London Fashion Week always delivers with unique and eclectic styles that are very much established with the fashion it has delivered over the many years. Over the weekend, the fashion week returned for a 3-day period with a variety of menswear and ladieswear taking to the runways, both in person and digitally. Of course, elements of tailoring were involved, and we kept a close eye on some of the pieces and collections that were showcased during London Fashion Week June 2022. Here are a few of our favourites.
Carlota Barrera
RTW Spring/Summer 2023
The collection very much anticipated Spring ready for what we could see more of next year. The colour palette of the collection was quite soft and pastel-like, the focus very much being around greens and blues, but with a few classic touches of black and white tailored ensembles thrown in to add variety.
The overall collection was a lovely combination of relaxed and more casual tailoring, with a few pieces a little more tailored and a closer fit. This particular ensemble is a soft grey striped double-breasted piece, designed with a four-button front and including the classic flapped pockets below the waist. It comes in slightly at the waist which gives emphasis to the padded shoulders, echoed through the wide lapels to balance out the silhouette. The cut of the trousers are slightly loose on the leg to portray this relaxed side of tailoring, with the hem just brushing the top of the shoes.
The soft and muted colours were matched through the outfits featuring either one or two colours throughout, adding extra detail or adding a subtle pop of colour like the first look above. The second suit was more a tailored double-breasted fit, with structure and cut being a focus; yet this has been contrasted through the delicate feather-like patterns included in the print of the cloth. Along with the suits were loose, lightweight linen shirts such as this soft green piece, created with a standard shirt collar and what appears to be similar to batwing sleeves with the extra fabric underneath the arm.
LABRUM London
Spring/Summer 2023
Continuing to deliver with cool tailoring was the LABRUM London collection, where the tones were quite earthy and minimal, giving the outfits full impact. Single-breasted and double-breasted cuts were on show, with patterns included in the tailored prints whilst keeping with the theme of less is more when it comes to the colour choices of the outfits.
This particular look showcased the strong effect incorporating a touch of gold into an outfit can have, especially within a tailored suit that will already deliver on the sharp front. The jacket's fastenings are hidden on the front, designed itself with a tall front to create shorter notch lapels. Underneath is an olive buttoned shirt worn open collar, fastened with large brown buttons. The jacket is relaxed through the body with flapped pockets breaking up the gold pattern that features down the sides and under the arms, round to the sleeves.
Monochrome attires are always delivering on impact and there were a few of these following that style, something we could see much of in the next Spring/Summer season; but again, the use of just incorporating two colours in one outfit continued at LFW. The first look shows a muted yellow double-breasted jacket with wide peak lapels and collar worn over an ivory shirt and shorts, creating a soft statement. The second jacket is designed with a diamond check in a soft blue/grey and brown pattern, finished with classic double jet and a welt pocket. The monochrome theme is definitely evident in the third and fourth look, both differing in the styles of jackets and textures, tips that really help a one-colour outfit pop.
Ahluwalia
Runway
A collection that certainly pops in vibrancy and variety, the Ahluwalia range encapsulated the bright tones and vivid colours we always expect to see around us in the Spring/Summer season. The men's and ladieswear was designed with bold and geometric patterns, contrasted by the gentle silhouettes and effortless lines that went into the construction of the garments, going hand-in-hand to make each individual look stand out, as the tailoring definitely did.
This particular look was a real defining piece on the runway in this collection. The blending of the bright orange paired with the light pink, paired gently together with a white outline in-between creates a gorgeous design. As already noted throughout LFW, the boldness is echoed through the choice of colours and structure of the suits, with this double-breasted jacket finished with four brown horn buttons on the front. Flapped pockets in both the orange and pink are positioned either side, whilst the peak lapels curve upwards, that small orange section on the left one really enhancing this detail. The shoulders feature good structure and the trousers' high waist create a strong, tall silhouette.
The focus wasn't just on two-piece suits: the coats and jacket continued to have their impact on the Spring/Summer 2023 season. The first piece above from the Ahluwalia range paired a plain brown cloth with a light blue plaid check on the other side, almost representing the transition from the colder months to the warmer months. Both sides include a narrow flapped pocket and wide notch lapels, with an angled buckle or strap holding the front of the jacket in place. The navy trousers are quite cool with the contrasting stripe down the side, whilst the pastel green safari-style jacket displays a white curved panel leading from the sleeves and across the chest. Two large patch pockets with button-down flaps sit at the bottom, whilst the collar is elongated and finished to a soft point. The accompanying belt is tied around the centre to be a design feature in itself as the model wears a lighter green (possibly turquoise) buttoned shirt underneath.
More fine and cool examples of tailoring and sartorial attires were displayed during London Fashion Week June 2022. Check out these examples below, what's catching your eye for S/S23?
Justin Cassin - Runway
AGR - Runway
Tiger of Sweden - Digital Show
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