The collection was titled 'Louis Dreamhouse' and for the production of the runway, indeed was such a house included to really enhance the mystical show that was rife with energy. It would unfortunately be the last runway that showcased the vision of the house's late creative director, Virgil Abloh; but it was truly a spectacle with some stunning looks during Paris Menswear Fashion Week. Take a look at the collection below as we analyse some of the statement looks from the runway:
The looks were edgy and modern, with some sharp refined lines and silhouettes that made up the menswear collection on the 20th January 2022. From a multi-coloured geometric overcoat (cleverly pattern-matched too) to a striking tie-dye hoodie, from a sporty layered ensemble to an all-in-one suit made with a smart twist thanks to the shirt and tie underneath, the collection was so varied whilst showcasing the designs and ideas Abloh incorporated into the Vuitton name so well.
Velvet cropped up in a few of the collection's looks with these three pieces examples of such, although the first turquoise piece has a noticeable texture that gives the illusion it is something else. Its design included a three-button front with wide yet short notch lapels, an angled welt pocket accessorised with a badge or brooch and the classic flapped pockets sitting below the waist. The reflection of the lighting onto the material allowed this to really shine on the runway, the texture of the cloth then able to provide more depth to what is a cool blazer. From a purple and aquamarine combo in a streetwear-vibe attire broken up with white detailing, the third look romanticises the tailored suit somewhat through the staging of flowers in the Louis Vuitton bag. The peak lapels on the velvet piece balance the padded shoulders nicely, whilst the draping of the material through the loose trouser fit just capture the slightly lighter shade that makes up the shirt and tie.
Vintage floral was also common across a few of the looks from the collection, appearing in the form of three different coat styles. The first was paired with matching gloves, a matching hat and matching bag as the peak lapels can just be made out in this boxy shoulder piece. The second and third coats are different floral prints but all based on a light background to allow the vibrancy and artistic designs stand out. The second jacket was designed with an exposed white zip and two buttons near the bottom with a wide collar as the third jacket was constructed with a closed button placket and tucked a pale blue gathered piece. All details were vital in this collection, and none went amiss.
This look in particular was very interesting with regards to the modern construction of a tailored suit. The blazer was sharp along the shoulders with padded and strong lines leading into the sleeves where they were finished with four-button cuffs; but the element that was very cool was the overlap of the notch lapels. The style of them was wide as they sat low on the chest, the one side sitting over the other and finishing into a thin gap on the other side. The other half sat underneath and continued the line down to the hem diagonally, a dove acting as the button and an actual solo button on the notched hem. The trousers were slim with a slit on the back near the hem to complete this edgy, monochromatic ensemble.
A jacket that depicts a painting or a work of art is how to describe this particular look from the show. This garment featured four perfectly matching flapped patch pockets on the front, blending in seamlessly with the design of what looks to be a tapestry. Buttoned sleeve belts feature on the cuffs and the collar standing tall with a covered placket down the centre. As the shoulders were broad and strong, the waist was fitted and cinched in, bringing further attention to the historical painting seen within the print.
Monochromatic suits were throughout the show, varying from single to double-breasted with matching metallic finish shirts and ties, the first look above being an exception with a brown suit and purple shirt and tie. The single-breasted suits had a 60's feel to it through the multiple buttons featured in the fastenings as the bottom ones were left undone. A floral brooch fastened in place of the top button across all suiting attires pictured above and acted as such a simple yet beautiful detail to finish off the looks. Flapped pockets and a variety of notch and peak lapels were chosen, all with a strong shoulder line and one that is particularly enhanced through the belt fastening on the light blue number.
The styling was unique in this show but very exploratory as a few models wore what looks to be wings on their backs, constructed from delicate lace fabric with possibly boning to keep the shape. The attires were all white to convey this heavenly theme and the models' outfits varied from long overcoats and relaxed jackets to simply wearing a shirt, waistcoat and cropped shorts, much like the last look above. Waistcoats did appear in other looks and styled in a very modern smart/casual way, with this particular white piece designed with angled welt pockets near the bottom and a five-button front. The shape and cut is quite classic, layered over the white tie and shirt that hangs loose from the hem over the tailored pair of shorts. The wings epitomised the creative scale of the collection and made for a memorable runway indeed for what is Virgil Abloh's last one. Check out a few more eye-catching pieces from the runway below, including an oversized long-length brown overcoat to a sparkly denim blue trousers and jacket combo.
Make sure to check back and view the latest from the catwalks and runways during February fashion month on our blog!
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