The Closing Stages of Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22 | A Hand Tailored Suit

The Closing Stages of Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22

Before fashion month would continue to Paris and bring the famous fashion month to a close, it's time to review some of the stand-out runways and tailoring featured from the closing stages of Milan Fashion Week.

Ambush

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Runway - 26th February 2022

The tailoring in this collection was very sharp and modern as this particular outfit depicts. The model wears a teal green outfit that includes a very long overcoat which almost brushes the floor, worn over the matching blazer. A very long single vent features at the back which, as the model walks, flares open for extra drama on the runway whilst the sharp and wide peak lapels on the coat deliver the same effect. The jacket underneath is designed with contrasting lapels made from satin for a deeper teal tone to give the look more depth and the metallic buttons on both garments strengthen the minimalist style.

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There were a few ensembles that focused heavily on a stripe print in the suit such as these particular looks; but stripes and tailoring go well when wanting to elongate the silhouette. The first look includes a few shades of blue in the design whilst cut into a single-breasted blazer with notch lapels and shoulders that are slightly oversized. The second look is similar with the stripe design and includes a few shades of brown in the cloth; but this time, the cloth is cut into a cropped jacket and slim trousers. The jacket includes three large buttons on the front for the fastening, short notch lapels and padded shoulders with thin double jet pockets on the front of the trousers. The matching stripes work well together; but the collection also included combining the classic pinstripe with lighter striped sleeves for a more modern finish.

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The silhouette and style of this jacket was very much a statement as the models above wore a navy blue and black version. The shoulders are again oversized and hang below the natural shoulder point which helps to strengthen the sharp shape. The waist is fitted, creating the bottom to then flare out down to the hem as the bottom two buttons are left undone. Box pleated patch pockets with button down flaps are the preferred choice, whilst contrasting zipped pockets sit on the chest and border the notch lapels nicely. The collars are contrasting to add more dimension.

Jil Sander

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Runway - 26th February 2022

The collection of Jil Sander during Milan Fashion Week focused on simplicity, allowing the finer details in tailoring to really be noticed and admired as they are in these looks above. The jacket in the first look is longer on the one side to allow for the beautiful floral embellishment to be displayed, whilst the last look in this earthy green shade is cut in a double-breasted silhouette and its details (pockets and buttons) to match in the same cloth to really highlight the texture. The texture in the second look with the maxi overcoat is soft yet lively, whilst the third look focuses on how the cloth can be cut to create a tailored jacket that's unique on the shoulders, looking like a detachable cape.

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The colour scheme of these looks were delicate and soft; but a few warmer shades were thrown into the mix to really give the collection variety. This mustard yellow two-piece suit is a perfect match and a great autumnal colour, made even sharper through the covered button placket white shirt and noticeable oversized collar that sits over the shoulders. The jacket includes just the one button for the fastening in the single-breasted shape, the sleeves featuring sharp creases just as the flared trousers do also; but the detail that's quite cool is the positioning of the pockets. They sit almost level with the waist to leave a high opening underneath the button, whilst the lower edge of the pocket flap is straight and the top edge curved for a cool finish.

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The statement collar continued throughout a few designs, including this rather chic brown belted coat. The length is maxi as the matching coat belt cinches in the waist on this double-breasted piece. In the one column are at least three buttons whilst the other is asymmetric with six buttons closest to the front edge. The design is simple but sleek and makes for a sophisticated autumnal coat.

Luisa Spagnoli

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Runway - 27th February 2022

It was all about the monochrome trend in the Luisa Spagnoli collection, filled with vibrant colours that would definitely brighten up any gloomy Autumn/Winter days. This particular outfit includes a cropped double-breasted yellow jacket with broad shoulders that fall straight down to create a sharp right-angle. The brass buttons were arranged in a 3x3 formation with another one on each welt pocket that feature, helping to highlight the functional detail.

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Orange is always a colour associated with Autumn, and this was a great colour for the cut and style of jacket. It's a double-breasted piece with eight buttons on the front (4x4 formation) and button down pockets on the side, sitting on an angle. Sleeve belts feature on the cuffs, fastened with a black belt to complement the horn buttons. The notch lapels are short and the collar very tall to mirror the high ribbed neck of the jumper underneath. The shoulders are fitted and are rounded nicely with the shoulder epaulettes a subtle detail to add extra height.

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If the vivid colours weren't making up the main construction of the suit, they would feature in the accessories, as the look above shows. The model wears a Prince of Wales check two-piece suit that's cut in the double-breasted form and paired with matching slim trousers. The pocket flaps are angled to ensure they stand out more, whilst the peak lapels are wide and sit over the sleeves. With six black buttons on the front, the chunky red belt is fastened across the waist and cinches in the blazer for an extra sharp finish.

Giorgio Armani

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Runway - 27th February 2022

The tailored blazers and suits were varied in the Giorgio Armani collection, ranging from different colours and patterns; but some looks were kept sharp and sleek to become more of a statement. Both suits here are double-breasted, designed with a four-button front and notch lapels with thin double jet pockets near the bottom. The shoulders were tailored and slightly rounded for an extra bit of height whilst giving a bit of attention to the different collars on the shirts underneath, one narrow and one classic. The trousers were styled differently too to show the versatility of suits, the first look slightly cropped on the leg for the boots and the other look with the hem draping over the top. Amongst that was the black vest worn underneath too, one being a V-neck and the other indicated as double-breasted through the contrasting lapels overlapping.

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From a simplistic suit to a simplistic coat that really enhances the details, this white overcoat falls to just above the ankles and is strong through the double-breasted front with ten buttons (5x5 formation). The collar is standard and doesn't take any attention away from the overall look as it all works together very well. The seams are noticeable on the front for that extra defining finish as the shoulders are strong and padded, falling into sleeves with a bit of added shape. Black binding around the collar and front edge of the coat really adds to the statement factor.

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The colour scheme of the collection was a bit monochrome or muted; but a few bright colours and patterns were displayed whilst not overpowering the overall show. The first look is an example of such, a soft pink jacket paired with patterned trousers that features muted shades of blue, grey and the matching pink to give it a cohesive finish. The style of earrings almost make the jacket like quite vintage - 1960's vintage - as the collar stands upright to create a V-shape when fastened. It is fastened at the top before falling into a tall notch hem with four buttons exposed on the one side. The shoulders are tailored yet padded, just as they are in the next look with this artistic printed blazer. The colours are again muted but with a pop of coral pink to brighten it up as the texture in the print replicates pencilwork, pastels or brushstrokes. Notch lapels sit on the front of this one-button design, a welt pocket on the chest and a buttonhole embroidered into the one lapel.

And just like that, Milan Fashion Week has come to a close. There's been a great range of tailoring showcased on the runway and we can't wait to see what fine examples will feature in the French capital of Paris, marking the end of fashion month. What's been your favourite collection? Check out more you may have missed from MFW, including luxurious velvet designs from Ermanno Scervino and striking ensembles from Han Kjobenhavn.

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Want more fashion month content? Check back on our blog for the final runways of fashion month, as delivered straight from the French capital for Paris Fashion Week!

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