The Finale to New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22 | A Hand Tailored Suit

The Finale to New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22

It certainly has been a fantastic New York Fashion Week when it started on the 11th February; but as the week came to a close, it continued to deliver with more astounding looks and exemplary tailoring. If you want to catch up on the days prior in New York Fashion Week, click here to have a read! Now it's time to view some of the final collections and closing shows.

Gabriela Hearst

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Runway - 15th February 2022

The autumnal colour palette was definitely prominent in the Gabriela Hearst collection on the penultimate day of New York Fashion Week, with pieces made in a lovely soft peach or oranges and yellows involved in striped pieces for extra impact. Showcased on the runway were a variety of knitted pieces, coat styles and a few suits too, including a number of dresses and skirts. The vibrancy of the red in the overcoat in the third look is so dramatic against the black jumper and trousers the model wears underneath, whilst the yellow mac coat is unmissable.

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Whether a single-breasted or double-breasted suit is the preference, the collection had a good variety. The first suit above is a two-piece double-breasted number in a soft orange shade, designed with pale horn buttons to match the effect of the orange colour. Flapped pockets sit below the waist and the peak lapels are wide, sitting flat against the chest on the six-button front. The trousers are tapered and finish above the ankle with a centre crease highlighting the sharp lines. The same refinement is visible on the black double-breasted blazer for a classic black suit, whilst the two-piece yellow suit with notch lapels is made with a two-button front. The lemon crew neck underneath the jacket is a great yellow shade to complement the suit.

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There were a great number of overcoat choices to choose from in this collection that stood out; but these two were very effective indeed. The first is a clever combination of knitted patterns that drape around the shoulders and with piece the model holds. The coat itself is double-breasted with matching buttons as the collar and notch lapels are styled over the top of the knitted panels. The belt portrays the cool construction of the coat as the top is made with the patterned fabric, so too are the sleeve belts. In contrast, the black maxi-length trench coat is lifted through the delicate floral design that's seen down the sides. It includes all the classic features - storm flaps, shoulder epaulettes, sleeve belts and a wide collar - but the angled pockets include a button flap and the fabric belt is tied as the ends drape down.

Peter Do

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Runway - 15th February 2022

The collection from Peter Do was very heavily based around tailoring as many suits and coats were included, the designs interpreted in a modern way and made to just stand out more from the classic lines of tailored garments. The final look above is definitely very oversized and immediately has that impact; yet the detail that's quite niche is the large windowpane check design that looks similar to baste stitching in bespoke tailoring or stitches involved in making garments overall. Colour blocking was also a theme in this collection just like in the first and third looks, whilst keeping the outfit just one colour meant for a very chic piece.

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Contrasting lapels and collars are always guaranteed to have that statement style, so it definitely worked in this particular look. The white jacket is tailored to fit, slightly boxy on the shoulders but the fit at the waist enhances the sharp silhouette further. The flapped pockets sit on the one side and the hem is very sharp as the large black collar and lapels sit over the jacket's. With a wide leg shape to the trousers, a subtle centre crease can be seen and for sure, the shape is outlined more through the black satin draping down either side of the suit.

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It was like tailoring was deconstructed but made to look so chic in these looks, as the backs appear to be missing and the front secured with the thin ribbon belt fastened in the centre. The dark brown piece has a very wide collar that drapes over the shoulders whilst paired with subtle peak lapels, also cut very wide. The trousers underneath and made with side pockets which the model shows, the same with the second look showing the use of pockets on the trousers. With notch lapels instead on the sleeveless garment, a matching grey jacket looks to be draped around the arms and therefore, showing off the great tailoring lines.

Prabal Gurung

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Runway - 16th February 2022

The Prabal Gurung collection took to the runway on the final day of New York Fashion Week and was a lovely balance of glamorous dresses mixed with some stunning examples of tailoring, this red look being one of them. Instantly, the look is elevated through the intricate floral embroidery and beading embellishment that's seen on the sleeves and jacket front. Across the shoulders is where the pattern can also be seen as it falls gently behind the notch lapels where as well, the embellishment is added. With the curved hem and angled flapped pockets outlined with the decoration, the blazer is fastened with a matching frog fastener across the centre, almost perfectly central on the jacket front.

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Tweed appeared across a couple of the collection's looks including the first piece above, cut in a two-piece set with a cut-out waistband on the trousers and frayed edges on the jacket for extra texture. The jacket was a cropped length so as not to hide the style of the trousers, whilst the cuffs were double layered, as noticed through the fraying material across the top edge. A hint of silver can be seen on the jacket as the second jacket and skirt look also uses silver in its embellishment. The design is symmetrical on this crew neck blazer with decorative cuffs and padded shoulders whilst in the third look, we see notch lapels once more in a two-piece suit with flared cropped trousers that shimmers on the runway through the subtle pattern.

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Coats in the Autumn/Winter season should be very practical and keep the wearer warm; but that doesn't mean it can't look luxurious. It's a maxi-length camel piece with notch lapels and a wide collar, flapped pockets that sit on the hips and a popper fastening to close the coat. The sleeve cuffs are designed with a curved slit which is edged in cream embroidery to really make it elegant. Throughout the coat, elements of embroidery and embellishment can be seen as the pattern is symmetrical and designed to add a soft shape to the tailored structure for a real chic yet signature look.

Social-Work

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Presentation - 16th February 2022

The interpretation for Autumn/Winter 22 by the brand Social-Work was one that involved effortless styling and tailoring features that are sophisticated but graceful. The look above shows the model wearing a very autumnal coloured outfit, made up of a camel overcoat and dark brown trousers. The texture of the coat can really be seen through the close-up on the cuffs, arranged in a four-button style; but instead of using traditional buttons, small pearlescent roses were in their place to match the rose ceramic button on the front. The shoulders were softly padded and the flapped pockets sat on the hips as the panelling of the A-line coat can be seen. The trousers were also flared to strengthen the quite retro look.

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Styling a blazer over a dress is a definitely a very chic outfit as the first look shows and as the jacket is longer in the body, it elongates the model's silhouette. Sharp peak lapels can be seen with a four-button front on the double-breasted garment. Flapped pockets sit level with the gaps inbetween the button columns and for the finishing touch, the classic padded shoulders which are always a great finish to a blazer attire. The model in the second outfit wears a leather/pleather two-piece with the collection's signature rose button on the front and trousers sitting high on the waist. The trousers widen from the hip down into a subtle flared hem which also conveys the style of the collection well.

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From the grey double-breasted blazer to a stylish cream version, this number is made with four light horn buttons on the front and flapped pockets. The peak lapels are kept sharp and crisp to complement the shoulderline. Showing underneath the jacket's straight hem is a ruched hem line that raises up on just the one side, almost mirroring the arrangement of rose petals, which is a real fitting touch to the ensemble. The details were really immaculate and clean in this collection, and these images really allow the collection to be appreciate more.

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New York Fashion Week ended on a brilliant high and as London Fashion Week begins to show its take on what will Autumn/Winter 22 will have in store, these collections have been very inspiring to look at! What was your favourite from the week? There was more from the closing days of New York too, including some fancy suits and jackets from the Badgley Mischka collection, along with contrasting lapel designs on the Marrisa Wilson runway.

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Want more fashion month content? Check back on our blog for more of the latest runways and looks from this busy February fashion month and the upcoming London Fashion Week!

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