Paris Fashion Week, September/October 2025: Chanel

Paris Fashion Week ran from September 29th to October 7th, marking the culmination of a month-long fashion extravaganza that began in New York, before moving on to London and then Milan. September Fashion Weeks are designers' opportunities to showcase their Spring/Summer collections for the upcoming year. This year's top designers at PFW included Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Balmain, Chanel, and Hermes.

Matthieu Blazy presented his highly anticipated debut collection as creative director for Chanel on October 7th. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection was showcased at the historic Grand Palais, bringing Paris Fashion Week to a dramatic close. Take a look at the full runway show below.

 

 

The collection was a masterclass in balancing heritage with innovation, as Blazy reimagined Chanel's iconic codes for a new generation. The 41-year-old French-Belgian designer, who previously led Bottega Veneta, has become only the fourth artistic director to ever helm the storied French house—following Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel herself, Karl Lagerfeld, and Virginie Viard.

A Cosmic Setting for a New Era

The Grand Palais was transformed into an entire solar system for the occasion. Enormous glowing planets hung overhead while others punctuated the venue's gleaming black floor, creating an otherworldly atmosphere. The impressive glass-domed building, which recently underwent a $500-million restoration partly funded by Chanel, provided a suitably grand stage for this momentous debut.

Stars including Margot Robbie, Penélope Cruz, Pedro Pascal, Ayo Edebiri, and Nicole Kidman sat front row, witnessing what many are calling one of the most significant fashion moments of the year.

The Collection: Movement, Craft, and Modernity

The show opened with a statement of intent—a boxy gray suit with a cropped jacket and rolled-up sleeves. The slouch of the suit was a subtle precursor to what was to come: a collection full of movement, energy, and youthful carelessness.

Blazy's approach to Chanel's classic codes was refreshingly modern. Boucle jackets were lighter and softer in silhouette. Black tweed jackets were embellished with white camellias—Coco Chanel's favorite flower—but reimagined with contemporary proportions. Throughout the collection, edges were frayed and raw, expressing a softness that felt both luxurious and lived-in.

The bags themselves told a story—scrunched up and half open, as if their contents were about to spill out onto the floor. This sense of spontaneity and movement defined the entire collection.

A Joyful Finale

As '90s anthem "Rhythm is a Dancer" filled the Grand Palais, the clothes came alive, slinking, swishing, and bouncing down the runway. The energizing dance track brought an infectious energy to the presentation, perfectly capturing Blazy's vision of a more relaxed, confident Chanel woman.

The final ensemble was pure joy—a colorful, voluminous skirt that looked like it had been crafted from shredded flowers and feathers, paired with a simple silk T-shirt. The contrast between the exuberant skirt and understated top encapsulated Blazy's approach: honoring Chanel's legacy while injecting it with fresh, youthful energy.

The audience gave Blazy a standing ovation as he took his first bow for Chanel—a fitting tribute to a designer who has been praised throughout his career for putting craft at the center of his design practice.

What Was Your Favourite Moment from This Runway?

Did you enjoy Blazy's debut collection for Chanel? Did you appreciate how he modernized the house's iconic codes while respecting its heritage? What did you think of the cosmic setting and the energy of the presentation? Would you wear any of the pieces?

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