Milan Menswear Fashion Week S/S23: The Highlights - A Hand Tailored Suit

Milan Menswear Fashion Week S/S23: The Highlights

The Spring/Summer 2023 menswear season continued from London into Milan, with more runways and collections taking to the spotlight to showcase their interpretations on what could be popular next year. Milan Menswear Fashion Week lasted between 17th - 21st June 2022, and there were some strong elements of tailoring spread across a few iconic names in the fashion industry. Below are some of the highlights from Milan Fashion Week, starting with:

Family First

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RTW Runway

The tailoring was light in colour and relaxed in style, making it a perfect range for the warmer weather always expected in the Spring/Summer season. Matching suiting ensembles were spotted on the Family First runway; but the collection also focused on the mix-and-match of classic tailoring items, just as the model sporting the baby pink blazer with black loose trousers shows. The grey two-piece really focused on the relaxed nature to the tailoring, showcasing the dropped shoulders and wide notch lapels which was made more of a statement thanks to the slim trousers worn. Matching denim attires were also a theme to this collection, just as the blue patterned outfit depicts with flapped button-down pockets on the chest for that cool look. From casual denim to casual sportwear, the collection almost transitioned through the menswear wardrobe, making it versatile indeed.

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Each collection always has that one particular look that captures the eye the most, and this was the one that stood out here. The jacket, trousers and shirt were all cut from the same graphic print of cartoon art. The colours looked to have a subtle washy tone to it which, when paired with the contrasting black peak lapels, strengthened the art more without being too powerful or overwhelming. Two flapped pockets and a welt pocket were pattern-matched and disguised well on the jacket front, whilst the shoulders were padded and created a great line across the top. The shirt collar was left open, with one side styled to sit over the lapel for that extra edginess and the trousers were cut in a loose silhouette to ensure the graphic print has its full impact.

MSGM

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Runway

Again, the structured lines of tailoring were made quite summery and more casual through the use of vivid colour and prints throughout a few of the looks during the MSGM runway. Just as the first look shows, tropical prints were used as a strong, contrasting detail to really lift the suit as a Spring/Summer piece. Tailored jackets were styled with shorts and open collar shirts to continue this adaptation that's seen throughout, whilst the full black two-piece suit with peak lapels was designed with a artistic wash only in a couple of places on the jacket. The artistic wash and tie-dye elements were spotted throughout a few numbers, balancing the bold tropical prints with more softer designs to create elegant looks.

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When wearing a one-colour ensemble, texture and small uses of other colours transform an outfit instantly, and this particular number was a real stand-out from this collection. This woollen texture with the cloth's fibres exposed really softens the structure that has gone into the jacket's construction, the powerful impact peak lapels deliver toned down through said texture. The shoulders were padded and the classic features of a welt pocket could be spotted on the jacket front. The shorts are knee-length with what looks to be a flapped pocket on the one side for that extra practical touch, whilst front pockets are already included. The shirt matches this texture spotted throughout, cut with a classic shirt collar that acts as the canvas for these bright pink and green striped ties, of which were used to the same dramatic effect through accessories and striped varsity-style tops.

Prada

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Runway

The gingham check weave is - and forever will be - a classic design that is significant with Spring/Summer fashion. Its many colour combinations allows the pattern to be styled in an endless amount of looks, and Prada's Milan runway really showed that. The bright and vibrant nature of the gingham colours were toned down through the layering of black coats over the top, or a black short/top pairing worn underneath; but it still didn't distract from the statement it was delivering. Even if the gingham check wasn't the only check pattern that was included in a look - as the fourth look conveys - the orange could still partner well with the rouge pink and black plaid. The shapes of the single-breasted coats with the short notch lapels and raglan sleeves were simple and therefore, echoed the strong yet simple effect of the classic gingham.

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Of course, breaking up the gingham were some smart tailored looks, all cut in a plain black cloth; yet each one delivering in strength of sophistication. Single-breasted or double-breasted with the buttons on show or hidden behind, the combination of details varied. Notch lapels or peak lapels that were paired with flapped pockets shows the versatility of tailoring, especially when worn with a smart formal shirt and tie combination, or a black roll neck with an accessory as the last looks convey.

Etro

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Runway

The vibe of the Etro collection was again, quite chilled and relaxed for the Spring/Summer 2023 season. The traditional conservative tailoring colours were brightened through the use of delicate summery prints and looser lines in the construction of the suits, just as the mid-grey suit styled with its blue printed shirt conveys. Lighter fabrics and textures commonly seen in the warmer seasons were incorporated into the structured tailored fits, just as the second and last looks above display perfectly. When that summery colour palette wasn't just used as a detail in a suit, it became the full thing as the orange printed two-piece suit displays perfectly. It was even accessorised with an accompanying fabric scarf draping beautifully down the centre.

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Shining bright as the summer sun was this double-breasted suit on the Etro runway, designed with a subtle washed tropical print that was seen throughout the Spring/Summer collection. Six brown horn buttons were included on the front with one fastened on the centre row. The traditional welt pocket sat on the chest and the casual nature of the suit was enhanced through the large curved patch pockets near the bottom. The peak lapels were a standard width and the shoulders were fitted with a lovely curved line across the shoulders. The sleeves were finished with four-button brown horn "kissing" cuffs, as the model posed with hands in the trousers pockets of these loose leg pieces. The hems of the trousers were turned up for that final casual finishing touch.

Zegna

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RTW Runway

The collection from Zegna during the Spring/Summer 2023 Milan Fashion Week was certainly very minimal and calming in its attires, focusing around an earthy and neutral colour palette. A few brighter and summery elements of colour were thrown into the mix to brighten up the looks and give it that extra talking point; but ensuring it doesn't deter from the soft lines and silhouettes that were involved in the tailoring. The first look above depicts that perfectly, with this softer toned shade of yellow creating an elongated and relaxed two-piece suit that's styled with a lemon yellow crew neck top underneath that has a little bit of shine. Focusing on the large patch pockets in the second look, lilac/blue piping borders them to give them an outline against the sand colour, whilst these colours are used in opposite effect in the fourth look with this colourful printed V-neck sleeveless knit, worn over a sand-coloured shirt.

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The casual wardrobe pieces were quite effortless in this collection, from the loosely knitted sleeveless jumper vests to the oversized boxy shirts and shirt jackets that were keeping with the neutral colour palette for the season. The third look was comprised of a orange and brown printed boxy shirt and a pair of brown/orange trousers to pick out that exact shade in the shirt. The sleeves had a wide hem for that lightweight feel, designed with a wide shirt collar worn unfastened and tall stances between the centre buttons. The two shirt jackets featured above - one white and one a blush pink - were both the same in shape with the low raglan sleeves and straight collar. Both differed slightly in details however, with the white piece including more popper buttons down the front and a jet pocket almost on the centre of the chest. The blush pink included less poppers and two patch pockets at the bottom with a jet outlining the top, simply showing the variety of casual tailoring that can make just as strong of an impact as a classic, tailored suit.

Milan Menswear Fashion Week S/S23 continued to deliver fine examples of sartorial dressing and tailoring. Here are a few more below, which runway caught your eye the most?

Marcelo Burlon - Runway

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Versace - Runway

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Dhruv Kapoor - Runway

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IED - Runway

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If you missed the latest runways from London Fashion Week, check out our blog post here.

Are you feeling inspired for your next show-stopper suit? Get in touch with our tailoring team today!

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