri approached gender.
Fendi's show didn't treat masculine and feminine wardrobes as completely separate worlds.
Instead, the two shared fabrics, silhouettes and styling references.
Men's shirts could become relaxed and sensual.
Tailoring could be worn alongside lingerie-inspired pieces.
Outerwear could be oversized and dramatic.
And traditionally feminine details could appear without being confined to one particular type of wearer.
Fendi describes the collection as exploring the point where masculine and feminine meet beyond wardrobe stereotypes.
For modern tailoring, that is an increasingly relevant idea.
The best bespoke wardrobe isn't necessarily about following a predefined formula.
It's about creating clothes that work for the individual wearing them.
The Baguette Gets Smaller
Of course, no Fendi collection would be complete without the house's legendary Baguette.
But this season came with a rather amusing development.
Chiuri introduced a new, miniature version designed to hold essentially one modern essential:
your phone.
Because apparently the Baguette didn't need to carry much more than that.
It is wonderfully Fendi.
And perhaps the perfect accessory for a collection that doesn't take itself too seriously.
Clothes That Move
Despite the glamour, one of the most noticeable characteristics of the collection was its sense of movement.
Flowing dresses, lightweight fabrics, fringe and softer silhouettes allowed garments to move naturally around the body.
Even the more structured pieces were often contrasted with something fluid underneath.
That movement matters.
Tailoring can create an incredibly strong silhouette, but the best tailoring should never make someone look as though they've been shrink-wrapped into their own clothes.
The garment needs to move with the wearer.
That principle is just as important in bespoke tailoring as it is on a Milanese runway.
What Can Bespoke Tailoring Take From Fendi SS27?
Perhaps the biggest lesson from Fendi Spring/Summer 2027 is the importance of contrast.
Don't be afraid to combine structure with softness.
Don't assume tailoring has to mean formality.
And don't underestimate what a change of fabric can do to an otherwise familiar silhouette.
A beautifully constructed jacket in a lightweight wool can have an entirely different personality to the same jacket made in a heavier cloth.
A velvet dinner jacket feels completely different from a linen summer jacket.
A traditional navy suit can become something much more contemporary through its cut and styling.
The fundamentals remain the same.
Cut. Construction. Proportion. Cloth.
But the personality is entirely yours.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2027 — The Off The Cuff Take
Maria Grazia Chiuri's latest Fendi collection feels like a celebration of the freedom to dress for yourself.
The mirrored runway, the influence of Raffaella Carrà, the visible lingerie, the relaxed tailoring and the clash of delicate and tougher fabrics all come together around one central idea:
clothing is personal.
It can protect us.
It can reveal us.
It can transform us.
And, occasionally, it can simply make us feel fantastic.
For Fendi Spring/Summer 2027, fashion wasn't presented as a set of rules.
It was presented as a relationship between the garment, the body and the person wearing it.
And perhaps that's the most bespoke idea of all.
Watch the Fendi Spring/Summer 2027 Show
Want to experience the collection for yourself?
Watch the full Fendi Spring/Summer 2027 Milan Fashion Week showcase and see the mirrored runway, Italian glamour, lingerie-inspired styling, tailoring and statement outerwear in motion.
Fendi | Spring/Summer 2027 | Milan Fashion Week
Watch the full Fendi Spring/Summer 2027 show on YouTube
Off The Cuff
From the runways of Milan, London, Paris and New York to the cutting table at A Hand Tailored Suit, Off The Cuff explores the designers, collections, fabrics and ideas shaping contemporary fashion and tailoring.
Because fashion changes every season.
Good tailoring doesn't.
A Witty Footnote…
Fendi gave us mirrors, lace, lingerie, sequins, fur, Italian disco glamour and a handbag so small it can barely carry a phone.
Which means we've finally reached the point in fashion where the handbag has less storage capacity than a bespoke suit jacket.
Gentlemen, please appreciate your pockets.
Visit A Hand Tailored Suit | Book a Consultation | Explore Our Collections
— Off The Cuff A Hand Tailored Suit ✂️
