Marni | Spring/Summer 2027 | Milan Fashion Week

If Prada decided that one idea could make an entire collection, and Max Mara sent us off on safari, Marni decided that Spring/Summer 2027 should be a little bit eccentric, a little bit nostalgic and very definitely Marni.

Presented in Milan on 24 September 2026, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection marked Meryll Rogge's second collection as Creative Director of Marni — and if her debut was about reconnecting with the house's history, this time around the Belgian designer allowed considerably more of her own personality to enter the conversation.

The result was colourful, playful and deliberately unconventional.

In other words...

Very Marni.

A New Chapter Begins to Take Shape

Rogge arrived at Marni earlier this year with an enormous archive behind her.

For her debut, she went back to the origins of the house, rediscovering the restrained silhouettes and monochromatic palette of Marni's earliest collections.

For Spring/Summer 2027, however, the dial moved.

The collection retained Marni's distinctive fascination with proportion, colour, print and unexpected combinations, but there was noticeably more freedom.

Rather than simply looking backwards, Rogge began pushing the Marni vocabulary forward.

And that's perhaps the most interesting part of a second collection.

The designer no longer needs to introduce herself.

Now she can start talking in her own voice.

The Marni Woman Gets a Little More Playful

The collection's muse was described by contemporary coverage as the archetypal “Manic Pixie Dream Girl” — an eccentric, romantic and slightly unpredictable character familiar from films such as Almost Famous, Garden State and 500 Days of Summer.

It is an idea that fits surprisingly well with Marni.

There were 1970s-inspired A-line dresses, striped capri trousers, waistcoats, pencil skirts, oversized earrings, colourful knee-high socks and plenty of rhinestones.

And then came the Afghan-inspired coats.

Think Penny Lane.

Think vintage cinema.

Think someone who has wandered into a Milanese fashion show after spending the morning browsing a vintage market.

That combination of nostalgia and eccentricity gave the collection its character.

Prints With Personality

Marni has never been particularly interested in playing it safe with print.

Spring/Summer 2027 was no exception.

Patterns appeared across dresses, skirts, separates and accessories, with 1970s-inspired graphics, stripes and bold combinations creating much of the collection's visual energy.

But there was an important distinction.

The prints weren't simply there to make an outfit colourful.

They were part of the personality of the garment.

A striped trouser could sit alongside a patterned top.

A highly decorated skirt could be paired with something much simpler.

A bold coat could completely transform an otherwise restrained look.

It's a styling philosophy that has long been part of Marni's appeal:

don't necessarily make everything match — make everything interesting.

Tailoring With a Twist

For us at A Hand Tailored Suit, the tailoring elements were particularly interesting.

Rather than traditional formal suiting, Rogge approached tailoring through waistcoats, fitted pencil skirts, structured jackets and carefully considered proportions.

There was structure, but it was softened by the more playful elements surrounding it.

A tailored silhouette might be paired with colourful socks.

A structured waistcoat might sit alongside a printed piece.

And a classic proportion could suddenly be interrupted by an oversized accessory.

It demonstrates something that is increasingly relevant to contemporary tailoring:

the suit doesn't always have to behave itself.

A beautifully cut tailored garment can become considerably more individual when the styling around it introduces something unexpected.

The Power of Proportion

If there is one element that connects Rogge's Marni work with traditional tailoring, it is proportion.

A garment doesn't have to be complicated to be interesting.

Sometimes a change in the shoulder.

A slightly longer jacket.

A lower waistline.

A wider trouser.

Or an exaggerated sleeve.

Can completely change the personality of an outfit.

Marni has always understood this.

Rogge is now taking that understanding and pushing it into her own visual language.

The result is clothing that can appear familiar at first glance — and then increasingly unusual the longer you look at it.

Rhinestones, Buttons & Everything In Between

Minimalism wasn't exactly invited to this particular party.

Rhinestones, oversized buttons, chunky enamelled jewellery and embellished accessories appeared throughout the collection.

The oversized handbags were particularly striking, combining different patterns and textures, while footwear included suede boots featuring unusual Velcro fastening details.

And then there were the shoes.

Ballet flats were given heels and oversized straps, while knee-high socks introduced unexpected flashes of colour.

It was the sort of accessorising that reminds us why fashion can be fun.

Not every garment needs to be serious.

Sometimes the best accessory is simply a little bit of mischief.

From Penny Lane to Milan

One of the strongest references throughout the collection was the Afghan coat, recalling the bohemian styling of Penny Lane from Almost Famous.

It is a wonderfully nostalgic reference.

But rather than reproducing the 1970s aesthetic literally, Marni incorporated the idea into a contemporary wardrobe.

The coats became oversized, tactile and statement-making.

They were less “costume from a period film” and more modern Marni with a cinematic memory attached.

That ability to reference the past without becoming trapped by it is one of the collection's strengths.

Belgian Sensibility Meets Italian Heritage

There was also a subtle shift in personality.

Rogge is Belgian, having studied at the Royal Academy of Antwerp before working at Marc Jacobs in New York and later becoming Head of Women's Design at Dries Van Noten in Antwerp.

Her background brings with it a particular appreciation for construction, experimentation and intellectual playfulness.

At Marni, that sensibility is being filtered through a house founded in Milan in 1994 with a long-established reputation for experimentation across materials, silhouettes and colour.

Spring/Summer 2027 feels like that conversation becoming increasingly natural.

It isn't simply Rogge designing Marni.

It is Rogge learning how to speak Marni — and Marni beginning to speak Rogge.

The Joy of Dressing

Perhaps the most appealing thing about the collection is that it doesn't take itself too seriously.

Fashion can sometimes become obsessed with minimalism, quiet luxury and wardrobe essentials.

Marni is a useful reminder that clothes can also be joyful.

You can wear the strange socks.

You can choose the oversized earrings.

You can wear the rhinestones.

You can mix the patterns.

You can put a slightly eccentric coat over an otherwise perfectly ordinary outfit.

And you can enjoy it.

That sense of individuality is at the heart of Marni's identity.

What Can Bespoke Tailoring Take From Marni SS27?

There is an important lesson here for bespoke tailoring.

Individuality doesn't necessarily come from designing something completely unfamiliar.

It can come from taking familiar tailoring principles and changing the details.

A classic jacket can become contemporary through proportion.

A traditional trouser can become more relaxed through its cut.

A waistcoat can be worn independently rather than as part of a three-piece suit.

And a bold cloth can completely transform an otherwise traditional silhouette.

This is one of the reasons bespoke tailoring remains so versatile.

The fundamentals remain.

But the finished garment can be as individual as the person commissioning it.

Marni simply takes that philosophy and turns the volume up.

Marni Spring/Summer 2027 — The Off The Cuff Take

Meryll Rogge's second Marni collection feels like a designer becoming increasingly comfortable in the house.

The references are there.

The colours are there.

The eccentricity is certainly there.

But beneath the rhinestones, prints and oversized accessories is something much more fundamental:

a very clear understanding of proportion, construction and personality.

Marni doesn't ask you to dress like everyone else.

It doesn't even particularly ask you to dress sensibly.

It asks you to have a point of view.

And frankly, fashion could probably do with a little more of that.

Watch the Marni Spring/Summer 2027 Show

Experience the full Marni Spring/Summer 2027 Milan Fashion Week showcase and see Meryll Rogge's latest collection come to life.

Marni | Spring/Summer 2027 | Milan Fashion Week

Watch the full Marni Spring/Summer 2027 show on YouTube

You can also explore Marni's official Spring/Summer 2027 show presentation.

Off The Cuff

From the runways of Milan, London, Paris and New York to the cutting table at A Hand Tailored Suit, Off The Cuff explores the designers, collections, fabrics and ideas shaping contemporary fashion and tailoring.

Because fashion changes every season.

Good tailoring doesn't.

A Witty Footnote…

Marni has given us rhinestones, Afghan coats, colourful socks, oversized handbags, enough buttons to require their own postcode and shoes that appear to have developed a complicated relationship with Velcro.

We're beginning to suspect that “keep it simple” wasn't particularly high on the mood board.

*Still, if your bespoke suit ever feels a little too sensible, we know where to send you.

www.ahandtailoredsuit.com

 

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— Off The Cuff A Hand Tailored Suit ✂️