Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027 – Anthony Vaccarello Goes for Gold
Paris Fashion Week | Spring/Summer 2027
Gold.
Lots of gold.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Anthony Vaccarello transformed Saint Laurent into a shimmering celebration of the house's heritage, glamour and unmistakable Parisian attitude.
Presented at the Trocadéro with the Eiffel Tower glowing gold behind the runway, the collection marked ten years since Vaccarello took the creative reins at Saint Laurent.
Under enormous chandeliers, models walked through a vision of golden tailoring, shimmering dresses, sharp shoulders, trench coats and elongated silhouettes.
It was dramatic.
It was glamorous.
And, in true Saint Laurent fashion, it was undeniably confident.
For Off The Cuff, however, it was the tailoring that caught our attention.
The Golden Setting
Fashion shows don't come much more Parisian than this.
Saint Laurent took over the Trocadéro fountain, directly opposite the Eiffel Tower, with the monument itself illuminated in gold.
Above the runway hung enormous chandeliers, creating the atmosphere of an extravagant ballroom.
The set was itself a reference to Saint Laurent history, echoing the ballroom of the Hôtel InterContinental Paris Le Grand, where Yves Saint Laurent presented couture collections for many years.
The effect was almost theatrical.
And that was precisely the point.
This was not simply a Spring/Summer collection.
It felt like a celebration.
The Midas Touch
If there was one colour dominating the collection, it was gold.
From pale champagne through to deep antique gold, Vaccarello explored the shade across an extraordinary variety of fabrics and textures.
Gold dresses.
Gold jackets.
Gold trench coats.
Gold skirts.
Gold tailoring.
Even accessories and details received the treatment.
Reports noted that 49 of the collection's 59 looks were presented in gold, making the colour less of an accent and more of an entire visual language.
But this wasn't simply metallic gold.
The variation came through the fabrics.
Lamé, organza, lace, brocade, jacquard and metallic cotton created completely different interpretations of the same colour.
Some shimmered.
Some absorbed the light.
Some appeared almost liquid.
And some looked deliberately aged.
Gold Meets Tailoring
For a tailoring business, this is where the collection became particularly interesting.
Vaccarello took the established Saint Laurent vocabulary of strong shoulders, narrow waists and long, lean proportions and gave it a golden makeover.
Sharp-collared jackets appeared alongside brocade skirts.
Tailored coats were transformed through metallic surfaces.
Safari jackets became evening pieces.
And the traditional Saint Laurent silhouette remained remarkably consistent underneath all the shine.
This is an important point.
The collection may have looked extravagant, but the underlying construction was disciplined.
The drama came from proportion and fabric.
The Saint Laurent Shoulder
The shoulder has always been an important part of Saint Laurent's tailoring language.
Vaccarello continued that tradition with strong, structured shoulders throughout the collection.
The effect creates an instantly recognisable silhouette.
Broad above.
Narrow through the waist.
Long through the body.
It is powerful without necessarily being oversized.
For bespoke tailoring, the lesson is obvious.
A shoulder doesn't need to be enormous to create presence.
The relationship between the shoulder, chest, waist and sleeve determines the entire personality of a jacket.
Get that balance right and the garment does the talking.
The Return of the Safari Jacket
Another familiar Saint Laurent code returned for Spring/Summer 2027: the safari jacket.
But rather than presenting it purely as practical outerwear, Vaccarello elevated it.
Gold safari jackets appeared alongside matching skirts and other glamorous pieces.
It was a reminder of Yves Saint Laurent's long-standing relationship with travel, Morocco and exotic influences.
The founder first visited Morocco in 1966 and returned frequently to Marrakech, where the city became an important source of inspiration for his work.
The safari jacket therefore isn't simply another fashion trend.
It is part of the house's DNA.
Trench Coats – With a Golden Twist
The trench coat also appeared in the collection, reinforcing another important Saint Laurent principle:
Take something practical and make it glamorous.
Vaccarello's trenches retained their familiar architectural qualities while being transformed through shimmering surfaces and rich colour.
It's an approach that works particularly well in bespoke tailoring.
A classic garment doesn't necessarily need to be redesigned from scratch.
Sometimes the most effective transformation comes from changing the cloth.
The Long, Lean Silhouette
Throughout the collection, proportions remained elongated.
Pencil skirts followed the body.
Jackets emphasised the waist.
Long scarves streamed behind models.
And coats created an almost column-like silhouette.
The effect was sensual without relying solely on revealing clothing.
It was about line.
That is something tailoring understands better than most forms of fashion.
A good suit creates a visual line from shoulder to trouser.
Change that line and you change the entire impression of the wearer.
The Power of Black
After the extraordinary procession of gold came a dramatic change.
The final ten looks were presented in black.
The contrast was immediate.
After almost an entire collection bathed in gold, black suddenly felt even more powerful.
The silhouettes became more dramatic, with flowing gowns, billowing sleeves and sweeping trains closing the show.
It was a reminder that Saint Laurent doesn't actually need gold to make an entrance.
The house already has one of fashion's most powerful colours.
Black.
Le Smoking Still Matters
Saint Laurent's relationship with black tailoring is, of course, legendary.
Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking tuxedo for women, introduced in 1966, became one of the defining garments of the house.
Vaccarello had already devoted his Autumn/Winter 2026 collection to the 60th anniversary of Le Smoking.
For Spring/Summer 2027, he widened the conversation to encompass more of the Saint Laurent wardrobe – from safari jackets and trenches to blouses, pencil skirts and strong-shouldered tailoring.
Yet the tuxedo remains at the heart of the Saint Laurent identity.
And that is perhaps the ultimate lesson in brand heritage.
Some garments become more than garments.
They become signatures.
A Decade of Anthony Vaccarello
This collection had an additional layer of significance.
Vaccarello's first Saint Laurent show took place in September 2016.
Spring/Summer 2027 therefore marked his tenth anniversary at the house.
There has been considerable speculation surrounding his future, and several fashion publications interpreted the show and finale as potentially marking his departure. Saint Laurent and Kering had not, at the time of the show, officially confirmed that this was his final collection.
Whatever happens next, the symbolism of the collection was difficult to ignore.
Ten years.
Gold.
The Eiffel Tower.
A dramatic finale.
And Vaccarello taking his bow in a classic black Saint Laurent suit.
Charlotte Gainsbourg's Finale
The final moments added another layer of emotion.
Charlotte Gainsbourg, long associated with Saint Laurent, stepped onto the runway and performed as the collection reached its finale.
She wore a classic black Saint Laurent suit.
Vaccarello later joined her before taking his final bow to a standing ovation.
It was an unusually theatrical ending for a fashion show.
But then again, this was never intended to be an ordinary fashion show.
What Can Bespoke Tailoring Take From Saint Laurent SS27?
There is plenty here for the bespoke tailoring world.
1. Strong Shoulders Still Have Power
A beautifully constructed shoulder can transform a suit.
It creates posture, presence and balance.
2. Proportion Is Everything
Saint Laurent's long, lean silhouette demonstrates how much can be achieved simply through proportion.
Jacket length, trouser width, shoulder shape and waist suppression all work together.
3. Don't Underestimate the Cloth
Gold was the headline.
But the real story was the variety of surfaces and textures.
The right cloth can completely transform a familiar cut.
4. Classics Can Be Reinterpreted
The safari jacket, trench coat and tuxedo are all established garments.
Vaccarello simply gives them a different context.
5. Black Never Really Goes Out of Fashion
After all the gold, the collection ended in black.
Sometimes the most dramatic statement is also the simplest.
The Off The Cuff Take
Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027 collection was fashion theatre at its most extravagant.
But beneath the gold, chandeliers and Eiffel Tower spectacle was something much more familiar:
excellent tailoring.
The strong shoulder.
The defined waist.
The elongated line.
The trench.
The safari jacket.
The tuxedo.
These are not new ideas.
And that is precisely why they work.
Vaccarello understands the Saint Laurent vocabulary and knows how to manipulate it without losing its identity.
For Off The Cuff, the biggest takeaway isn't necessarily the gold.
It is the reminder that great tailoring is about creating a recognisable silhouette before you even consider the fabric.
Get the cut right and you can dress it in black.
You can dress it in gold.
You can dress it in anything.
The silhouette still speaks.
Watch Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027
Watch the full Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027 show from Paris Fashion Week:
Watch Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027 on YouTube
Off The Cuff
From Yves Saint Laurent's original tailoring revolution to Anthony Vaccarello's contemporary interpretation, the house continues to demonstrate why tailoring remains one of fashion's most powerful languages.
Because trends come and go.
Gold comes and goes.
Even creative directors come and go.
But a beautifully cut jacket?
That's considerably harder to replace.
A Little Off The Cuff…
Saint Laurent went to Paris, switched on the Eiffel Tower, hung enormous chandeliers and covered almost everything in gold.
At A Hand Tailored Suit, we considered doing the same.
Then we remembered what the dry-cleaning bill would look like.
So we'll stick with navy.
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— Off The Cuff A Hand Tailored Suit ✂️
