New York Fashion Week has come to a close and it's been a very busy week for an iconic moment in the fashion calendar. Between 11th - 16th February 2022, many designers took their collections to the runway to showcase their own takes on key trends for the AW seasons. Of course there were a substantial amount of outfits worn that of course, also included some sharp elements of tailoring. Here's just a few of the collections we couldn't help but notice during the first couple of days at New York Fashion Week.
Christian Cowan
Runway - 11th February 2022
The collection was varied from stunning floor-length evening gowns to glittery ensembles for the designer's AW22 show, contrasted through strong shoulders and textures to showcase a range that was very much eye-catching under the spotlight. Vibrant outfits were enhanced even more through silver or gold embellishment around the peak lapels on a jacket or down the sides to highlight the silhouette of a tailored suit, or simply the use of a vibrant print combined with those statement shoulders would for sure, make for a stand-out ensemble.
Refined tailoring was made even more exciting in this particular look as the model wore a black tuxedo blazer dress with many ostrich feathers placed behind for extravagance. The wide peak lapels were a smooth finish to match the four buttons situated on the front of this double-breasted piece and the white feathers adding movement to the structured garment.
The Autumn/Winter tailored wardrobe isn't complete without a bit of tweed, and this collection included tweed in the form of a cropped two-piece look. It was a grey check weave with hints of blue and speckles of metallic gold shining in the light, such a detail that was excellently picked out through the design choice of gold buttons. Again the shoulders were padded to give extra height with the frayed hem of the skirt definitely contrasting the smooth lines of the jacket. It was a lively take on the classic tweed cloth.
This suit deserves its own spotlight with how much impact it has on the runway. Gold studs could be seen in my areas of the look, including around the peak lapels, cuffs and even where the darts would be on the front of the jacket to create more of a fitted shape. The lapels are quite short but even around the contrasting satin collar were smaller gold studs to really define the tailored cut. There is a small stance between the two buttons on the front of the jacket, allowing the length of the jacket to be noticed even more as it finished just above mid-thigh. The trousers are fitted but with a subtle flare at the hem, the gold studs down the sides ensuring that flare is noticed.
Proenza Schouler
Runway - 11th February 2022
The Proenza Schouler collection during New York Fashion Week had an overall calming and graceful vibe about its collection as some of its pieces were kept quite minimalist but with an element of pattern thrown in the mix. These two looks above were perfect examples of the simple yet chic looks, the first depicting a long brown topcoat with a three-button front and accessorised with a black knit underneath. The coat's shoulders drop slightly below the natural shoulder point as large flapped pockets and notch lapels make for classic tailoring. The second outfit is definitely chic as a white suit always portrays as such. Wide peak lapels sat on against the chest whilst the wrapped blazer is fastened with one black button and the model walking with her hands tucked into the trousers pockets to highlight the shape of the jacket.
Overcoats can always be elegant and chic just like the suit too as this navy piece definitely shows. The same one-button fastening is featured on this overcoat, cut in a double-breasted way and wrapped to complete cover the front. The peak lapels are a great width to balance out the shoulders but not overpower it, whilst the flapped pockets feature below the waist and the sleeves finishing with what looks like a split cuff, giving extra shape. The centre edge of the jacket falls gently below the fastening to mirror the long draped hem of the trousers.
The collection conveyed how to provide more depth to a minimalist collection through great fabric manipulation, just as the shoulders on these two looks display. Both are printed with a contrasting feather detail and include a low thin neckline on the bodice, opening to a crew neck. The shoulders sit over the sleeves which are finished with a single button on the cuff. The bodice is fitted to the waist and falls smoothly down the sides into the flares at the bottom, creating an elongated silhouette.
Christian Siriano
The Empire State Building and Christian Siriano present NYFW - 12th February 2022
Just like the Empire State Building is indeed a statement landmark in New York, so too were the designs of Christian Siriano during fashion week. Each individual look was a statement in itself, including this tailored two-piece with flares at the trouser hem and a bold blue and cream print against the black cloth. The print looks similar to zebra stripes or a tropical plant leaf appearing in no particular arrangement across the jacket and trousers. The jacket is fastened with one button and with how it stands out in the spotlight, it will definitely make for a statement evening attire.
The colour palette of the collection definitely encapsulated the night sky, some complete with glittering embellishment and others kept simple with a focus on texture and shape like the outfit above. The model sports a cornflower blue padded quilted jacket, paired with black velvet trousers that capture the light effortlessly. The peplum jacket has relaxed shoulders leading into oversized sleeves which fall into a more fitted cuff. The peak lapels are very wide and the collar is quite thin as the lapels curve down to the single button for the fastening.
What can be more statement than statement sleeves in an outfit - and this dark blue ensemble was certainly fitting that criteria. It was a two-piece jacket and trousers which shone on the runway thanks to the glossy finish of the material. The trousers are a straight-leg cut with the hem high enough to show the T-straps of the heel worn by the model. The jacket includes a three-button fastening down the front and notch lapels very wide to balance the flamboyant ruffled detailing down the sleeves. Double jet pockets sit on an angle on the jacket; but there are minute details when compared to the voluminous sleeves.
Brandon Maxwell
Runway - 12th February 2022
The overall collection was very relaxed and definitely a smart/casual approach was taken to elements of tailoring involved. This was one of the runway looks, the model sporting a pair of black pleated and wide legged trousers with a turned up hem, paired with a black roll neck and a chic brown topcoat. The coat is very simplistic with its features but the lines are sharp with the collar popped and the shoulders padded for a bit of height.
This is a coat that will definitely keep you wrapped up warm and cosy in the colder seasons, as this ivory piece from the Brandon Maxwell collection features a double layered notch lapel and collar design. The textured coat is cinched in around the waist with a thin belt for an effortless appearance, whilst on the shoulders are epaulettes for a power coat effect. The model's wearing the coat with a cable knit accessory (either a jumper or scarf) draped round the arms to almost mirror the texture of the overcoat for a cohesive look.
A cream coat or jacket in the winter is so apt and a lovely piece, and the collection showcased the versatility of such an item across a couple of looks. The first jacket hear is styled with a pair of blue distressed jeans, designed with a belt buckle fastening sitting slightly off-centre to gather the fabric and create a bit of flare to the bottom. The collar is popped and stood upright as was a common detail in the collection, outlining a sharp V-neck and angled notch. The second piece is styled in a more elegant ensemble with this silky dress underneath; but again, the soft padded shoulders and upright collar are a perfect layer for the dress, particularly with that sharp centre front line leading into a crisp straight hem.
Kim Shui
Runway - 12th February 2022
It was an eclectic collection that embodied a popular Autumn/Winter material with a Spring/Summer colour palette, breaking up the tweed attires with other bold designs including the two-piece skirt suit snakeprint set and the green/brown long-sleeved shirt with fabric drapes. The multi-coloured crosshatch tweed design is toned down to meet the autumnal colour palette through the green fur trim round the neckline and cuffs, whilst the tweed corset bodice has the elements of baby blue enhanced through the soft off-shoulder feature on the top.
This particular look in the collection has a very sophisticated feel to what is a monochromatic piece that features a tweed single-breasted coat and its matching hat. The coat itself is outlined with a lilac fur trim around the neckline of the garment and having matching cuff details on the end of the sleeves. Flapped pockets pattern match the check tweed design whilst two buttons fastened the jacket in the centre. There is a light blue undertone to this piece and is a perfect colour match to the winter colour palette.
The use of different colour tweeds throughout the collection was great to see, and these two looks feature the same two tweed designs. Whilst the brown and pink check tweed is used on the one sleeve and side of the overcoat in the first look, it's made into a type of underbust corset in the second look, fastened with hook and eyes. The light pink tweed with hints of magenta, blue and gold are made into the matching trousers and cropped jacket, whilst featuring on the bodice and other side of the overcoat in the first outfit. It's a great way of demonstrating how to style tweed in a modern way whilst also experimenting with a mix-and-match style.
New York Fashion Week most certainly kicked off in some style and the following days were even better with more inspiring elements of tailoring for Autumn/Winter 22. Check out some other fabulous pieces including a shimmery gold suit from Bronx and Banco, classic overcoat styles from Jason Wu and more fine examples of checks and tweed from the Son Jung Wan collection.
Check back on our blog for more of the latest runways and looks from New York Fashion Week and this busy February fashion month!
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