The busy fashion month kicked off with the busy Paris Menswear Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22-23. Taking place between the 18th and 23rd January 2022, many designers took to the runway to present their take on the upcoming end-of-year seasons, some designs quite classic and others very unique - and of course, some sharp tailoring pieces. Let's take a look at some of the collections, starting with:
Runway - 19th January 2022
The collection featured many oversized garments which has been very much, a popular trend over the last few years; but combining popularity with timeless designs was key on the runway. As the three models above are wearing, houndstooth and puppytooth was a common pattern, the first coat styled in two different ways. With notch lapels, boxy shoulders and two-button fastening, the first look is styled over an oversized jacket. The same styling continues in the second outfit with it incorporated into a brighter look with pink trousers and purple jacket, showing how versatile this blazer can be. The third outfit is a puppytooth short casual jacket with relaxed shoulders and large patch pockets near the bottom and black buttons for the fastening.
The brighter colours seen in Spring/Summer can always be styled well to work for Autumn/Winter, and this collection didn't shy away from that. Neon colours appear to be making a comeback, with neon green, pink and orange involved in a number of looks. All three blazers of each colour are designed with a one-button fastening, contrasting peak lapels (which enhance the impact of the bright colours more), four-button cuffs and flapped pockets. To minimise the impact of the neon shades, one look involved a grey long overcoat with flapped and welt pockets, notch lapels and a three-button front layered over a neon green jacket and skirt. The oversized shoulders make it a strong look, but that pop of neon green makes it more of a statement.
With the colder weather comes a compulsory overcoat that keeps you warm and cosy, whilst also being quite versatile. Along with the houndstooth overcoats, these designs vary from single to double-breasted pieces that will be stylish for many years. The stone mac coat shown in the first image incorporates a wide classic collar with sleeve belts, the loose fit of the item cinched in with the matching tie belt and for that extra statement, the pop of neon pink just showing underneath the hem. The white overcoat is paired with a chunky cable knit underneath for extra warmth, whilst the grey coat is worn over the top of an orange suit and the black double-breasted coat with four buttons over a dark V-neck and two-piece suit.
Runway - 23rd January 2022
One of the runways to end the Paris Menswear Fashion Week was from the luxury brand KENZO, showcasing a variety of looks that would definitely look cool for the commute to work. The look above is a great example, with the model sporting a dark shade of green over a grey checked two piece suit. The style of the jacket is quite classic with the high chest and short notch lapels, the three-button front spaced out and finished with a curved hem. The trousers are slim with a flat front and the hem brushing the casual suede shoes. Styled with a white shirt, thin grey tie and the coat lined in a red/grey plaid design, it's a look that suggests dressing smart doesn't always have to be sharp: it can be relaxed for a cooler finish.
A pop of colour on a classic tailored suit always works wonders, and these have been given the subtle modern twist. Each jacket is designed with a panelling design, either combining two or three colours into once piece. The first model sports a mid-grey suit with the highest point of the jacket made in a light blue, capturing the blue/grey hues of the overall look. The second is a forest green/grey number with bright baby pink filling in the same portion of the jacket, enhanced through the accessorising of the smart pink shirt and thin tie. The third example is a three-colour combination of black, grey for the mid-section and baby pink for the top, accessorising with pink the same way. It's very effective the use of a grey background and black buttons on the top to give the look more depth.
Never underestimate the power of trousers when mixing up your standard suit and jacket look, and maybe don't be afraid to really mix up the variety of patterns when going casual. Thin striped trousers like the first pair are definitely a statement, but so are a pair of plain sand chinos with belt loops that will go very well with a grey sports blazer for a chic approach. A pair of grey and red checked trousers will look great either as a completed suit or own their own, styled with a plain polo neck. It's not always showers and snow in the Autumn/Winter too, so capturing the essence of blue skies and winter sun in your sartorial outfit will brighten your day and make for bold all-year round pieces. If those trousers aren't unique enough for you, then maybe a white two-piece illustrated suit will be. After all, a suit can be a blank canvas until the individuality is added.
Runway - 21st January 2022
Make sure to wrap up warm for Autumn/Winter 22/23 as the collection of Paul Smith showcased on the runway. There were a variety of coats, including these three different patterned pieces that are all bold but good colour combinations. The first coat is a blue gingham check overcoat that finished just below knee-length and appears to have raglan sleeves with a classic collar. With no visible pockets on the front and the coat draped over the shoulders, it's a bold choice, much like the second knee-length coat with a marble style print. Raglan sleeves are also featured within this design with an invisible centre fastening and collar that's fastened with a button. Combined with the plaid check trousers underneath, it's a cool pattern duo also seen in the third look. The model wears a zipped jacket underneath in the same pattern whilst over the top, wears a blue plaid check duffle coat with leather panelling. The hints of green running through the weave simply enhance the check print.
Layering is vital in the colder weather, so why not have your two-piece suit as the top layer? With flapped pockets sitting waist level and a single-button fastening, the jacket is worn over the top of a blue, green and black printed shirt with a short zip. The collar is folded out and over the jacket, capturing the shirt colours through parallel stripes. Underneath that is a black roll neck for extra cool vibes, whilst the notch lapels on the jacket and subtle centre crease on the trousers make for a casual yet smart bit of tailoring.
Double-breasted attire is always smart and there were a few smart double-breasted choices within this collection. The first out of the two looks above is a grey checked double-breasted overcoat with a four-button front, flapped pockets also included and peak lapels being the great choice. The length of the coat falls to the knees and looks very dapper with the posing of one hand tucked into the navy blue trouser pocket. The blue, black and white zig-zag jumper top underneath combines all the colours in the look well and makes it a sharp cohesive piece. The second attire features a darker grey double-breasted suit with a four-button front also and curved hem. Much like the blue gingham check coat, this burgundy number is draped over the shoulders for sartorial elegance and extra coolness, designed with notch lapels and three visible buttons for the front fastening.
Classic elements of tailoring can be instantly transformed into strong, contemporary pieces like this trench coat in the Wooyoungmi collection. In the popular camel collar, the storm flap feature can be seen low down on the chest and cut in its double-breasted form with six buttons on the front. The sleeve belts are unfastened and through the shoulder epaulettes, look to be what is the sleeve belt filtering through for a unique style. The flapped patch pockets are sharp with the maxi-length of the piece also bringing a statement to the runway, as trench coats traditionally do.
From wearing knitwear under the blazer to wearing it over the top, this was a key style that stood out during the runway, and these three looks were prime examples of just that. The red and pink cropped sleeveless knit is worn over the top of a double-breasted beige blazer with flapped pockets and loose-fitting trousers, contrasting the woolly texture of the crew neck knit. The element of contrasting textures is shown in the second look, with dark blue denim worn underneath a sky blue V-neck knit, and the third look comprising of a cream half-neck knitted jumper over a black two-piece suit - variety and autumn layering made contemporary.
From neutral shades to vibrant pieces, the variety of coats was vast as the first one here is a magenta single-breasted piece with dropped shoulders and a wide collar. The seams are noticeable for extra texture and definition as it can be fastened with five buttons on the front and a pocket flap either side. The pockets are consistent throughout the second and third design as a separate diagonal fastening attaches from the inside for a unique design. The last stone coloured jacket features an element seen on other looks: the sharp symmetrical panels with a small gold buckle joining them that seem to filter down from the folded collar. They give the illusion of peak lapels, cleverly paired with the casual fit and shape of the jacket and its large patch pocket on the one side.
There was definitely a great range of modern and traditional tailoring elements within a few collections during Paris Menswear fashion week, some we can expect to see increase in popularity as we reach the A/W22 season. Check out some other dapper pieces below, including some lovely autumnal colours from Hermes and more modern oversized blazers from LGN.
Make sure to check back and view the latest from the catwalks in the upcoming February fashion month on our blog, including the latest from the upcoming February fashion month, starting with Copenhagen Fashion Week!
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