Milan Fashion Week kicked off in fabulous style (if you missed the opening days from MFW, click here) and as it continued between 22nd and 28th February 2022, more fine examples of tailoring took to the runway, showcasing styles and silhouettes we could expect in the season. Here are just a few shows that caught our eye here at A Hand Tailored Suit.
Annakiki
Runway - 24th February 2022
The collection from Annakiki was very much a stand-out one thanks to the significant oversized and broad shoulders in the tailoring. It enhanced such a classic detail in a tailored jacket and with the variety of fabrics and textures in these three pieces, the impact was softened for that fashionable style. Each cut of the jackets were varied also, either designed in a single or double-breasted design, or the lapel folded across and sitting flat like the bright pink blazer dress. Flapped pockets were included in each piece also, again the pink piece featuring a third pocket flap detail on the chest.
This particular outfit from the runway was very interesting and quite artistic through the angled shapes featured on the centre front. The main colour of the oversized blazer was black and included thin double jet pockets and a welt pocket on the chest as standard details; yet the diagonal lines of the green were strong, almost a new take on the peak lapels. The collar is matching green with the points of the peak lapels rounded for a softer impact.
A check pattern is guaranteed to be seen in the Autumn/Winter season, and Annakiki's take on 2022's season involved plaids, gingham and enlarged checkerboard prints in the monochrome colour palette. The first two looks are edgy with the plain black cloth of the coat and blazer outlined through the check cloth's frayed design, contrasting with the crisp lines. The double-breasted silhouette works well for these, as it does in the gingham piece with enlarged sleeves. The curved shape at the elbows enhances the mini check print even more to show the difference in size between the two prints, an element that is similar in the final piece as the checkerboard is positioned on a diagonal and straight line.
Emporio Armani
Runway - 24th February 2022
Adding small elements of bright and vibrant colour to a monochrome outfit always results in a statement look, and this principle was applied to many looks in the Emporio Armani collection. These four were just a few of them, as pinks and greens were very popular in this runway and working together well in a tailored jacket such as the first look. The styles of the jackets themselves varied from single to double-breasted with either peak or notch lapels; but the lines across the shoulders were fitted for a more relaxed look too. The addition of vivid colours were either subtle through the shirts or definitive through the main cloth of the blazer, all resulting in great choices.
This look was quite the modern, dapper outfit on the runway as the model sported a rich blue and burgundy jacquard/brocade velvet jacket over a black waistcoat and accompanying light grey trousers. The blazer appears to be designed with a narrow shawl collar, or the illusion is given to one through the folds in the cloth. The cuffs are folded and the shoulders are finished with soft padding for a tailored finish. The waistcoat fastens across like a double-breasted style and falls across in a sharp diagonal to a small notched hem, creating this modern line and welt pockets cut into the garment. The trousers include pockets on the side and belt loops which are uniquely made to be a statement detail themselves through the choice of a thin belt secured with these wide belt loops.
The tailoring featured in the collection was very modern and in some looks, given quite a futuristic touch just as this jacket conveys. The metallic silver works so well with this quilted blazer, the lines running diagonally down from right to left as we see it, and this angled line is the main choice for the jacket's front edge too. It fastens up at the collar and high on the chest with two large black buttons as it curves softly down into a high and sharp notched hem. The shoulders are padded and create a great line to mirror the white shirt collar positioned over the top, the jacket fitted to the waist to give it a subtle curved edge also.
Versace
Runway - 25th February 2022
It was striking and it was powerful as the Versace fashion house took to the runway during Milan Fashion Week and conveyed how to style check cloths in tailoring - and make it ever so bold. They were formed of strong colour combinations - such as the red, pink and black design in the first notch lapel tartan blazer - and more, made even more significant through the large scale of the design. Even a hint to the basketweave design in the moss green overcoat was made as the pattern stood out in the black and pink colour combination. The strong lines of tailoring were there which, put together with the colour schemes of the garments, made for a dramatic runway.
A few classic suiting ensembles were included in the collection, focusing on the cut and silhouette of the pieces. The first black suit is a two-piece with oversized shoulders and a sharp high notched hem on the jacket. The notch lapels are short and the trousers are wide legged to allow the natural folds and drape to strengthen the look; but what was a key design in many looks was the corseted bodice. The centre is cinched in for an even more striking finish, the same shape and cut can be seen in the houndstooth two-piece also.
From corseted tailoring to relaxed overcoats, the overall vibe of the collection was powerful. These four overcoats were all designed with the same broad shoulders and maxi-length to deliver even more drama in the silhouette. The colours were vivid as the light bouncing off the materials allowed for a subtle shimmer or a glossy finish. Peak lapels were the style in all of them, varying from single to double-breasted cuts whilst including the classic flapped and welt pockets on each.
Elisabetta Franchi
Runway - 25th February 2022
The runway of Elisabetta Franchi showcased feminine tailoring superbly, creating elegant garments that would become a favourite statement piece for the evening. The double-breasted suit for an evening attire is a winner and each of these are cut as such in a variety of cloths, patterned or plain with a bit of texture whilst featuring small details that heighten the sophistication of the pieces: the gold buttons on the first look, the subtle showing of the white cuffs through the jacket sleeves in the second look, the shimmer of look three and the padded shoulders of the fourth outfit instantly transform the tailoring into something rather glamorous.
Glamorously chic is how to describe the overall theme of this collection as this tailored look is kept quite classic but rich. The models wears a double-breasted blazer with two flapped pockets positioned low on the garment and on an angle too. A thin welt pocket can just be seen behind the peak lapel which in itself, is unique as the collar is fastened over the top. The soft finish of the brass buttons aren't too sharp for the black skirt suit and the lines are kept clean and refined.
It's a look in the collection guaranteed to turn heads and capture the attention of others as it did on the runway. The model wears a black two-piece suit (could possibly be an tuxedo jumpsuit too) with contrasting satin peak lapels and underneath, an embellished net top for evening glamour. The shoulders are elegantly padded and the trousers are tapered, finishing above the ankles. As the lapels curve down to the waist, it also leads down into the dramatic satin skirt sash. Across the waist, the satin is draped and manipulated to form pleating which really shows off the fabric's natural shine. To the side, the satin drapes from the top of the waistline down to the floor as it brushes it gently whilst creating beautiful folds. It holds its structure to mirror the tailored jacket and trousers in what is, a wow moment.
The closing stages to Milan Fashion Week are guaranteed to be just as strong as these last few days have been and we're sure, more defining tailoring will be showcased. Check out more great pieces of tailoring below, including a sharp red safari jacket from Max Mara, more oversized tailoring from Prada, colourful pieces from Genny and a funky teal blue two-piece suit from Etro.
Want more fashion month content? Check back on our blog for more of the latest runways from the closing stages of Milan Fashion Week, before fashion month concludes in Paris!
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