Lacoste Spring/Summer 2027 – Dress Code: No White Required 🎾
Paris Fashion Week | Off The Cuff
There are few fashion houses where sport and style are quite so inseparable.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Lacoste returned to the place where its story feels most at home: Roland-Garros. But rather than presenting a pristine vision of tennis whites, Creative Director Pelagia Kolotouros decided to break the rules.
The message was simple.
Dress Code: No White Required.
And on the famous Philippe Chatrier court, surrounded by the unmistakable terracotta of the Parisian clay, Lacoste transformed the traditional language of tennis into something looser, more individual and considerably more fashion-forward.
This was tenniswear — but not as the rulebook intended.
From the Court to the Catwalk
The setting was impossible to ignore.
The Philippe Chatrier court was covered with clay, while the runway traced an infinity loop across the surface. Rather than simply referencing tennis, Lacoste made the court itself part of the collection.
The red clay became both inspiration and material reference.
It appeared on hems, surfaces and colours, suggesting garments that had actually been worn through a match rather than carefully preserved for the photograph afterwards.
That idea became central to the collection.
Lacoste has always been about movement. René Lacoste famously shortened the sleeves of his tennis shirts in pursuit of greater freedom, comfort and speed — a small act of rebellion that helped create the polo shirt as we know it.
Almost a century later, Kolotouros returned to that same principle.
Clothing should allow you to move.
And, perhaps more importantly, it should allow you to be yourself.
The Polo Gets a New Lease of Life
Naturally, the polo shirt remained at the heart of the collection.
But the familiar Lacoste piqué polo was given considerably more room to breathe.
Oversized proportions, extended sleeves and layered styling pushed the classic sports shirt beyond its traditional boundaries. Some polos were worn over technical jerseys, while others were combined with skirts, tailoring and accessories.
The crocodile remained — but the uniform had been liberated.
There was something particularly interesting about this approach.
Rather than abandoning the house's most recognisable piece in pursuit of novelty, Lacoste took its most famous garment and simply asked:
What happens if we stop treating it like a uniform?
The answer was surprisingly sophisticated.
Tailoring Without the Rules
For us at A Hand Tailored Suit, one of the most interesting elements of the collection was the tailoring.
Lacoste presented soft tailoring that skims rather than constrains the body.
Deep teal overcoats and relaxed suits appeared loose, sometimes belted, with lanyards and flashes of acid yellow introducing an unexpected sporting energy.
The tailoring wasn't about rigid structure or traditional formality.
It was about movement.
Tropical wools were loosened through deconstruction, while softer cottons and washed silks removed some of the ceremony traditionally associated with tailoring.
The result was a wardrobe that sits somewhere between sport, tailoring and everyday Parisian dressing.
And that is where Lacoste has always been particularly clever.
It doesn't need to choose between sport and sophistication.
It can have both.
The Art of Imperfection
One of the collection's strongest ideas was the deliberate embrace of imperfection.
Cottons were garment-dyed and enzyme-washed.
Silks were washed and deliberately less polished.
Technical fabrics were rolled and styled with an effortless quality.
And then there was the clay.
The pristine white tennis uniform was replaced by something much more human — garments marked by movement, heat, effort and the environment in which they were worn.
The clay-stained hems became almost a badge of honour.
Because if your clothes come back from Roland-Garros completely spotless, perhaps you weren't playing hard enough.
A New Tennis Palette 🎾
The traditional Lacoste colour story also received a makeover.
Instead of relying solely on tennis white and court green, the collection explored the colours of the court itself.
Sun-baked clay. Mineral earth tones. Deep teal. Cobalt blue. Acid yellow. Silver.
The palette felt simultaneously natural and futuristic.
Cobalt nylon tracksuits and vivid orange warm-up pieces brought an unmistakable sporting energy, while silver accessories and flashes of acid yellow introduced something more graphic.
The colours worked particularly well against the earth tones.
It was essentially the palette of Roland-Garros after a long afternoon of play — only considerably more stylish.
Tennis, Reinterpreted
The collection also played with the history of tennis.
Lacoste looked back to the 1920s, when players such as Suzanne Lenglen and René Lacoste challenged the established conventions of the sport.
Lenglen famously rejected the restrictive tennis clothing of the period, while Lacoste pursued lighter, more practical clothing that allowed greater freedom of movement.
Almost 100 years later, those same ideas remain relevant.
The difference is that today's tennis court has become a laboratory for fashion.
Lacoste takes sportswear and asks what happens when its practical origins become design opportunities.
The result is a collection that feels less like a tennis uniform and more like a wardrobe inspired by the attitude of tennis.
From Court to Street
Perhaps the biggest success of the collection is that very little feels confined to the sporting arena.
The oversized polo works with tailored trousers.
The soft overcoat could easily sit over a shirt and tie.
The relaxed suiting could be worn with sneakers.
The tracksuit becomes fashion rather than simply training equipment.
And the technical pieces can move seamlessly between the gym, the street and the weekend.
That versatility is particularly relevant to modern tailoring.
The contemporary customer increasingly wants clothing that works harder.
A suit doesn't necessarily need to mean boardroom.
A jacket can be worn with denim.
A tailored trouser can work with knitwear.
And a beautifully cut overcoat can become the most versatile piece in a wardrobe.
Lacoste understands this shift.
The Accessories Take the Court with Them
The tennis references continued through the accessories.
One standout idea was a soft, draped bag inspired by Lacoste's iconic polo shirt and an Irving Penn photograph from 1984, with its diagonal flap echoing the relaxed shape of a piqué collar.
And then there was footwear.
The sculptural ACE-T1 sneaker references the structure of a tennis net, while the collection also transformed the tennis ball into something far more unexpected.
Tennis-ball-inspired heels and a wedge version turned one of the most recognisable objects on the court into a fashion accessory.
It's playful.
It's clever.
And it demonstrates exactly how far a fashion house can push its heritage without losing sight of where it came from.
The Off The Cuff Take ✂️
What makes Lacoste Spring/Summer 2027 particularly interesting is that it doesn't try to make tennis fashionable.
Tennis already is fashionable.
Instead, the collection examines the relationship between uniform and individuality.
A polo shirt is a uniform.
A tennis court has rules.
A suit has conventions.
But fashion has always been at its most interesting when somebody decides to bend those conventions.
For bespoke tailoring, there is a useful lesson here.
The best clothing doesn't simply impose a shape on the wearer.
It works with them.
The shoulder, the sleeve, the trouser, the cloth and the balance of the jacket all need to work together to create movement rather than restriction.
That is where bespoke becomes particularly powerful.
A garment can have structure without feeling stiff.
It can be elegant without feeling formal.
And it can follow tradition while still belonging entirely to the person wearing it.
Lacoste's SS27 collection captures that idea beautifully.
The rules are there. But you don't necessarily have to play by them.
From Roland-Garros to the Cutting Table
Lacoste's Spring/Summer 2027 collection ultimately feels like a celebration of freedom.
Freedom to move.
Freedom to dress differently.
Freedom to get a little clay on the hem.
Freedom to take something familiar and make it your own.
The crocodile remains instantly recognisable, the polo remains unmistakably Lacoste and the references to tennis are everywhere.
But the collection refuses to become nostalgic.
Instead, Pelagia Kolotouros takes the house's sporting DNA and pushes it forward — combining technical fabrics, relaxed tailoring, oversized proportions and a wonderfully imperfect attitude.
And perhaps that is the most appropriate lesson from Roland-Garros.
The best-dressed player isn't necessarily the one following every rule.
It's the one who knows exactly which rules are worth breaking.
Watch Lacoste Spring/Summer 2027 🎥
Experience the complete Lacoste Spring/Summer 2027 runway show from Roland-Garros and see “Dress Code: No White Required” come to life.
Watch the Lacoste Spring/Summer 2027 Show on YouTube
Off The Cuff ✂️
From tennis whites to clay-stained hems, Lacoste has proved that sometimes the best way to respect a dress code is to completely rewrite it.
Although we'd probably still recommend keeping the clay off your bespoke suit.
After all, some stains are fashionable. Others are simply an expensive dry-cleaning bill.
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— Off The Cuff A Hand Tailored Suit ✂️
