London Fashion Week kicked off in most definite style as we have already reviewed just a few of the collections that hit the runway in the opening days (if you missed our previous LFW blog post, click here!) Now past the halfway point of the week and of course, more and more wonderful looks have been delivered by the designers and of course, more and more tailoring was involved. Let's delve into more fashion content from London Fashion Week.
Daniel w. Fletcher
Runway - 19th February 2022
From muted colour blends to vibrant hues, the Daniel w. Fletcher was quite varied from very casual outfits to smart attire, some definitely blending the two factors together. The last outfit above is a perfect example of that with the model sporting a stone two-piece suit styled with a red and light blue butcher stripe shirt. The tie contrasts with a darker shade of blue so it doesn't go amiss in the outfit, a similar finishing effect in the third look. The first and second outfits are very casual but stylish with the colour co-ordination, elements that within a tailored ensemble are always picked up on.
It's an elongated glossy lemon jacket which has a contrasting white zip and to match, long white soft panels that drape down to knee-length. There is a gap left between them which ensure the yellow jacket and difference in material are noticed in this attire that has a soft appearance overall. The collar is a classic choice and the trousers are white also with a break in the hem, sitting below the shoe openings. The shoulders are padded and the cuffs sitting just above the knuckles for a more tailored, casual appearance.
The tailored overcoats and suits were very cool in the collection and the balance between the relaxed shapes of the coats to the tailored, fitted shapes of the suits was clever. Both the brown and black cashmere wool blend overcoats featured flapped pockets, but differed in the use of lapels and whether it was single or double-breasted in style. The difference in lapels was apparent on the slate blue striped two-piece and off-white two-piece suit too; but what was sharp about the last suit was its angled centre front leading down from the top button fastening. Large patch pockets were combined with peak lapels whilst the tall notched hem exposes the layering of shirts sitting over the trousers. Such a clever way of handling the smart/casual balance.
Labrum London
Runway - 19th February 2022
Their Spring/Summer 22 collection was also eye-catching during September 2021's London Fashion Week - and this Autumn/Winter collection is just as strong too. These three blazers above all portray vivid shades of orange expected to see in the autumnal transition, and all three are a double-breasted cut with padded shoulders. The first is made with peak lapels and a large floral design on the one side, the darker shade or orange being picked up through the cuff detailing on the one sleeve. The orange hues are reversed in the second look with the exact same pattern on the jacket, this time paired with dark blue cuffs underneath for that complementary colour match. The final jacket involves two different patterns in the jacket cloth which not only gives it texture, but also more depth. Black buttons sit on the front along with flapped pockets and styled with a black roll neck to really make the jacket the statement piece.
Much like the orange and blue colour match above, a double-breasted suit and stripes also go very well together. The background colour is grey whilst the stripes are a purple/burgundy shade which lends itself nicely to the grey. It looks like the thicker stripes are made up of thinner individual ones as an illusion but again, more depth to the attire. Peak lapels are the perfect shape for such a suit silhouette and all the pockets (two flapped and one welt) are pattern-matched. The grey horn buttons sit in a six-button (3x3) style and the trousers move effortlessly on the runway, something that's strengthened through the subtle shine of the cloth.
Whilst the colour palette of this collection included a few orange outfits and details to make the outfits pop, there were also great hints of blues and the strong use of monochrome too as seen in the double-breasted suit. The first outfit here is formed of an oversized grey maxi-length coat with two buttons fastening the centre front back. The grey striped trousers are exposed and, as paired with the matching jacket underneath the large curved coat lapel and collar, a hint of navy blue pops through with the shirt. The blue is much more prominent on the second outfit as it's cleverly designed to give a layered illusion with the top jacket and its many circular cut-out sections. The trouser pockets are edged in charcoal grey whilst monochrome stripes help to define the muted blue and grey.
EFTYCHIA
Runway - 19th February 2022
There's something so chic about a matching suit that's kept to the minimum and the focus is purely on the details that go into making such a garment. This collection from EFTYCHIA embodied just that, and this look above is just one example from the runway. The model sports a double-breasted number with a simple two-button front, cut with peak lapels that are finished with such a sharp point. The collar is contrasting and has a glossy finish to it, matching the symmetrical panel detailing leading down the side and into the front pockets. With the clever trickery of light, it makes it look like the bottom part of the jacket (below the pockets) is more 3D away from the pockets. A welt pocket sits on the chest and the trousers are loose but lead down into a slightly tapered hem that falls on the shoes.
As the impact of a minimal suit should never be underestimated, neither should the classic blouse and tailored trouser partnership. The cream blouse is cut with a classic collar and left unfastened to mid-chest. The buttons are a dark brown which blends nicely with the softness of the blouse, whilst either side are two large patch pockets for a statement detail. It's tucked into a pair of high-waisted black trousers with contrasting black panelling on the thigh, keeping in theme of the detail within the collection. The trousers sit on the shoe and have a subtle centre crease to sharpen the straight-leg cut lines and edges.
Continuing with the contrasting panel detail, it's included down the centre front of this very dark navy two-piece suit with matching blue shirt. The trousers are wide legged, meaning the thick panel down the front wouldn't look too cramped and is a perfect width. The jacket is slightly long in the body and features a two-button front with wide notch lapels and a welt pocket sitting just behind. The shoulders are padded and upon closer look, a subtle groove is seen leading up from the side edges of the jacket.
Yuhan Wang
Runway - 20th February 2022
Bright green plus tweed equals a stand-out outfit for Autumn/Winter and the collection from Yuhan Wang included a couple examples of just that. The first look here is a matching tweed ensemble with the jacket cinched in to create more sharp. The check pattern of the cloth is quite large and bold; but the addition of fringing to the hem, pockets and around the collar ensure it is definitely noticed. The frayed texture is still soft enough to mirror this quite elegant look as it's fastened with what looks to be seven buttons down the centre. They're sewn on with a contrasting green thread whilst the pearlescent finish almost has them blending in and quite hidden.
The overall collection really focused on the use of texture and layering of different fabrics or combination of different patterns to create stronger looks and ones that have more depth. This tailored coat dress is one that suggests just that as it's designed with subtle padding in the shoulders and notched lapels. The same finish of the buttons are used from the bottom of the lapel overlap straight down for a fitted silhouette, the edges of the flapped pockets just visible enough through the variety of prints on the front. The sheer black fabric tied around the neck drapes across the shoulder elegantly for a rather chic finish.
Printed matching suits were also elements of the collection that stood out amongst other pieces, just like these two examples above. The two-piece green suit is designed with a subtle cream floral print that's quite intricate; but this is heavily contrasted through the looped green matching ties that can be seen on the notch lapels, shoulders and down the trouser sides too. The patch pockets are large with angled pocket flaps whilst the trousers flare out from the knee and are finished with a turn-up hem. The second suit is more subdued yet graceful as the grey cloth is lifted through the lighter grey/blue print seen on the jacket and skirt. The pearlescent buttons are a great choice as angled flapped pockets and notched lapels are also included, finished off with strong padded shoulders and the accessory of a sheer fabric scarf draping draped around the neck.
Again, there has been more refined and elegant examples of tailoring during London Fashion Week and we can't wait to see what collections bring the fashion week to a close. Check out more bold pieces of tailoring below, including a bold pink maxi-length coat with black trimming from Huishan Zhang, a sharp neon pink skirt suit from HALPERN, a rather dashing 40's/50's style striped suit with a low scooped shawl collar and a very sharp grey pinstripe tailored jacket.
Want more fashion month content? Check back on our blog for more of the latest runways from London Fashion Week and from this busy February fashion month!
"PEOPLE WILL STARE. MAKE IT WORTH THEIR WHILE" - HARRY WINSTON -
A Hand Tailored Suit, the bespoke tailoring company offering you a slice of London’s Savile Row, for a cut of the cost.
Custom clothing cut for Men, Women & Children. We offer only the finest of cloths from only the finest of cloth merchants from around the world. Showrooms & tailoring visits throughout England, Ireland & Mainland Europe.
Follow us on Instagram & let us inspire you on Pinterest
Contact us today for more information
info@ahandtailoredsuit.com
For image & accreditation contact us at marketing@ahandtailoredsuit.com or review our image reference page.