Milan Fashion Week, September 2026: Fendi Spring/Summer 2027
Fendi | Spring/Summer 2027 | Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week is once again in full swing, and few names carry quite the weight, heritage and unmistakable Italian glamour of Fendi.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Maria Grazia Chiuri continued to establish her vision for the Roman fashion house with a collection centred on the relationship between clothing and the body — exploring sensuality, freedom, femininity and masculinity through an unmistakably Fendi lens.
Presented on 23rd September 2026, the collection brought together delicate transparency, relaxed tailoring, luxurious textures and flashes of 1970s glamour.
And naturally, here at A Hand Tailored Suit, our eyes were immediately drawn towards the tailoring.
A Reflection of the Body
The setting itself established the mood before the clothes had even fully revealed themselves.
Models moved through a striking mirrored installation, inspired by Italian artist Luciano Fabro's Cubo di specchi. Reflections multiplied across the space, allowing models, garments and audience members to appear alongside one another.
It was an intriguing backdrop for a collection so focused on the relationship between what we wear and the bodies underneath.
Rather than simply presenting clothes, Fendi appeared to be asking a question: how does a garment change the way we see ourselves — and the way others see us?
That idea ran throughout the collection.
When Tailoring Meets Sensuality
There was an interesting conversation between traditionally masculine tailoring and considerably softer, more revealing elements.
Structured jackets appeared alongside sheer fabrics, lace, silk, lingerie-inspired pieces and fluid dresses, while tailoring was frequently relaxed rather than rigid.
Black remained an important anchor throughout the collection, giving many of the tailored pieces a sophisticated evening quality.
There was a confidence to the proportions too.
Jackets weren't simply there to create structure; they were used to contrast against exposed skin, delicate fabrics and looser silhouettes underneath.
It is something we regularly discuss within bespoke tailoring: the most interesting outfits often come from contrast.
A beautifully structured jacket can become considerably more striking when paired with something softer beneath it.
A Touch of the Seventies
The spirit of legendary Italian entertainer Raffaella Carrà could be felt throughout the collection.
Carrà became one of Italy's most recognisable performers during the 1970s, renowned not only for her music and television appearances but also for her glamorous, sometimes provocative wardrobe.
That influence translated into a collection filled with a sense of late-night Italian glamour.
There were flashes of lace, plunging necklines, shimmering embellishment, dramatic outerwear and plenty of movement.
At times it felt almost disco-inspired; elsewhere the mood became darker and more sophisticated.
It was glamorous without feeling overly polished — an important distinction.
Texture Takes Centre Stage
As you would expect from Fendi, craftsmanship remained an essential part of the story.
The collection moved between dramatically different textures: lace against leather, silk against fur, denim against embroidery and tailoring against transparency.
That juxtaposition gave the garments considerable depth.
Some of the most interesting looks combined lightweight fabrics with substantial outerwear, allowing coats and jackets to provide the architecture while softer layers moved underneath.
For anyone interested in tailoring, it was another reminder that fabric choice is about considerably more than colour.
Weight, texture, handle and movement can completely transform a silhouette.
Relaxing the Rules of the Suit
One particularly interesting element was the way traditionally tailored garments were allowed to become less formal.
Rather than presenting the jacket exclusively as part of a conventional suit, Fendi treated tailoring as another layer within the wardrobe.
It could be dressed up.
It could be dressed down.
It could sit alongside eveningwear, denim or something considerably more delicate.
It is a direction we continue to see across contemporary menswear and womenswear: bespoke tailoring doesn't necessarily have to mean formal tailoring.
The beauty of a well-cut jacket is its versatility.
Change the cloth, construction, proportions and styling, and the same principles used to create a business suit can produce something altogether more relaxed.
Colour After Dark
Although black dominated much of the collection's evening mood, colour occasionally broke through.
Touches of salmon pink, yellow and muted turquoise appeared among the darker palette, while animal prints and richly embellished surfaces added further character.
These weren't necessarily colours competing for attention.
Instead, they appeared almost as interruptions — flashes amongst the darker tailoring, lace and eveningwear.
For Spring/Summer, it provided an interesting alternative to the predictable explosion of bright seasonal colour.
Accessories, Accessories, Accessories
Of course, this wouldn't be Fendi without some serious attention being paid to accessories.
The iconic Baguette appeared in numerous interpretations, alongside embellished and highly decorative bags that added another layer of texture to the collection.
One particularly playful development was an even smaller interpretation of the Baguette — reduced to proportions intended for little more than the modern essential: your phone.
Practical?
Debatable.
Very Fendi?
Absolutely.
What Can Bespoke Take From Fendi SS27?
For us, the strongest takeaway from Fendi Spring/Summer 2027 was the collection's willingness to allow tailoring to exist outside its traditional boundaries.
A jacket doesn't always need matching trousers.
A suit doesn't always need a shirt and tie.
And tailoring doesn't necessarily have to feel corporate.
The right combination of cut, cloth, texture and proportion can make tailoring appropriate for virtually any environment.
For Spring/Summer, lighter constructions, softer shoulders and breathable fabrics can give a tailored garment considerably more movement while still retaining the structure that makes bespoke clothing so flattering.
Whether that means lightweight wool, linen, silk blends or something altogether more adventurous, the fundamentals remain the same:
good tailoring starts with the person wearing it.
And perhaps that's where Fendi's Spring/Summer 2027 collection and bespoke tailoring have more in common than first meets the eye.
Watch the Fendi Spring/Summer 2027 Show
Watch the full Fendi Spring/Summer 2027 Milan Fashion Week presentation and take a closer look at Maria Grazia Chiuri's latest vision for the house.
Fendi | Spring/Summer 2027 | Milan Fashion Week
Off The Cuff
From the catwalks of Milan, London, Paris and New York to the cutting table here at A Hand Tailored Suit, Off The Cuff continues to explore the collections, craftsmanship and ideas shaping contemporary tailoring and fashion.
Because trends may come and go, but great cloth, a sharp cut and proper craftsmanship never really go out of fashion.
A Witty Footnote…
Fendi gave us mirrored walls, sheer layers, Italian disco glamour and a Baguette small enough to carry little more than your phone.
Which rather proves our long-held tailoring philosophy: your jacket pockets may occasionally have to do some actual work.
Until next time — stay sharp, stay tailored, and if you're going to spend the evening admiring yourself in a hall of mirrors… at least make sure the jacket fits properly.
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— Off The Cuff A Hand Tailored Suit
