Paris Fashion Week, September/October 2025: Balenciaga

Paris Fashion Week ran from September 29th to October 7th, marking the culmination of a month-long fashion extravaganza that began in New York, before moving on to London and then Milan. September Fashion Weeks are designers' opportunities to showcase their Spring/Summer collections for the upcoming year. This year's top designers at PFW included Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Balmain, Chanel, and Hermes.

Pierpaolo Piccioli presented his highly anticipated debut collection as creative director for Balenciaga on October 5th. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection was showcased at the historic Laennec chapel, part of Balenciaga owner Kering's headquarters—a site that held special significance as it was where his predecessor Demna's retrospective took place just three months prior. Take a look at the full runway show below.

The collection was a masterclass in honoring heritage while establishing a fresh creative vision. The 56-year-old Italian designer, who spent 25 years at Valentino (eight as sole creative director), has become known throughout his career as one of fashion's great romantics—compassionate, humanist, and kind in his approach to design.

A Starry Front Row for a Historic Debut

The show attracted one of the most impressive front rows of the season. Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex, made her first-ever Paris Fashion Week appearance wearing a white cape draped across a silky shirt and floor-skimming trousers. She was joined by actors Anne Hathaway, Kristin Scott Thomas, and Krit Amnuaydechkorn (known to fans as PP Krit), as well as director Baz Luhrmann.

The setting itself was deeply symbolic. Returning to the chapel where Demna's achievements were recently celebrated marked a full circle moment that allowed Piccioli to acknowledge those who came before him while confidently moving forward with his own vision.

The Collection: Reconciling Past and Present

The opening look set the tone—a long, slinky black version of Balenciaga's infamous "sack" dress, styled with white gloves pulled up past the elbows and bedazzled wraparound visors covering half the model's face. This was followed by tops and skirts in bulbous shapes, a clear nod to the cocoon silhouette that cemented Balenciaga in fashion history.

Throughout the collection, Piccioli demonstrated his deep respect for the archive. Textured dresses featured exaggerated trains that billowed with each step. There were renditions of hit bags like the City and Rodeo, as well as newer models including a spin on a bowler bag with buckles featuring Balenciaga's BB monogram.

"I wanted to embrace what Demna had worked on… and have a sort of reconciliation between culture and streetwear and all of the past," explained Piccioli. "I think that to deny what has been done before is disrespectful. You have to be aware of the people who were here before you."

Piccioli's Romantic Touch

While paying homage to his predecessors, Piccioli's own sensibility shone through in pops of violet, cyan, and highlighter yellow. The designer has long been celebrated for his use of vibrant colors—during his Valentino tenure, he popularized electric pink, which became widely adopted on red carpets and influenced trends like "Barbiecore."

The collection featured leather jackets and experimental tops—some baring the midriff, others with V-shaped slits on both front and back. These pieces nodded to Demna's provocative, often viral streetwear-leaning creations while maintaining Piccioli's more refined aesthetic.

Craftsmanship and Comfort

Much like Cristóbal Balenciaga himself, who prioritized the comfort of the wearer above all else, Piccioli emphasized the materials and construction of his sculptural creations. He highlighted the use of gazar—a form of silk or wool fabric introduced by Balenciaga in partnership with Swiss textile company Abraham in 1958.

"It's made with two yarns rather than one," he explained. "The paradox is that it creates more structure but less weight," ensuring his designs remain light and easy to wear. That ease extended to the footwear, with some models wearing flat shoes with Y-shaped straps.

"I wanted to get this sense of freedom," Piccioli added, of the clothes—a fitting philosophy for a designer known for creating garments that celebrate the women who wear them.

What Was Your Favourite Moment from This Runway?

Did you enjoy Piccioli's debut collection for Balenciaga? Did you appreciate how he honored the house's rich archive while introducing his romantic sensibility? What did you think of the balance between heritage and innovation? Would you wear any of the pieces?

If you have an event, wedding, big birthday bash, or office occasion to attend, we can create custom masterpieces just for you – from overcoats to jackets and trousers, full suits to custom shirts, and more. Get in touch with our talented tailoring team today.