New York Fashion Week, September 2026: Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2027
New York Fashion Week has once again transformed Manhattan into a global stage for fashion, creativity and some seriously impressive wardrobes.
As the Spring/Summer 2027 collections take over the city, designers have been offering their interpretations of what we will be wearing when the warmer months arrive.
And one of the collections that caught our attention was Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2027.
Presented beneath the Brooklyn Bridge at Gotham Park, the collection brought together romance, craftsmanship, soft tailoring and a distinctly New York sense of individuality.
The setting itself couldn't have been more appropriate.
The models walked through the newly reclaimed Gotham Park, surrounded by greenery with the Brooklyn Bridge rising dramatically above them.
It was a collection about nature, femininity and the city — all existing together.
Watch the full Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2027 showcase below.
Welcome to the Urban Pastoral
Ulla Johnson described the collection as an “urban pastoral” — a meeting point between the romantic world of nature and the energy of New York City.
And that description makes perfect sense.
There were flowers.
Soft colours.
Sheer fabrics.
Fluid dresses.
Fringe.
Lace.
Hand-painted details.
But alongside all of that came something considerably more structured.
Tailoring.
Trench coats.
Cropped jackets.
Poplin shirts.
Denim.
Relaxed trousers.
The collection therefore wasn't simply romantic.
It was about contrast.
Soft against structured.
Delicate against practical.
Feminine against utilitarian.
And that tension made the collection particularly interesting.
A Different Side of Ulla Johnson
Ulla Johnson is perhaps best known for her romantic dresses, intricate prints and artisanal detailing.
But Spring/Summer 2027 demonstrated how much broader her design vocabulary has become.
Vogue noted that the collection has evolved beyond the bohemian dresses traditionally associated with the label, while retaining Johnson's dreamy sensibility.
This evolution was particularly noticeable in the tailoring.
Rather than dominating the collection, tailoring became one part of a much larger wardrobe.
A jacket here.
A trench there.
A crisp shirt underneath something softer.
A pair of jeans contrasting against a more delicate blouse.
The result felt much closer to the way real people actually dress.
Because wardrobes aren't usually built around one aesthetic.
They are built around combinations.
Soft Tailoring
For us at A Hand Tailored Suit, the soft tailoring was one of the most interesting elements of the collection.
There was no sense of rigid corporate suiting.
Instead, tailoring appeared relaxed, fluid and highly wearable.
Cropped jackets were paired with fuller skirts and dresses, while oversized outerwear contrasted against more delicate fabrics.
It is a reminder that tailoring doesn't always need to be sharp-edged.
A beautifully tailored garment can have softness.
It can move.
It can drape.
It can feel relaxed while still retaining structure.
And that is something that can be achieved through the cloth itself.
The right fabric can completely transform the personality of a tailored garment.
The Beauty of the Trench Coat
The trench coat also played an important role.
But rather than being presented purely as traditional outerwear, Ulla Johnson treated the trench as another canvas for creativity.
One standout example featured a hand-painted blossoming flower running across the hem.
And this is where the collection really demonstrates the relationship between fashion and craftsmanship.
A basic trench is functional.
A beautifully cut trench is stylish.
A trench that has been individually embellished becomes something much more personal.
The garment stops being simply outerwear.
It becomes part of your identity.
Sheer, But Not Just For Evening
Another major theme was transparency.
Sheer fabrics are hardly a new fashion idea, but Johnson explored them in a particularly interesting way by bringing them into daytime dressing.
A fishnet pencil skirt appeared with a peach-toned cropped denim trench and mint button-down, while fuller sheer skirts were combined with more structured jackets.
The result was sensual without being exclusively eveningwear.
And again, it was about contrast.
Sheer and structured.
Soft and tailored.
Romantic and practical.
Those combinations gave the collection a sense of movement and versatility.
A Palette Inspired by Summer
The colour palette was distinctly Spring/Summer.
Soft pastel shades dominated, with tones including blossom pink, peach, mint, lavender, soft blue and other faded, sun-washed colours.
Floral patterns appeared throughout the collection, while embroidery, lace, fringe and textured surfaces added depth.
There was a sense that these clothes had been touched by summer.
Nothing felt overly harsh.
Nothing felt unnecessarily formal.
Even the tailoring had an element of ease.
And that is an interesting direction for warm-weather dressing.
Florals With A Little More Attitude
Florals are hardly revolutionary for Spring/Summer.
But Ulla Johnson has never been particularly interested in doing things in the most obvious way.
The floral elements were combined with tailoring, denim, sheer fabrics and utilitarian outerwear.
The result was less “pretty floral dress” and more “modern New York woman who happens to be wearing flowers.”
That distinction matters.
Because style isn't really about the individual garment.
It's about the attitude with which you wear it.
Denim Meets Romance
Denim also appeared throughout the collection, providing a useful counterpoint to the more delicate pieces.
One of the standout looks featured baggy, heavily washed denim with a cotton shirt and silk scarf.
It was relaxed.
Uncomplicated.
And very New York.
Denim has a wonderful ability to bring a more formal or romantic outfit back down to earth.
Put denim next to lace.
Put it next to silk.
Put it next to tailoring.
Suddenly the entire outfit feels different.
It's the same reason a pair of jeans can completely change the personality of a tailored jacket.
The Importance of Texture
If there was one thing that consistently caught our eye throughout the collection, it was texture.
Lace.
Embroidery.
Fringe.
Gauze.
Denim.
Poplin.
Textured yarns.
Painted surfaces.
Each material created a different relationship with the light and movement of the garment.
And for anyone who appreciates clothing from a tailoring perspective, this is where fashion becomes particularly fascinating.
Two jackets can have exactly the same pattern.
Exactly the same construction.
Exactly the same measurements.
Yet put them in two completely different cloths and they can become entirely different garments.
Cloth changes everything.
A Handmade Feeling
There was also an unmistakable sense of craftsmanship running through the collection.
Hand-painted details and intricate surface treatments gave some of the garments an almost individual quality.
That feeling of something being worked on by hand is becoming increasingly valuable in modern fashion.
When so much clothing is designed and manufactured for scale, garments with visible evidence of human involvement feel different.
They feel personal.
And that is something bespoke tailoring has understood for generations.
The Show's Setting Was Part of the Story
Fashion shows often use spectacular locations.
But Gotham Park wasn't simply a backdrop.
It was part of the collection's message.
The park sits beneath the Brooklyn Bridge and has undergone a major regeneration after years of being inaccessible to the public. Johnson chose the location as a way of connecting her collection with a changing part of New York.
And she intends to take that relationship one step further.
Following the show, Johnson plans to work with the landscape architects behind Gotham Park to contribute 750 native plants and 12 trees to its permanent landscaping.
It means that, unlike the vast majority of fashion shows, this one leaves something physical behind.
Not just photographs.
Not just reviews.
Something that grows.
From Runway to Real Wardrobe
One of the things we particularly enjoyed about the collection was its wearability.
Behind the runway drama were pieces that could easily find a place in a real wardrobe.
A beautifully cut jacket.
A trench coat.
A crisp shirt.
Relaxed trousers.
A pair of jeans.
A floral dress.
A lightweight summer suit.
These are the foundations of a wardrobe.
The runway simply showed us another way of putting them together.
And that is perhaps the greatest value of fashion week.
It doesn't necessarily tell us exactly what to buy.
It gives us ideas.
What Can We Take From Ulla Johnson SS27?
For us, the biggest takeaway is balance.
You don't have to choose between feminine and practical.
You don't have to choose between relaxed and tailored.
You don't have to choose between traditional and contemporary.
You can have both.
A tailored jacket can be worn with denim.
A delicate blouse can sit underneath a structured coat.
A romantic dress can be balanced with something more utilitarian.
And a beautifully tailored garment can still feel completely relaxed.
Good style is about finding the balance that works for you.
Bespoke Through A Different Lens
Although Ulla Johnson's Spring/Summer 2027 collection isn't a traditional tailoring collection, there is plenty within it that can inspire bespoke clothing.
The use of soft fabrics.
The importance of proportion.
The contrast between structure and movement.
The relationship between colour and cloth.
The idea that a garment should express something about the person wearing it.
These principles apply just as much to bespoke tailoring as they do to fashion design.
And perhaps that's the most interesting thing about fashion week.
Inspiration doesn't always come from the suit.
Sometimes it comes from the way a designer thinks about clothing.
Our Favourite Part?
For us, it's the combination of soft tailoring and romantic detailing.
The cropped jackets.
The beautifully cut trenches.
The pastel palette.
The contrast between denim and delicate fabrics.
And the hand-painted details that gave some garments a sense of individuality.
But above all, we loved the fact that the collection didn't treat tailoring as something rigid.
It demonstrated that structure can be soft.
That tailoring can move.
And that a beautifully made garment doesn't have to feel overly formal.
What Do You Think?
What did you think of Ulla Johnson's Spring/Summer 2027 collection?
Are you a fan of the “urban pastoral” aesthetic?
Would you wear the soft tailoring, pastel colours and romantic detailing?
And what do you think about combining traditionally feminine pieces with denim and structured outerwear?
We'd love to know which look from the collection caught your eye.
Inspired by Ulla Johnson?
Fashion week may provide the inspiration, but your own wardrobe should ultimately reflect you.
At A Hand Tailored Suit, every bespoke garment is individually designed, patterned and cut around the wearer.
From bespoke two-piece and three-piece suits to tailored jackets, trousers, waistcoats, shirts and eveningwear, you can choose the cloth, colour, construction and finishing details that make your garment completely individual.
Because your clothes don't need to look like everybody else's.
They just need to look right on you. A Hand Tailored Suit
FLOWERS, FRINGE & A LITTLE BESPOKE MAGIC 🌸✂️
Ulla Johnson has proved that tailoring doesn't always have to be serious.
Sometimes it needs a little romance.
A little colour.
A little movement.
And possibly a flower painted on the hem of your trench coat.
We can't promise to put a garden on your next suit…
but we can promise to make sure the garden isn't growing inside your jacket. 😉
Until the next runway…
Stay inspired. Stay individual. Stay beautifully tailored.
— Off The Cuff | A Hand Tailored Suit 🪡
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