The Opening of London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22 | A Hand Tailored Suit

The Opening of London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22

New York Fashion Week was over: now, it's London's turn to showcase their designer brands and collections ready for Autumn/Winter 22. Commencing on the 18th February, we are fast approaching the conclusion of the week before fashion month heads to Milan on the 22nd February. Until then, we at A Hand Tailored Suit have been delving into the hundreds of attires that have hit the runway in the UK capital and, amongst them, have been a few quite inspirational pieces of tailoring. Let's take a look at some from the opening of London Fashion Week A/W22.

Bora Aksu

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Runway - 18th February 2022

It was a collection that seemed to encapsulate the fashion of certain historical eras in one collection, with the satin pink and white sleeves on the one garment with a quite Georgian feel and the blue overcoat styled with a white curved collar underneath portraying a subtle 60's vibe to it. Nevertheless, the range was there from extravagant dresses to tailored attires more toned down and classic through traditional check patterns in a double-breasted piece.

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Now this look was certainly a fine and dandy piece as it combined three different check designs throughout the look. As the tights was a diamond check, the houndstooth coat had a matching beret as worn by the model, before finishing off with a gingham check coat over the top. It was a strong monochrome look as the houndstooth jacket was fastened with five black buttons down the centre and a tie belt to match. Flapped patch pockets were also included but well disguised within the busy pattern as the sleeves were slightly gathered into the cuffs. The gingham garment had notch lapels of different sizes, the narrower one buttoned down. The shoulders were a relaxed style and led down into the half-length sleeves with a wide hem. The white shirt collar sat over the houndstooth to break up the heavy use of pattern within the ensemble.

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Blue was a prominent colour within the collection, but for sure did the light pinks, autumnal browns and vivid reds come into play too. Houndstooth will possibly prove to be popular in this season as the first look sees the model wearing a pink and black design in a double-breasted coat. Moving onto the second look as the model wears another double-breasted coat cut in a brown check tweed which, in comparison to the third look (which is a matching skirt tweed set with a patterned knitted vest or cardigan) is slightly more subtle through the pairing of the nude-coloured dress. The final double-breasted coat however is not one to miss with its four-button front on this heavily printed design,finished with wide notch lapels and relaxed shoulders.

Paul Costelloe

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Runway - 18th February 2022

Wild yet full of flamboyance was the collection from Paul Costelloe on the first day of London Fashion Week, with examples of tailoring aplenty like this coat here. It has a very oversized shirt look to it through the grey and mustard check design that's shown, the yellow picked up on through the turned up trousers worn underneath and the warm yellow belt in the centre. The buttons are a grey horn style and the buttonholes formed in the double jet design. Side pockets feature below the waist as the model demonstrates them on the runway, with two pocket flaps evident on the chest. The sleeves are very loose and wide but are finished with the turn-up hem.

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A few outfits were kept very simple through the cloth and colour choices, much like these two coats above: it was how they were styled that ensured they stood out. The first coat falls to just above the knee in a double-breasted cut with hidden fastenings. The pockets begin mid-chest with large flaps indicating the top, whilst the rest falls into a very long and enlarged curved patch pocket. They definitely stand out; but so to do the tall padded gathered shoulders and the asymmetric curved collar also, just like the wide peak lapels and broad gathered shoulders make a sure statement on the other navy blue coat in a very 80's style design.

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A bit of speckled tweed in the Autumn/Winter wardrobe works wonders, especially when you have a variety of the same colour to choose from. Each one of the three jackets include details like flapped pockets, tall padded shoulders or a contrasting accessory to make it more glamorous, much like the second piece with its draped lapel and collar over the shoulder. The last jacket is more flamboyant then the others with the peplum hem and ruffled sleeve cuffs.

Kaushik Velendra

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Runway - 18th February 2022

The Kaushik Velendra collection showcased a great number of strong suits but some combined with an element of grace as the smooth looks took to the runway. This particular sand beige three-piece is very refined through the tailored lines of the cropped jacket, the possible waistcoat/jacket underneath and the slim trousers; but what transformed it from a modern suit cut was the shoulders. The pads glisten in a champagne gold as the create this sort of external padded to the jacket, following the curve of the sleeve seam. The peak lapels and collar sit over the top, creating quite a captivating ensemble.

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The design of loose-fitting and lightweight sleeves added onto a tailored jacket is a great contrast, combining the sharp lines of the lapels and hems with the free movement of the sleeves. In a way, they're able to highlight the front of the jacket and make this be a potential statement detail as the first look depicts; but on the second, the sleeves mirror the movements of the flared hem on the trousers in the second outfit. The last look has the hem fall to knee-length as the peaked lapel design includes a finishing camel panel on the sleeves to link it all together somewhat seamlessly.

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Styling the suit so the jacket is the statement garment or wearing a matching two-piece, there's always an occasion that calls for either way to be worn. The first look is a shimmery silver double-breasted jacket with the fastening hidden and the centre front angled down to the hem. The peak lapels are sharp yet curve elegantly into the fastening, whilst the second dark green/grey colour blend also has the same cut in the jacket. The shoulders are padded and the trousers are very slim with a subtle break above the hem.

Eudon Choi

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Runway - 19th February 2022

Now how about a pop of colour to brighten up the gloomy Autumn/Winter days? That's what Eudon Choi during London Fashion Week showcased with a great use of primary colours to lift the muted and toned down colours associated with the season. The use of black buttons across each three of these looks above really make the colour pop through the bold tones, whilst portraying an edgy touch to the classic trench coat or blue two-piece suit. The final red overcoat is certainly unique with the use of six buttons on the double-breasted front and six pocket flaps all on the front. The shoulders drape down for that relaxed fit and the collar is wide whilst also falling quite low, leaving shorter notch lapels.

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This look was a perfect example of the autumnal tones coming across in this collection as the model walks the runway wearing a double-breasted knee-length overcoat, accessorised with the same shade of yellow as seen above in the bag and shoes. The colour scheme on its own gives off a quite warming effect to the overcoat, a bonus for what would be a great coat choice. It's fastened with four buttons as the left column of buttons stop near the top for a contemporary look. The notch lapel is folded up, allowing the padded shoulderline to be quite significant and the pattern-matching of the stripes to be noticed also. The tie detail sitting across the body to underneath a pocket flap is very interesting.

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The styling of the hair and the brown shade of the suit and headband really indicate a retro theme to this outfit as the jacket displays notch lapels and soft, padded shoulders. The cut of the jacket is quite modern as a single button is positioned below the lapel fold line for the fastening, the ribbon tie can be seen parallel to it. From here, a curved edge leads down the jacket hem as it sits over the trousers that flare from the knee. A solitary flapped pockets sits below the waistline on the other side and the arm sleeve holding the bag highlights a subtle sharp line for that statement look. The monochrome theme across the collection was enough to make a statement on its own too, with matching blouse and trouser ensembles or that pop of bright colour elevating the muted colour scheme.

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There's been some more brilliant collections during the opening stages of London Fashion Week, these just being a select few! Which look was your favourite? Check out more refined tailored designs below, including a cool 60's style jacket from Connor Ives, an edgy pinstripe number from Mark Fast and prints and checks from the S.S. Daley collection.

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Want more fashion month content? Check back on our blog for more of the latest runways from London Fashion Week and from this busy February fashion month!

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