Paris Fashion Week is always the conclusion to what is a busy fashion month and we can always expect the runways to deliver very fashionable garments that will pave the way for Autumn/Winter 22. Commencing on the 28th February to its conclusion on 8th March 2022, it's a busy week in the French capital - and we at A Hand Tailored Suit have spotted some sharp runways and sharp tailoring involved during the opening days of Paris Fashion Week.
Saint Laurent
Runway - 1st March 2022
It was a runway that delivered simple looks that allowed focus to be brought to the shape, silhouette and cut of the tailoring involved such as these two looks above. The first look shows the model sporting a floor-length tuxedo dress that has broad shoulders and a double-breasted front. The contrasting peak lapels are wide enough to balance out the shoulders as the facing falls all the way down the centre front and is exposed as the model walks. With flapped pockets too and a contrasting jet on the top edge, it's the same details that feature on the two-piece suit the model wears in the second image. This time, the jacket is designed with a one-button fastening and wide notch lapels with a collar that has a sharp point, mirroring the dramatic impact of the shoulders. The trousers are flared from the knee and the centre crease defined enough in this sharp suit.
The detailing in overcoats were subtle yet strong as this piece shows. Cut in the same length as the black blazer dress above, it's made from a grey tweed cloth with speckles of white and black woven and embedded into the design. The sleeves are baggy and the cuffs pushed up through the vast layering of bracelets, almost acting as a decorative cuff themselves. The collar and notch lapels are very wide to complement the oversized shape of the sleeves, whilst finished off with shoulder epaulettes and two thick angled jet pockets sitting below the fabric belt.
The Saint Laurent collection definitely ensured the cloths were a vocal point within some of the looks, this short jacket being a prime example. Cut in the length and style of a pea coat, it was with a double-breasted front and four black buttons on display. The cloth itself is a herringbone piece which helps to emphasise the shape of the sleeves a little more, whilst maintaining its level of chicness. The collar pops up for even more impact and the notch lapels are folded back for sleek styling, whilst two extra black buttons feature on the hem for a unique finish.
BOTTER
Runway - 1st March 2022
The BOTTER runway during Paris Fashion Week combined classic colours with those more vivid, guaranteed to make that piece of tailoring pop - or just be the sole, stand-out colour of the suit itself. These two are strong examples of that, both featuring flapped pockets on the front, centre creases on the trousers and padded shoulders. The first is a light baby pink shade that shows no visible fastening on the jacket and paired with a complementing tie underneath. What's clever about this piece is the dark blue zip neck knit which appears to act as a contrasting shawl collar on the jacket. The three-piece yellow suit is more edgy in its design too, as cut-out details feature on the shoulders which broaden the shoulder line; yet doesn't entirely distract from the other tailoring details such as the notch lapels.
This particular look from the collection was very smart in its cut and use of bolder colours in the accessories. The suit itself looks to be a three-piece with the line that falls down behind the one notch lapel. Flapped and welt pockets also feature on the jacket with padded shoulders and straight-leg trousers; but what's interesting is the extra piece that folds over the one lapel, grey underneath and with a metal eyelet in the centre, very different and edgy. The look is completed with a classic white shirt and blue striped tie.
This look is another example of a vibrant colour being used within a well-tailored style. It's a two-piece made from a strong light blue hue, designed with a two-button front and notch lapels. The welt pocket sits behind whilst two flapped pockets - and a third ticket pocket - also features on the front. The shoulders are broad but round off nicely for a smooth finish and the jacket front curves down into a rounded hem. As the trousers are straight cut with a subtle centre crease, the defining detail is the symmetric navy blue/black lines that run throughout both pieces.
BALMAIN
Runway - 2nd March 2022
It was a collection that was very much BALMAIN through the refined lines in the tailoring and the luxury finish also. Rather chic blazers were combined in the collection with design details that made it almost quite futuristic, just as the third and last look shows with the parallel panels that loop over the shoulders down to the lapels. The first look is luxurious with the rounded shoulders and extra padded in the shoulder head, causing them to be more elevated from the side seams. The lapels are contrasting in a glossy finish and reach high to the shoulder line, whilst the white sleeveless blazer has an extra layer on the peak lapel and sharp lines on the hem.
It's very much a futuristic take on a classic evening blazer as the model wears one with white and black panelling throughout, creating this geometric pattern. The lapels are cut in the peak style but almost blend into the design with the extra matte black finish on the inner edge. The lapels fold down low on the chest, leaving a shorter notched hem if the jacket was to be fastened up. The symmetry of the design is sharp and crisp, making it a statement look on the runway.
The collection's colour scheme centred around the monochrome theme with hints of metallic gold thrown into the mix to enhance the futuristic theme; but some of the coats were kept simplified like this white piece, made with wide notch lapels that sat high on the chest, almost blending into the shoulder line. The padded shoulder heads were included once more as a single fastening was visible on the front, along with the two flapped pockets on this knee-length design. Other coats were made in just the one colour such as the black piece with contrasting lapel detailing or combined the geometric placement of the black and white for a signature finish.
VTMNTS
Runway - 4th March 2022
To brighten up the Autumn/Winter days, this suit would definitely fit the bill with its cloudy blue sky print that's seen throughout the jacket, trousers and roll neck top underneath. The jacket is single-breasted with the fastening hidden behind and the buttonholes left as a noticeable detail on the front. The shoulders are well-structured and padded, leading down into sharp cuffs that finishes level with the curved hem. The notch lapels are short as flapped and welt pockets are also included in this slightly asymmetric fitted jacket.
With how the model walks and the tailoring flares out, it certainly adds to the added drama incorporated into the look. Over the top is a calf-length deep yellow coat with flapped pockets and a welt one also included, sitting behind the peak lapel. The shoulders are high and broad whilst the look is toned down through the beige long-length blazer or coat underneath. A flapped pocket can also be seen included as both are worn over a pair of navy trousers, layering up over the shoe. With a contrasting grey satin lining inside the yellow coat, it's an eye-catching example of autumnal layering and how to break up a complementary colour pairing (yellow and blue).
Amongst a lot of popping attires in the VTMNTS collection was this particular piece, quite soft in appearance and colour that makes for a perfect autumnal blazer. It's double-breasted in shape with six brown horn buttons on the front and two flapped pockets that are sharp on the corners. The welt pocket sits straight too and just underneath the one peak lapel. A matching embroidered buttonhole can just be noticed on the one peak lapel as the lapels themselves sit a little low down on the neckline. The statement shoulderline of the collection features once more before they curve down in a smooth rounded style, contrasting the sharp straight hem of the piece.
There's been so much strong inspiration from the opening few days of Paris Fashion Week, and there's definitely more to come as the runways continue in the French capital. Check out more from the fashion week below, including beautiful classic style silhouettes from Dior, a bright electric blue suit from Koche and a rather cool short purple jacket from Courreges.
Want more fashion month content? Check back on our blog for more of the latest runways from Paris Fashion Week and the rest from February fashion month!
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