Paris Fashion Week continued to deliver with more amazing runways and collections and of course, within those collections, some inspirational elements of tailoring we're spotted. Let's delve into more from the concluding week of Autumn/Winter fashion month.
Vivienne Westwood
Runway - 5th March 2022
The designs of Vivienne Westwood are always recognised for bold patterns and edgy styling, elements this collection still maintained; but amongst the tailoring in particular was a great focus on the lines and structure as these two pieces show. The first is a bright blue coat with a darker navy botanical print over the top, cut in a double-breasted form and styled with wide notch lapels. The shoulders are wide and drape down whilst still holding the structure of them as the lead down into the sleeves with a three-button cuff. The collar pops and the coat is designed with an array of pockets: two flapped pockets lower down, vertical jet pockets in the middle and a button-down flap pocket on the chest. The second coat is softer in appearance through the washed tones of oranges, yellows and reds, softer too through the scattered arrangement of buttons on the front of this coat.
This look is one that really focuses on structure as the black check jacket is finished with pleats down the centre to create this artistic tailored piece. The fastening is hidden on the centre front and the jacket is fitted to the waist to create this peplum-style finish to the hem. The front line curves upwards towards the collar smoothly, creating an elegant neckline that's contrasted by the structured, rounded shoulders that help to lift the piece. Underneath is a light grey check skirt in the same wool blend that aids in making this jacket a statement piece on the runway.
Overcoats didn't go amiss in this collection as above, single and double-breasted patterned coats both featured. The first is a silver/white blend double-breasted piee with flapped pockets and wide peak lapels that almost seamlessly blend into the design. The shoulders are structured as the coat effortlessly drapes down to mid-calf length, slightly shorter than the grey Prince of Wales check look that finished just above the ankle. This topcoat has six buttons on the front and the gap between each one appears to increase slightly. The shoulders are designed to stick out over the tops of the sleeves, showing how well the cloth sits naturally and with structure. The collar pops and the inner cloth matches the grey velvet turn-up cuffs on the sleeves.
Elie Saab
Runway - 5th March 2022
It was a collection that epitomised the colour palette of winter with loads of green, blue and purple used to create sublime tailoring such as this rich velvet two-piece suit. The sapphire blue cut in the velvet adds more depth to the already striking colour as the jacket is cut with a double-breasted front of four buttons and peak lapels. The shoulders are padded and on the front are four patch pockets - two small and two large - whilst the piece is fitted to the waist when fastened. The trousers are cropped and tapered to middle of the calf; but what makes this monochrome look really stand out is the finished edge around the pockets, lapels and hem, simply elevating it.
The suits were quite exceptional on the Elie Saab runway, and these were just a few more of what was seen. The first glittery green two-piece suit featured a cropped jacket with an angled hem and great structure in the shoulders once more with a chic contrasting black satin collar, the same detail that can be seen on the double-breasted black and green glitter suits with patch pockets also. The second suit is a showstopper with the gorgeous botanical pattern on the cloth, multi-coloured with purple, sky blue, green, white and black all featured. The buttons on the double-breasted front are black and with the strong shoulderline, it simply conveys a power suit moment done in an elegant way.
Embellishment was seen on an array of pieces in the collection that ranged from feathers to eyelets as seen in this particular suit. It's a black two-piece worn with a sheer black blouse underneath that has matte shirt collar and button placket. The jacket is a one-button shawl collar style with the repetitive floral pattern mimicking the lace pattern covering the rest of the jacket and trousers. The subtle matte finish to the shawl collar allows the gold and silver embellishments to glisten and transform this suit into a stand-out evening number, flapped pockets featuring near the bottom and a rounded hem to not overpower the shine of the decorations.
Rokh
Runway - 5th March 2022
Keeping it simple yet striking with this red overcoat that was spotted on the Rokh runway during Paris Fashion Week, styled with a pair of long, light grey check trousers and a standard white buttoned shirt. The shirt cuffs show significantly through the ends of the coat sleeves, those themselves designed with a high five-button cuff in black to match those across the waist. The coat is secured with an elasticated belt across the middle whilst underneath are two flapped pockets and the classic welt on the chest. The peak lapels are a good width to complement the shoulders, and the corners are rounded off nicely to match the soft texture.
This look was certainly very edgy and modern, consistent with the overall theme of the runway as the model sported a light grey plaid check piece with peak lapels on the jacket and a welt pocket also. The light blue shirt underneath included a classic collar the sleeves long enough for the cuffs to show; however, the manipulation of the cloth across the waist and the black belts that featured with silver details is what gave this its modern, rock-style vibe. The trouser hem finished mid-calf whilst over the top, appeared to be an additional skirt that buttoned up off-centre, showing what could be the black buttoned waistband of the trousers.
Here, the model wears a cornflower blue shirt and matching tie which is secured underneath the classic collar. With a long pair of camel trousers draping on the floor for that trendy look, the outfit is completed with the sand-coloured topcoat. It's heavily embellished with metallic studs running throughout and the draping of the natural shouderline further conveys the relaxed nature of the garment. The flapped pockets sit round to the side with the peak lapels and welt pocket also noticed. The fastening sits low down on the coat whilst the hem finishes at mid-calf length.
Stella McCartney
Runway - 7th March 2022
Chalkstripes combined in a colour-blocking tailored garment certainly makes for a statement piece, and these two overcoats showed that during the Stella McCartney runway. Both are double-breasted and showcase the stripes going in a diagonal direction which aids in the strong style of them. They both differ with the choice of lapels and pocket styles too: the first one includes more buttons on the front and patch pockets underneath two vertical jet pockets, whilst the second overcoats is made with peak lapels and large flapped pockets that sit level with the brown horn buttons of the fastening. Both are worn with either a V or crew neck knit underneath and a white shirt for that smart, fashionable finishing touch.
The striped theme continues with this vivid orange two-piece suit that conveys the thicker stripes angled in the same diagonal direction as the coats. The blazer itself has a low one-button front to compensate for the shawl collar that elongates the silhouette, whilst two thin double jet pockets sit either side, spotted via the break in the stripes. A welt pocket aligns perfectly with the design and the shoulders are structured with a smooth line across the top. The curved jacket hem sits over the top of the straight-leg trousers, the stripes inverting to the centre before separate panels on the hem show the stripes standing vertically, again helping elongate the silhouette of the suit.
More variety of overcoats walked down the Stella McCartney runway during Paris Fashion Week, all kept in one colour but styled effortlessly to make them more of a statement. The first camel coat is styled over the top of a turquoise outfit and accessorised with a lighter blue bag, all acting as an outline to this double-breasted piece with a long belt tie across the centre and sleeve belts also. As the collar and notch lapels fall low, the shoulders are strong once more, as they are across the other two coats above. The brown piece is oversized and minimal with just the two buttons on the front and broad shoulders, whilst the black overcoat is completely fastened to show the large patch pockets on the sides and the hidden vertical jet ones also the model uses.
Paris Fashion Week and fashion month is almost at an end, so we can expect more show-stopping tailoring to be displayed on the runways. Check out more pristine examples you may have missed, including cool, minimal tailoring from Ann Demeulemeester, groovy stripes from Kenneth Ize and a classic double-breasted coat from Hermès.
Want more fashion month content? Check back on our blog to see the closing stages to Paris Fashion Week and fashion month!
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