Paris Fashion Week, September/October 2025: Mugler

Paris Fashion Week ran from September 29th to October 7th, marking the culmination of a month-long fashion extravaganza that began in New York, before moving on to London and then Milan. September Fashion Weeks are designers' opportunities to showcase their Spring/Summer collections for the upcoming year. This year's top designers at PFW included Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Balmain, Chanel, and Hermes.

Miguel Castro Freitas presented his highly anticipated debut collection as creative director for Mugler on October 3rd. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection, titled "Stardust Aphrodite," was showcased in a stark underground parking garage in Paris—a bold setting choice that reimagined the house's iconic codes through sculptural tailoring and showgirl glamour. Take a look at the full runway show below.

 

The collection marked the first chapter in what Freitas calls the "Trilogy of Glorified Clichés," offering a cerebral take on showgirl glamour that honors founder Thierry Mugler's pioneering legacy of blending fashion with entertainment.

A Star-Studded Celebration

The front row was packed with Hollywood royalty, including Elizabeth Berkley, star of the camp classic "Showgirls," and Pamela Anderson, who recently donned full Las Vegas regalia for her turn as a retiring dancer in "The Last Showgirl." Their presence underscored the collection's thematic focus on the life of a showgirl—a fitting tribute to Thierry Mugler's own cabaret revue "Mugler Follies."

The timing couldn't be more perfect. With fashion closely tracking album releases and cultural moments, showgirl aesthetics are poised to dominate 2025 runways, much like cowboy culture defined the previous year.

The Collection: Tailoring Meets Theatricality

Rather than simply quoting the vintage Mugler showstoppers that have become popular red carpet outfits for celebrities like Cardi B and Kim Kardashian, Freitas leaned into the house's tailoring heritage. His hourglass silhouettes in sober shades of camel and beige evoked Mugler's iconic "Insects" collection, but with a contemporary twist.

Vinyl skirts and dress pants came with low, padded waistbands, creating dramatic proportions. Nude bodystockings underpinned many of the looks, adding a layer of sensuality beneath the structured pieces. The collection featured sculptural tailoring, sheer bodysuits, and matte finishes that felt both modern and rooted in Mugler's DNA.

Touches of Camp Glamour

Freitas sprinkled in touches of camp glamour throughout the collection, paying homage to Mugler's love of Hollywood's golden age. The "Too Funky" feather headdress worn by Linda Evangelista made an appearance, as did a nude dress with a Ginger Rogers-style ostrich feather skirt—pieces that captured the theatrical spirit of the house.

Set against the industrial backdrop of a Paris parking garage, the show reimagined Mugler's iconic seduction through a lens that felt both raw and refined. The stark setting allowed the clothes to take center stage, highlighting every sculptural detail and dramatic silhouette.

A New Chapter for Mugler

Freitas' debut represents a thoughtful evolution for the house—one that respects Thierry Mugler's revolutionary vision while introducing a fresh perspective. The collection balanced the founder's reverence for the female form with contemporary sensibilities, creating pieces that feel both timeless and of-the-moment.

As the first chapter in the "Trilogy of Glorified Clichés," "Stardust Aphrodite" sets an intriguing foundation for what's to come. Freitas has proven he can honor Mugler's theatrical legacy while carving out his own creative territory.

What Was Your Favourite Moment from This Runway?

Did you enjoy Freitas' debut collection for Mugler? Did you appreciate his cerebral take on showgirl glamour and the balance between tailoring and theatricality? What did you think of the underground parking garage setting? Would you wear any of the pieces?

If you have an event, wedding, big birthday bash, or office occasion to attend, we can create custom masterpieces just for you – from overcoats to jackets and trousers, full suits to custom shirts, and more. Get in touch with our talented tailoring team today.