How to Dry Clean a Bespoke Suit: What You Should Ask Your Dry Cleaner
How to Dry Clean a Bespoke Suit: What You Should Ask Your Dry Cleaner
Your bespoke suit deserves more than a standard dry clean.
You’ve invested in a garment that has been designed around you, cut by hand and individually constructed. So when it comes to cleaning your bespoke suit, jacket, trousers or other hand-made garment, it pays to ask a few questions before handing it over.
At A Hand Tailored Suit, we believe that bespoke tailoring is made to be enjoyed for years — but proper aftercare is an important part of protecting the craftsmanship, shape and structure that went into making your garment.
One of the biggest differences between a quality bespoke jacket and many mass-produced garments is what sits beneath the cloth.
Inside your bespoke jacket: the horsehair canvas
A traditionally constructed bespoke jacket can contain a horsehair canvas interlining.
This is not simply a piece of stiff material hidden inside the jacket. The canvas is carefully incorporated into the construction of the garment to help create its shape, structure, drape and longevity.
Unlike a fused jacket, where an interlining is bonded to the cloth with adhesive, a traditionally canvassed jacket is constructed using layers of materials and stitching.
That means your jacket should be treated as a tailored garment — not simply another item of clothing going through a commercial cleaning process.
High temperatures, inappropriate cleaning methods, excessive pressing or poor handling can potentially affect the cloth, lining, shape and internal construction.
So, before you say "Just dry clean it, please!", there are a few things worth asking.
1. Do you have experience cleaning bespoke or hand-made tailoring?
This should be your first question.
Ask your dry cleaner:
"Do you regularly clean bespoke suits and traditionally constructed jackets?"
A cleaner who understands tailoring will appreciate that the garment may contain natural fibres, canvassing, hand stitching, delicate linings and specialist construction.
If they have experience working with luxury tailoring, even better.
Don't be afraid to explain that your jacket is bespoke and traditionally constructed.
2. Are you familiar with horsehair canvas construction?
This is particularly important when dealing with a traditionally canvassed jacket.
Ask:
"Does your cleaning process take the horsehair canvas and internal construction of the jacket into consideration?"
Your dry cleaner should understand that the internal canvas contributes to the jacket's shape and that the garment needs to be handled appropriately.
It's also worth telling them exactly what the garment is made from. A wool suit, linen jacket, cashmere blend or delicate evening garment may all require different considerations.
3. Does the garment actually need a full dry clean?
This is a question many people don't think to ask.
"Does this garment need a complete dry clean, or can the particular stain or area be treated individually?"
A suit doesn't necessarily need to be professionally cleaned every time it has been worn.
For many garments, sensible everyday care can help reduce the need for frequent cleaning.
After wearing your suit:
- Allow it to air naturally.
- Use a good quality clothes brush to remove surface dust and debris.
- Hang it on a suitable broad-shouldered hanger.
- Give the cloth time to rest between wears.
- Deal with spills or stains promptly.
- Avoid spraying fragrances, deodorants or other products directly onto the cloth.
And remember: airing your suit is not the same as washing it.
4. What cleaning process will you use?
Ask your cleaner:
"What cleaning process will you use on this particular garment?"
Don't be afraid to ask them to explain.
A reputable cleaner should be able to tell you how they intend to handle the garment and whether there are any specific considerations based on the fabric, construction or finish.
If your suit contains particularly delicate cloth, unusual fibres, embroidery, contrasting trims or special detailing, make sure the cleaner knows before the cleaning process begins.
5. Will my jacket be treated individually?
Ask:
"Will my bespoke jacket be handled individually, or will it be processed as part of a large mixed batch?"
Your bespoke jacket is not a commodity garment.
It has been made specifically for you and may contain details that require additional care — from hand stitching and canvassing to specialist buttons, linings and finishing.
Individual attention can make a significant difference when caring for a high-quality garment.
6. How will the jacket be pressed after cleaning?
This is another important question.
Ask:
"How will you press and finish the jacket after cleaning?"
A beautifully constructed jacket can lose some of its character if it is poorly pressed.
The lapels, shoulders, sleeves, pockets and overall silhouette all contribute to the appearance of a tailored jacket.
A knowledgeable cleaner should understand that a bespoke jacket needs to be finished as a tailored garment, rather than simply subjected to aggressive machine pressing.
7. Will you inspect the buttons, lining and trims?
Before handing over your garment, ask:
"Will you check the buttons, lining, trims and other details before cleaning?"
This is particularly useful with older or well-loved garments.
If a button is already loose, a lining has started to pull or a small area of stitching needs attention, it's better to identify it before cleaning rather than afterwards.
8. What should I tell you about stains?
Always point out stains.
Tell the cleaner:
- What the stain is.
- When it happened.
- What caused it, if you know.
- Whether you've already tried to remove it.
- If the garment has any particularly delicate areas.
And here's one important rule:
Don't experiment with household stain removers on your bespoke suit.
That little bottle hiding under the kitchen sink may be fantastic for a white T-shirt.
Your bespoke jacket?
Not the place to conduct chemistry experiments.
9. How will my garment be stored after cleaning?
Ask:
"How will the garment be stored and returned to me?"
Once your garment has been cleaned, it should be protected from unnecessary creasing, moisture and damage while awaiting collection.
When you take it home, remove any unsuitable plastic covering if appropriate, allow the garment to breathe and store it correctly on a quality hanger in a suitable wardrobe.
Your suit has spent a considerable amount of time being carefully made.
It deserves more than being squeezed between two winter coats.
Our Bespoke Dry-Cleaning Checklist
Before handing over your bespoke garment, ask your dry cleaner:
✓ Do you have experience with bespoke tailoring?
✓ Are you familiar with traditionally canvassed jackets?
✓ Do you understand the construction of a horsehair canvas jacket?
✓ What cleaning process will you use?
✓ Does the garment actually require a full clean?
✓ Can individual stains be treated where appropriate?
✓ Will the garment be handled individually?
✓ How will the jacket be pressed and finished?
✓ Will you inspect the buttons, lining and trims?
✓ How will the garment be stored and returned?
If the answers leave you feeling uncertain, ask questions before handing over the garment.
One Last Piece of Advice From Your Tailor
A bespoke garment is an investment in craftsmanship, fit and longevity.
Good aftercare isn't about being precious.
It's about understanding what you've bought.
The finest cloth in the world cannot compensate for poor care, and even the most beautifully constructed bespoke jacket deserves the right treatment throughout its life.
If you're ever unsure about how to care for one of your garments from A Hand Tailored Suit, we're always happy to offer advice.
After all, we didn't spend all that time making your jacket fit you perfectly just to let someone attack it with a hot iron and a bad attitude!
Bespoke today. A lifetime tomorrow.
A Hand Tailored Suit
Hand made. Individually crafted. Made for you.
A Little Note From The Tailor
Your bespoke suit has already been through enough scrutiny — being measured, fitted, pinned, altered and admired.
When it reaches the dry cleaner, make sure it gets VIP treatment too.
Because when you've been custom made, "one size fits all" should never apply to your aftercare.
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