Paris Fashion Week, September/October 2025: Celine

Paris Fashion Week ran from September 29th to October 7th, marking the culmination of a month-long fashion extravaganza that began in New York, before moving on to London and then Milan. September Fashion Weeks are designers' opportunities to showcase their Spring/Summer collections for the upcoming year. This year's top designers at PFW included Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Balmain, Chanel, and Hermes.

Michael Rider presented his second collection as artistic director for Celine on October 5th. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection was showcased at Parc de Saint-Cloud, continuing the French-meets-preppy aesthetic he introduced in his debut show just three months earlier. Take a look at the full runway show below.

The collection was a natural continuation of Rider's July debut, as if the previous event was a chapter with no concrete end, but rather a slow summer interlude. The former Polo Ralph Lauren creative director, who was announced as Hedi Slimane's replacement almost a year ago, is implementing his vision for Celine at a galloping pace—his first collection hit stores just days before this second runway presentation.

Rewriting the Preppy Handbook

Rider's approach to Celine is distinctly transatlantic—oh-so French, but with a twinge of American. Think of the girl you went to college with who grew up abroad, the one with more than one passport, and you know it too. That's what gives Rider's styling an intangible global appeal.

The collection featured distinct styling and clear references to his predecessors. A shrunken babydoll dress with florals called back to Phoebe Philo's iconic prints from the end of her tenure, while leopard-print pieces nodded to the oft-recreated pink draped dress from that era.

Louche Suits and Youthful Nonchalance

While styling remained at the forefront of the designer's philosophy, the looks felt less laden with layers this time around. There were no thickly applied baubles here, but a more refined palette—think a coral necklace popping out of a blue button-down.

Riding helmets made their second appearance, and scarves abounded throughout the collection. The show featured notably less formalwear than his debut, with louche suits taking center stage. One purple sequined turtleneck dress shimmered like a crown jewel in a sea of relaxed tailoring; however, styled with Lennon sunglasses and simple leather sneakers, it fit perfectly into his mode of youthful nonchalance.

Confident and Assertive

After only a few months, Rider is off to the races. It's clear through his artistic direction that he is confident in the world he's building, in part because the identity he is tapping into mirrors his own transatlantic experience. Where he channels his American assertiveness, French style softens the sharper edges. Likewise, where he toes the line of being inspired by his Parisian home base, his own preppy handbook comes back into play.

Rider is enjoying exploring that balance, creating a Celine woman who is globally minded, effortlessly chic, and unapologetically herself.

What Was Your Favourite Moment from This Runway?

Did you enjoy Rider's second collection for Celine? Did you appreciate his French-meets-preppy aesthetic and transatlantic approach? What did you think of the refined styling and youthful energy? Would you wear any of the pieces?

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