London Fashion Week, September 2026 – Paul Costelloe Spring/Summer 2027
British tailoring meets Riviera style
London Fashion Week returned to the capital this September for the Spring/Summer 2027 season, bringing together some of the biggest names in British fashion alongside an exciting new generation of designers.
Opening the official schedule on Thursday 17th September, Paul Costelloe presented his Spring/Summer 2027 collection at London's Banking Hall – a show that marked another important chapter in the story of one of Britain's most recognisable fashion houses.
For this collection, the familiar language of Paul Costelloe was given a new interpretation by William Costelloe, who is now Creative Director of the family business following the death of his father in 2025.
The result?
A collection that looked backwards and forwards at the same time – embracing the house's Eighties heritage while introducing a lighter, more relaxed approach to tailoring for Spring/Summer 2027.
PAUL COSTELLOE | Spring/Summer 2027 | London Fashion Week
Designer: William Costelloe
House: Paul Costelloe
Collection: Spring/Summer 2027
Fashion Week: London Fashion Week
Date: Thursday 17th September 2026
Location: Banking Hall, London
There was something rather fitting about Paul Costelloe opening London Fashion Week this season.
The house has always occupied an interesting position within British fashion – combining elegance, tailoring and craftsmanship with a distinctly glamorous sense of occasion.
But SS27 represents something of a new chapter.
William Costelloe, who worked alongside his father for almost a decade, presented his second collection as Creative Director, building upon the foundations established by Paul while beginning to establish his own visual language.
And there was certainly no attempt to hide the house's heritage.
Instead, it was brought firmly back into the spotlight.
A Tribute To Paul
The show opened with a particularly touching tribute to the late Paul Costelloe.
A hand-drawn animation by Nicholas Costelloe depicted Paul as a fox travelling through London, surrounded by the fabrics, craftsmanship and creative world that had defined his career.
It provided a subtle reminder that while the name on the door remains the same, the fashion house is entering a new era.
And perhaps that was the perfect introduction to the collection.
Because William Costelloe wasn't attempting to erase the past.
He was reworking it.
The Return Of Eighties Power Dressing
If there was one decade making its presence known on the Paul Costelloe runway, it was undoubtedly the 1980s.
Broad shoulders, structured tailoring, pussy-bow blouses and silk headscarves all made appearances, recalling an era when power dressing was very much part of the fashion conversation.
The reference was particularly significant given the house's history with Diana, Princess of Wales, who wore Paul Costelloe designs during the 1980s and 1990s.
But this wasn't simply Eighties nostalgia.
The proportions were reinterpreted for a contemporary wardrobe, with structured jackets being paired with more relaxed trousers and lighter fabrics.
That balance between structure and ease became one of the defining themes of the collection.
Tailoring Takes Centre Stage
For us at Off The Cuff, this was perhaps the most interesting part of the collection.
Tailoring was very much at the heart of Paul Costelloe SS27.
Pinstripes, structured jackets, oversized tailoring, matching separates and strong shoulders provided the collection with its architectural backbone.
But rather than relying on traditional heavyweight tailoring cloths, William Costelloe softened the structure with linen, silk and lightweight cotton.
The effect was distinctly summery.
Tailoring that could move.
Tailoring that could breathe.
Tailoring that could travel from the city to somewhere considerably sunnier.
As one fashion report noted, the collection explored the balance between precision and ease, with tailoring remaining the backbone of the house while lighter fabrics introduced a sense of movement.
And frankly, that's something we can get behind.
Navy, White & A Little Riviera
The colour palette was equally appealing.
Navy and white dominated much of the collection, reinforcing the nautical and Riviera-inspired mood.
There were pinstripes, oversized buttons, nautical references and relaxed resort pieces, creating the impression that the Costelloe woman might be equally comfortable walking along the Côte d'Azur as she would be stepping into a London boardroom.
It's a wonderfully British interpretation of summer dressing.
Because when the British weather finally gives us something resembling sunshine, there is nothing quite like reaching for a beautifully cut navy jacket and pretending we're somewhere considerably warmer.
Irish Linen For Summer
One of the standout materials throughout the collection was Irish linen.
Lightweight, breathable and naturally textured, linen has long been associated with warm-weather dressing, but here it was used within a more structured and tailored wardrobe.
That combination is particularly interesting.
Linen can sometimes be associated with an intentionally relaxed or slightly rumpled aesthetic.
Costelloe instead used it to create pieces that retained a sense of polish while remaining suitable for warmer temperatures.
It is a reminder that summer tailoring doesn't necessarily mean abandoning structure.
It simply means choosing the right cloth.
The Details Make The Difference
The collection also demonstrated just how much personality can be created through styling.
Silk scarves appeared in numerous guises – worn around the head, around the waist and even attached to bags.
Oversized sunglasses, gold jewellery and large summer totes added another layer of Eighties glamour.
There were also playful combinations that deliberately blurred the traditional boundaries between tailoring and resortwear, including jackets worn over swimwear and more relaxed combinations of tailored pieces.
The message from William Costelloe appeared refreshingly simple:
There are no rules.
And perhaps that is exactly what modern tailoring needs.
The Modern Power Suit
The power suit has come a long way since the 1980s.
The shoulder pads may be back, but today's interpretation is considerably more flexible.
A strong shoulder can give a jacket presence.
A wide trouser can create an elegant silhouette.
A beautifully cut pinstripe can bring authority without looking corporate.
And a lightweight cloth can make the entire outfit feel completely different.
That is where the runway becomes particularly useful for bespoke tailoring.
Fashion provides the inspiration.
The bespoke tailor provides the translation.
From The Catwalk To The Cutting Table
At A Hand Tailored Suit, we have always believed that fashion trends are best treated as inspiration rather than instruction.
You don't necessarily need to reproduce an entire runway look.
Sometimes a single detail is enough.
Perhaps it's the broader shoulder.
A softer jacket.
A wider trouser.
A distinctive stripe.
A lightweight summer cloth.
Or simply a navy jacket with a beautifully contrasting lining.
Bespoke gives you the opportunity to take those ideas and adapt them to your own proportions, lifestyle and personality.
Because the runway model may look fantastic in an oversized jacket.
That doesn't necessarily mean you need to order one two sizes too big.
That's where we come in. ✂️
The Beauty Of A Bespoke Summer Suit
Paul Costelloe's SS27 collection is also a useful reminder that tailoring isn't exclusively an autumn and winter affair.
A well-designed summer suit can be one of the most versatile garments in a wardrobe.
Lightweight wool.
Merino wool.
Linen.
Wool and linen blends.
Breathable construction.
Lighter canvassing.
And carefully considered colours.
These elements allow a bespoke suit to retain the sophistication of traditional tailoring while being considerably more comfortable when the temperature rises.
And perhaps most importantly, the garment can be designed around the individual.
British Fashion, Irish Heritage
There is also something particularly interesting about the Paul Costelloe story.
Although the house has a strong presence within London Fashion Week, its heritage is unmistakably connected to Ireland.
That combination of Irish craftsmanship and London fashion has helped give the brand its distinctive identity.
Now, with William Costelloe at the helm, the house is beginning another chapter.
The Spring/Summer 2027 collection demonstrates that heritage doesn't necessarily mean standing still.
Sometimes the best way to preserve a legacy is to allow it to evolve.
Our Takeaway From Paul Costelloe SS27
For us, the most interesting thing about Paul Costelloe's Spring/Summer 2027 collection wasn't simply the return of Eighties shoulders or the Riviera styling.
It was the way tailoring was allowed to relax without losing its authority.
The collection demonstrated that structure and comfort don't have to be opposites.
A jacket can have presence while remaining lightweight.
A pinstripe can feel contemporary.
A summer suit can be sophisticated without feeling formal.
And a traditional tailoring house can look to its past while moving forward.
That is something we see every day in bespoke tailoring.
The best garments aren't necessarily the ones that shout the loudest.
They're the ones where the cut, cloth and craftsmanship work together perfectly.
And sometimes, that's all you need.
London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027
Paul Costelloe's opening show was just the beginning of another fascinating London Fashion Week.
The SS27 schedule brought together established British houses and emerging designers, with names including Erdem, Simone Rocha, Harris Reed, Roksanda, Richard Quinn, Burberry and Alexander McQueen appearing across the week.
But Paul Costelloe provided something particularly fitting with which to open the week.
A reminder that British fashion is built upon both heritage and reinvention.
And with William Costelloe now guiding the house into its next chapter, it will be fascinating to see where that story goes next.
And Finally… 👔
There are two things Paul Costelloe has taught us this season:
1. Eighties shoulders are back.
2. Apparently, so are the sunglasses.
We're still deciding whether we're emotionally prepared for both. 😎
But one thing is certain...
If you're going to bring back power dressing, please make sure the jacket fits properly.
After all, shoulder pads can create the illusion of power.
A properly cut bespoke jacket doesn't need the illusion. 😉
✂️ Fashion changes. Good tailoring doesn't.
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