Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Spring/Summer 22: The Overview | A Hand Tailored Suit

Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Spring/Summer 22: The Overview

As we reach the end of January and prepare for another busy fashion month (beginning with Copenhagen Fashion Week between 1st - 4th February), we are first treated to some of the most artistic and eye-catching designs in fashion with Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week (24th - 27th January 2022). We've already delved into some of the beautiful pieces that were showcased at the Chanel Spring/Summer 2022 show, but across the days of 24th - 27th January, there were more examples of fine tailoring that we couldn't help but notice.

Alexandre Vauthier

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Runway - 25th January 2022

The show encapsulated evening glamour with a certain 70's and 80's style to it, definitely seen through the silhouette of the outfits. The garments were simple yet refined and this suit in particular made from a luxurious black velvet shone in the spotlight. The wide contrasting peak lapels balanced out the oversized, boxy shoulders of the jacket, whilst the waist was cinched in to create a flared out hem. The placement of the one-button fastening is low down and situated below the waist, whilst the classic elements of two flapped pockets also feature. The cut of the trousers are slightly wide and long but the movement of the fabric is captured beautifully on the runway.

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The colour palette of the collection was minimal, but in turn absolutely effective through the use of monochrome styling. This red velvet suiting number for example is the same style and shape as the black suit above; yet the colour choice of this bold red in this velvet makes it its own statement look.

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Sometimes a crisp white suit is so iconic, and this in its three-piece form was that. The jacket with its oversized shoulder and wide peak lapels was worn over the top of a low scooped waistcoat with just two buttons for the fastening. The hemline of the waistcoat is high, sitting level with the waist and over the trouser waist. Like with the other jackets, the shape of sleeves are wide so as to mirror this power suit style, and along with a few other pieces (including a grey double-breasted piece with a two-button front), there was a signature theme on the runway.

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Alexis Mabille

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Runway - 25th January 2022

It was another collection that delivered with showstopping pieces through its monochromatic styling and silhouettes that balanced constructed tailoring with elegant movements of lighter fabrics. The outfit above was formed of a tailored sleeves jacket and trousers, whilst the delicate black lace veil across the headpiece transformed the look into a piece of haunting beauty. The jacket was cut in its double-breasted form with four large metallic buttons on the front, hints of silver running through to mimic the subtle sheen of the material. The wide notch on the hem and its extravagant curved peak lapels contrast the curved collar that rises over the head. With it fitted in at the waist, the trousers flare out slightly from the top to the hem.

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From a trouser suit to a tailored dress, this piece was cut from a nude cloth and enhanced through the ivory satin or silk panelling across the split hem and its shawl collar. The dress is wrapped across the centre like a double-breasted jacket would be, but is modernised with the addition of split sleeves and giving the impression of a separate cape floating behind the model as she walks. The shoulderline is strong enough for the overall appearance of the garment, and the fitted silhouette gives it all the more impact with its tailoring features.

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A well-tailored suit is always noticed and yet in this collection, the outfits without a hint of one were noticed just as much and balanced the collection well. The model above wears a pair of light pink trousers, high-waisted and the hem finishing at the ankle. The cloth appears to be sequins which create this lovely reflective design, something that is contrasted by the matte appearance of the white long-sleeved jumper. It has a bumpy texture to add definition and the sleeves are dropped to create an oversized look. With a wide and high crew neck, the bishop sleeves certainly add shape to the outfit whilst maintaining a certain elegance to it. Other sharp items to note include a black blazer with a low shawl lapel line that is edged with sheer pleating, and another floor-length blazer dress piece with silver buttons running all the way from the waist down. The disguised patch pockets are a lovely touch.

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Dior

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Runway - 24th January 2022

It was a collection that was minimal and very chic for the Haute Couture week, with some lovely tailored elements thrown in. A few suits were involved, along with gorgeous coats such as the one above. The model sports a silky smooth stone coloured coat which mirrors a double-breasted shape across the front. The notch lapels are curved and the collar is wide to almost meet the arm seams. There's a soft line across the shoulders but structured enough to ensure its great balance of sharp lines with elegant grace. The matching belt sits across the waist and two large patch pockets appear to stand away from the coat.

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 The power of a double-breasted suit or coat is one not to be underestimated, particularly when done so elegantly. It was a common style throughout the collection as the models above wear on the runway, varying from peak to notch lapels, no buttons on the front to ten on the overcoat. The grey jacket and trousers are very business-like but certainly modern with no visible buttons for the fastening. Each suit would be a great choice for working or just to wear out and about for that chic city outfit and with the variety of tailoring features, they are all definitely versatile.

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It's a style of coat not commonly worn and yet when on display during the Dior runway, makes it one that needs to be seen more often. Its havelock style is modernised through the fabric choices as the black leather stripes seen on both layers break up the wool/cashmere cloth. With a standard collar the preferred choice, a small belt sits in-between the points and its buckle matching the subtle sheen of the leather panels. The use of embellishment and embroidery to ensure the collection was luxurious definitely showed how it can transform garments.

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Juana Martin

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Runway - 27th January 2022

It was a collection that had flair during the Haute Couture fashion week and across all designs, a simple silhouette was made extravagant through the use of fabric layering and manipulation, just like the outfit above shows. Lilac in colour, it was a maxi-length blazer dress with a chunky belt across the waist to break it up and separate the embellishment from the simplicity of the skirt. The top part features peak lapels and curved shoulders which in turn, the embellishment provided extra height. Flapped pockets were also added and next to them would be the tall ruffled cuffs at the end of the sleeves.

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From glittery embellishment to decorative art, the model sports a beautiful white suit that's long in the body and worn over a pair of wide-legged trousers. The hem brushes the floor ever so slightly and the material creates lovely natural folds as the model walks, something which is contrasted through the structured blazer. With its straight hem and double-breasted front, the strong details of it are most certainly the tall ruffled cuffs (a signature detail across the collection overall) and the gorgeous floral print on the one peak lapel, making it a piece of art and showing how one detail can elevate a suit to a complete new level.

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Along with ruffles being a popular design feature were polka dots as both are combined in this piece. The outfit consisted of jacket and trousers, the jacket designed with two flapped patch pockets on the top of the chest and what looks to be two larger ones near the bottom. The outer edges of these pockets are surrounded with an additional polka dot layer, whilst the trouser legs are cut in a wide-leg style for extra drama. The accessorising of the red belt across the waist definitely breaks the impact of the pattern up and once more, shows how accessories within tailoring are great for adding extra depth.

2022 and the beginning of a busy fashion month has definitely kicked off with some great haute couture pieces, some keeping it classic and others showing how modern and versatile couture can be. Check out some other gorgeous pieces from the Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture week, including some colourful pastel jackets from Celia Kritharioti and some sharp printed suits and coats from Imane Ayissi.

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Make sure to check back and view the latest from the catwalks in the upcoming February fashion month on our blog!

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