The Last Days of London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22 | A Hand Tailored Suit

The Last Days of London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22

The final days of London Fashion Week AW22 had arrived to what had been another great week of fashion delivered from the capital. More fine examples of tailoring were spotted and before fashion month jetted off to Milan, let's delve into some of the eye-catching runways from the closing stages of London Fashion Week.

Paul and Joe

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Runway - 21st February 2022

This collection was a tailoring dream with the huge variety of patterned suits and cloth selections on the runway for the Paul and Joe collection. There were double-breasted suits, single-breasted styles, jacket with peak lapels or contrasting notch lapels - like the lace design on the blue/green tartan number - whilst also showcasing a variety in pocket styles on the jackets; it was a collection that embodied the London style on suits, one that was groovy and iconic.

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Making a trip to the countryside even fancier with this particular ensemble in the collection as the model wears a brown tweed check jacket over the top of a either a garment with a feather trim or is made from white feathers. The weave of the jacket could be herringbone as hints or orange are seen in the check, making it a classic look. The patch pockets are a suitable size at the bottom as the pocket flaps are finished with a beautiful white lace, linking to the high neck collar with the same design. The silhouette of the jacket is double-breasted with eight black buttons on the front (4x4), styled with a thin black belt in the middle and a great shape across the shoulders for a practical yet popular country tweed jacket.

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From country attire to dapper evening pieces, this velvet two-piece will fit the bill. The model walks the runway in a soft blue two-piece that's enhanced through the luxurious diamond check design running throughout. From a distance, it looks to be either embellishment or an intricate floral design as the shoulders are padded and the shawl collar is made in a contrasting black satin. Thin double jet pockets are incorporated into the jacket from with a low one-button placement to elongate the body. A welt pocket also sits on the chest whilst on the trousers, a subtle centre crease features to highlight the pristine tailoring but also capture the shine of the material. The hem sits high above the ankle as a white shirt with a narrow collar completes the look.

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The suits were very cool; but so too were the overcoats featured on the runway, these two above being perfect examples of such. The first is a maxi-length double-breasted design constructed from a woollen dark blue check cloth with a hint of grey to the shade. It's very much a cohesive look as the brown detailing on the pockets and collar help bring attention to the subtle brown check design seen within the cloth. The shoulders are fitted for a natural curved line whilst a matching belt sits in the middle within the vintage-style piece. The second coat is in a single-breasted form with three buttons down the front, two flapped pockets and one welt on the chest. The notch lapels are short yet wide as this dupplin check design is formed of browns, oranges and a navy blue. With a padded shoulderline, it's worn over a pair of camel cord trousers and a tan roll neck knit.

ERDEM

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Runway - 21st February 2022

Of course, overcoats are always a staple and a necessary item to keep warm against the colder weather, and so the ERDEM collection delivered a few examples of them for Autumn/Winter 22. Each featured the ticket pocket on the one side and cut in their double-breasted form, the coats falling to the knee and the curved peak lapels proving a great design choice for the style. Available in an ivory, warm orange or very dark blue with a subtle print, they all had a great line and shape to them.

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This particular two-piece skirt suit was very edgy whilst the features remained classic. The notch lapels were wide as extra stitching featured on the edge of them and the collar, highlighting the texture of the herringbone cloth. Four fabric covered buttons sat on the front of the double-breasted design with the shoulders very strong and padded for real impact. What made this look so cool were the many silver studs that sat at the bottom of the jacket and sleeves, gradually increasing in size with the same style noticeable on the skirt too. The split opening underneath the pocket flaps gave the impression of a jacket made backwards with a double vent on the front, conveying a classic suit with a modern shape.

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There were a strong variety of prints and patterns that could be seen in the collection, some kept to a minimal effect; but this one was very bold against the bronze background of the two-piece suit. Like the overcoats, a ticket pocket was included above the flapped pockets with the peak lapels wide and curving smoothly into the centre front. The shoulderline was strong and the trousers a slightly tapered cut with angled side pockets. The jacket included a two-button front and the hem rounded for a softer approach, mirroring the delicate floral print seen throughout the suit, conveying a very autumnal feel to it.

Helen Anthony

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Runway - 21st February 2022

It was another collection that was filled with tailoring on the penultimate day of London Fashion Week, capturing the vibe of the 80's and 90's with the shape and silhouette of the shoulders and sleeves particularly. The wide shoulders and the elongated double-breasted silhouette of the grey coat in particular is very dramatic; but the styling and accessorising makes it very cool and effortless. The collection certainly focused on the details and tailored shapes whilst fitting in well with the autumnal and winter colour palette.

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Combining colours and patterns on a tailored garment definitely makes it a statement, and this is very much a statement look of the collection. The one half of this overcoat is cut from a bright plaid check cloth that's made up of oranges, greens, yellows, white and black lines running through the pattern, whilst the other half is plain black. Overall it's a double-breasted design with eight gold metallic buttons on the front (4x4) that angle inwards at the bottom. The flapped pockets sit low on the hips and with wide peak lapels, it really strengthens the wide shoulders and the padded shoulders of the look.

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From the oversized shoulders to the crisp eveningwear, these two looks were fine examples of occasion suits in the collection. The first look is a three-piece crush midnight blue number with a matching bow tie and low-scooped waistcoat. The tailcoat is a one-button design with contrasting double jet and welt pockets on the front to match the inner panelling of the shawl collar. The waistcoat is also double-breasted with a six-button front and the trousers are very slim for a dapper style. The second look is very different with the look and cut, consisting of a white double-breasted dinner jacket and grey trousers. The trousers hint at a turn-up hem and a slightly looser shape at the hem, whilst the jacket is made with significant sharp peak lapels and neat flapped pockets on the front, whilst the black bow tie is fanned out in this classic example of formal attire.

Completedworks

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Presentation - 22nd February 2022

The vibe of this jewellery collection presented on the final day of London Fashion Week was certainly very chic and fits in with the minimalist styling that's proved very popular over the last few years; but the tailoring and garments used to showcase the jewels were very sophisticated and inspiring. Here, the model sports a charcoal grey blazer over a black roll neck and tucked into a pair of light grey trousers. The pleating from the trouser waistband creates lovely natural folds and creases in the item without distorting the shape or making them look jagged. The blazer has a subtle blue undertone to it, finished with wide notch lapels that sit high on the chest, a two-button front and thin double jet pockets. The shoulders are padded and have a great line as it falls crisply down to the sleeve cuffs, the one accessorised with a gold bracelet over the top for a flared finish.

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Minimalist styling and oversized items have become a popular combination in the tailoring wardrobe recently, just as this look embodies and is perfect for adding extra attention to jewellery. The model wears a light grey/stone two-piece suit that's wide on the shoulders, causing them to drop, and long in the body. Two ivory buttons sit low on the front with a fair stance between the bottom of the peak lapel line and the top of the button. The pleated trouser style also features in the outfit, worn with a dark navy V-neck underneath.

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The necklace was the centre of attention in this look; but the tailoring worn to enhance it was just as strong. The model wears a grey tailored topcoat over a buttoned jacket or waistcoat underneath with the lapels folded back neatly underneath. Thin double jet pockets and notch lapels were included as the shoulders were padded and the lines of the coat kept very crisp indeed. The trousers were tapered to the ankle with the centre crease very sharp to match the refined lines of the outfit, belt loops also included on the waistband for a perfectly tailored, minimal look.

London Fashion Week has definitely ended on a high and with fashion month moving to Milan for the penultimate week, the tailoring has been inspiring for the Autumn/Winter season. Which has been your favourite collection from the entire week? Check out more you may have missed from the last days of LFW, including cool patchwork designs on the Preen by Thornton Bregazzi runway and, the return of Ozwald Boateng's sharp bespoke creations to LFW after 12 years away.

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Want more fashion month content? Check back on our blog for more of the latest runways from London and New York ready for Milan Fashion Week!

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