New York Fashion Week kicked off with some great pieces and fine examples of tailoring on the 11th February 2022 (if you missed our previous blog post covering some of the runways, click here); but the halfway stage of the week delivered even more cool, inspiring pieces.
Dur Doux
Runway - 13th February 2022
The collection was so vibrant and bold that it would definitely make for stand-out styles in the autumnal seasons. Overcoats, oversized jackets and matching trousers were just a few elements that were styled within monochromatic outfits. Some pieces were detailed with texture like the first purple blazer dress and some plain but with extra pops of colour for an extra sleek finish, much like the single-breasted coat in the last look, styled with contrasting blue pockets and belt detailing.
The oversized and relaxed style when it comes to tailoring will be (if it isn't already) a classic trend, and this was conveyed through some looks of the collection including this one. Styled with a mustard yellow overcoat, the model wore a loose fitting slate blue knit over a pair of grey straight-leg trousers. The trousers had a matching fabric belt that could be seen due to the jumper tucked into the waistband. On the coat, wide notch lapels and collar were definitive, along with the chunky sleeve belts and dramatic effect of the hem floating behind with it left open.
With a mustard yellow roll neck knit worn underneath and matching gloves, this outfit showcased how to accessorise. The yellow picks out the toned down effect included in the plaid check jacket and trousers, surrounded by mostly red and green within the cloth. The angled welt pockets on the side aren't pattern matched to make them more of a feature, as is the same with the sleeve belts. The buttons are slightly off-centre, almost hinting towards a double-breasted cut whilst the collar is popped for that statement finish.
Evening glamour is how to describe this blazer as the entire garment is covered in warm gold sequins that shimmers in the natural light of the runway setting. Its features includes peak lapels that really blend into the piece and flapped pockets that sit just below the waist. With a contrasting fabric button for the sole fastening on the centre, the various gold and yellow hues that are created through the textures of the sequins are certainly eye-catching.
Sergio Hudson
Runway - 13th February 2022
It was pastel shades galore mixed with rich summery colours in this collection by Sergio Hudson as many bright coats and suits took to the runway for the Autumn/Winter 22 collection. Matching colour ensembles were commonplace, just like the pastel green double-breasted jacket styled with the matching skirt in the first look, or the all pastel pink outfit in the last picture featuring a safari jacket and trousers. The finishes of the garments were just as effective also with some quite glossy but others left in a matte finish for a sophisticated piece.
This suiting number was very chic as the model wears a peach two-piece suit with a matching chunky belt and cut-out top underneath. The trouser silhouette is straight and designed with a high waist and subtle centre crease that shows through the natural drape as the model walks. The jacket details include notch lapels and curved patch pockets at the bottom of the garment, the padded shoulders giving extra height as it's draped over the shoulders for an effortless ensemble.
Just like the suit above, this sky blue number also included curved patch pockets at the bottom of the jacket and notch lapels, the hints of the buttoned cuffs just showing in this outfit. Underneath the model wore a matching blue crew neck dress with the hem finishing mid-thigh; but what made this look was the accessorising of the belt around the waist, making the blazer more fitted and ensuring the padded shoulders were delivering the power suit. The belt styling still delivers the same impact as the look which Former First Lady Michelle Obama wore for President Joe Biden's 2021 inauguration.
Not one, not two, but three safari jackets and skirts with their matching wide-brimmed hats stepped onto the runway to deliver a powerful fashion moment. The looks were pastel purple, green and orange and all designed with the coordinating belts across the waist and four buttoned flapped pockets. The collars are wider than the notch lapels as keeping with the traditional safari jacket style.
Carolina Herrera
Runway - 14th February 2022
The collection of Carolina Herrera at New York Fashion Week involved the use of vibrant shades of colour to turn something simple into a piece of art, this look being a perfect example. The model took to the runway wearing a tailored two-piece black suit with a sharp centre crease on the trousers. The jacket was cut in the double-breasted form and with slightly raised shoulders, it create a great shoulder line to the form. The wide peak lapels were also a perfect choice for the style of jacket; but also were strengthened through the layering of red, purple and pink fabric that draped across the model and overlapped. It draped all the way to the floor so when the model walked, it floated behind her and was truly captivating.
As in other collections from New York Fashion Week, statement sleeves have been on the runway once more. Both the black jacket and overcoat are double-breasted with the same wide notch lapels and same big sleeves. The jacket sleeves are in a contrasting baby blue with a drawstring on the cuffs to really strengthen the volume and shape, whilst the overcoat sleeves are black and the natural sheen of the material brought out by the shine of the black buttons.
It's another prime example of a check tweed ensemble for Autumn/Winter 22, made up of a tailored jacket and shorts underneath. On the front of the jacket are three matching bows down the centre which gives the cloth and its pattern more dimension whilst maintaining the feminine elegance of the collection. The shoulders are padded and the bottom of the jacket flares out for a seamless A-line silhouette. Many other looks delivered the same seamless finish, including a look that would be very chic for the office and extremely versatile involving a pair of high-waisted tapered trousers and raglan sleeve white blouse.
Tory Burch
Runway - 14th February 2022
The Tory Burch collection was complete with a few looks that would also make for very chic workwear such as the look above. The model above wears a grey jacket with relaxed shoulders and a contrasting black collar against the notch lapels. Across the waist is an asymmetric black belt to mirror the collar, whilst the dark mustard trousers are slightly tapered at the hem with a noticeable centre crease. The bobbled texture on the jacket and trousers provide more depth to the runway look.
If the cool overcoat design wasn't enough to be noticed, then the small striped panel matching the coat's colour certainly would be. Designed with flaps secured flat against the garment with two large black buttons either side, the coat also featured relaxed shoulders and the fastenings hidden underneath the top placket. The classic collar was wide to mirror the relaxed style of the piece and also designed in a contrasting white design with the pink collar underneath sticking through.
Accessories always play a vital part in monochromatic looks, just as this chic red bag has on the black overcoat. The coat itself has the same belt fastening as seen throughout the collection whilst three silver embroidered crosses feature on the front and the relaxed shoulders feature once more. The contrasting black collar makes a strong statement as it links nicely to the black buttoned jacket worn underneath defined by the white shirt collar.
DUNCAN
Runway - 14th February 2022
Sometimes less is more when it comes to tailoring and these looks portray just that, with the key feature being the use of just one lapel on the jacket. The first look is a rust red shade in a two-piece suit with straight flapped pockets and a hidden fastening for the double-breasted front. The one peak lapel is contrasting in black whilst on the black two-piece suit, it's the same choice of lapel. The jacket is left open to reveal the hooded zip jacket underneath and the trousers are slim with a subtle centre crease.
This look from the DUNCAN collection is just one example of how bold colours can be utilised well with bold patterns. The model takes to the runway wearing a pair of bright red trousers with a zip fastening and side pockets, made sharper through the centre crease seen on the front. The blue blouse with white stripes is made with long sleeves that gather into a tall cuff, the shoulders gathered and made puffy for a powerful effect. The tall collar blends into the shirt and is pattern-matched seamlessly for a refined look.
Tartan is always a popular check design worn through the autumn and winter seasons, and so the DUNCAN collection included just a few outfits involving the pattern. The tartan design is associated with the Duncan clan, and so it was incorporated into a gathered puffball skirt with a black sleeveless bodice, a pleated skirt and bodice with a black satin neck draping down behind the model (also embellished with silver studs) and also a pair of straight-leg trousers tucked into the model's boots. Tartan is a very versatile cloth design and can look as strong in numerous ways.
New York Fashion Week continued as it started: with serious impact. It's definitely setting the standard to end on a high with more inspiring elements of tailoring no doubt to be shown. Check out more cool tailored pieces from the halfway point of the week, including beautiful red floral designs from Frederick Anderson and a few classy overcoats and jackets from Markarian.
Check back on our blog for more of the latest runways and looks from New York Fashion Week and this busy February fashion month!
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