The Start of Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22 - A Hand Tailored Suit

The Start of Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22

The fashion spotlight was handed over from London to Milan ready for the next instalment of one of the busiest fashion months of the calendar year. Between 22nd - 28th February 2022, many famous designer names in the fashion industry would take to the runway, showcasing their collections ready for the next Autumn/Winter season - and there has been many brilliant pieces of inspiring tailoring amongst them. We've been analysing some of the shows, and here are just a few of the stand-out looks from Milan Fashion Week's opening days.

Capasa Milano

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Runway - 22nd February 2022

Monochromatic, bright and relaxed tailoring was a theme in the Capasa Milano collection for the opening day of Milan Fashion Week, and certainly a collection that shows how to not stop wearing vibrant colours in the Autumn/Winnter season. The models each were either a yellow, teal blue or burgundy blazer of a double-breasted cut, designed with thin double jet pockets and six black buttons on the front. The low notch lapels and elongate the body; but the styling shows how effective a blazer can look fastened or draped over the shoulders for that effortless look.

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Don't be afraid to add a pop of colour to your bespoke attire to really make a statement and make the outfit pop even more. Both looks involve the shirt collar sticking out from underneath the blazer and styled to lay over the top in quite a groovy manner. The first attire has a dark green shirt collar lying over the top of this navy blue two-piece suit, the opening of the shirt still visible on the outer edges of the V-neck. The second look has the signature double-breasted blazer of the collection made in white with black buttons on the front; but this time, styled with the wine red shirt collar placed over the top, giving it quite a 70's vibe.

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This navy blue coat is rather different and one not to be missed from the collection. It's a length expected and seen on a pea coat for example; but this piece is designed with raglan sleeves and a tall collar that will stand up. The buttons are also a cool detail in this coat as the six buttons on the one side follow the curve up from the hem to the collar, much like the buttons do on the other side and follow the curve to give more shape to this jacket.

Fendi

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Runway - 23rd February 2022

It's a collection that had some looks on the runway made for chic office attire during the Fendi runway. These three looks were just a few examples of such, varying from glossy grey belted jackets to blue asymmetric blazer suits and the refined blouse tucked into a smart knee-length skirt. The colour palette of the collection was quite muted, nothing too out there for the Autumn/Winter season; but rather one that embodies it through sharp tailored lines and details instead.

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This two-piece is cut the same way as the navy blue one above, again such a muted and soft colour with a brown undertone to the peachy colour. The blazer has a high notched hem and just a single exposed fastening on the collar of one button, folding down the peak lapel in position. A welt pocket sitting on a slight angle features on the one side and the shoulders are softly padded for that well-tailored look. The trousers sit high on the waist for the desired elongated look as the hem finishes over the shoe, showing a trouser break above. A centre crease helps to sharpen this gentle outfit and show how sharp tailored lines instantly transform the cloth the suit is cut from.

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Small check patterns were common in this collection within some of the looks, this one being an example - and what a great piece it is too. Up close, the two different colours involved are really noticed here: the body of the jacket cut in a grey check cloth whilst the sleeves are a darker green. The sleeves match the collar and together, work perfectly in outlining the jacket body which is designed with a two-button front in the centre. The same peak lapel element is folded back and fastened on the collar with a welt and two flapped pockets incorporated also. It's simple yet effective through the choice of two muted colour shades for a chic finish.

Alberta Ferretti

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Runway - 23rd February 2022

What colour combination describes "winter" more than a blue/purple combination? That's just one of the partnerships that really stood out in the Alberta Ferretti collection at Milan Fashion Week through some fabulous overcoats and woollen pieces, just as seen in these two looks above. The first look has the blue and purple combination broken up with burgundy thrown into the mix through the wide-brimmed hat and trousers. Focusing on the coat first, it has a relaxed fit across the shoulders with a wide collar and peak lapels. These features really aid to the drama this coat brings as it's left unfastened to expose the purple lining. The matching fabric belt is left loose down the side whilst the blue knit picks up on the colour's involvement within the velvet pattern on the sleeve. The second coat has the same dramatic effect through the long-length style; but it's also enhanced thanks to the contrasting soft texture of the wide collar.

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The patterns and textures come together for quite an adventurous style in this monochrome ensemble as the model wears a grey textured knit with a ruffled collar. The contrasting collar and peak lapels on the overcoat help to outline the collar well, whilst also picking out the black detailing seen in the artistic print. The shoulders of the coat are padded yet subtle and the sleeves finished with belts as the hem falls to mid-calf. The unfastening strengthens the drama of the overcoat in this look (and the collection overall) once more, whilst the flapped pockets conveys its practical nature.

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From a dramatic blue overcoat to its matching two-piece suit, this look was very definitive through its shade and the textures once more. The jacket is single-breasted with notch lapels and the classic welt pocket sitting just behind. Soft padded shoulders give it good structure whilst the trousers are tapered to the knee and flare out for extra shape, the hem draping along the floor. With front pockets on the trousers for the model to pose with, it really highlights the soft fur/feather detailing on the jacket cuffs, varying up the textures involved in the attire look; but also adding a bit of flamboyancy to a classic tailored two-piece suit.

Roberto Cavalli

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Runway - 23rd February 2022

Looking cool whilst wearing soft, textured tailored garments was certainly an element associated with the Roberto Cavalli collection during day 2 of Milan Fashion Week. This particular green, black and white check design was common, as seen in this double-breasted overcoat and the skirt and blazer combination in the second look. The overcoat was fitted on the shoulders but designed with a lovely curve so not to distort the fibres of the cloth and therefore, the texture. Flapped pockets were included just below waist level, finished off with wide peak lapels and six black buttons on the front.

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We've seen contrasting fabrics combined together into a tailored look from the previous fashion weeks - and Milan showcased their own through the Roberto Cavalli collection. The beige pink, black, grey and green plaid check was combined with the same colours in a Glen check on the other side to create this very chic belted coat. The coat finished below the knee and was cinched in at the waist with a chunky black belt whilst also fastened with its matching black buttons. The collar and notch lapels are wide to mirror the coat style along with thin sleeve belts and vertical welt pockets. This same pattern combination is also seen in a skirt suit on the runway, designed with peak lapels, flapped pockets and a one-button front.

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The clashing of prints was strong in this look as the model sports a long blazer dress featuring a cheetah and leopard print combination. The flapped pockets near the bottom are pattern matched and really blend in well as the broad padded shoulders really enhance the bold look. What makes this tailored piece even bolder is the amazing contrasting peak lapels, designed in a luxurious emerald green that really shines under the runway lights. With black buttons arranged in a six-button style on this double-breasted garment, it's certainly eye-catching.

Milan Fashion Week really kicked off with some fabulous monochrome and simple tailoring with some sharp detailing to enhance the crisp lines of the garments. Which look was your favourite? Don't forget to view these other fine examples of tailoring from the opening days, including a vibrant magenta two-piece suit from Marco Rambaldi, edgy shoulders from N°21 and minimal blazers from Giada.

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Want more fashion month content? Check back on our blog for more of the latest runways from Milan Fashion Week and from this busy February fashion month!

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