The Beginning of Paris Menswear Fashion Week S/S23 - A Hand Tailored Suit

The Beginning of Paris Menswear Fashion Week S/S23

From Milan to Paris, the Spring/Summer 2023 menswear shows continued in the fashion calendar. Paris Menswear Fashion Week took place between the 21st - 26th June 2022, where some of the biggest names in fashion took their collections to the centre stage and of course, we spotted a vast amount of tailoring and sharp sartorial styling. Here are just a few from the opening days of the week, and we begin with:

Taakk

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RTW Runway

The Taakk fashion house showcased their S/S23 collection on the opening day of Paris Fashion Week, displaying a vast range from tailored jackets to matching fabric prints sets and denim attires also. The looks were eclectic but focused on the emphasis of smart/casual attires, just as the first look epitomises with the grey tailored six-button front gradually transforming into blue butcher stripes on the sleeves. A similar colour palette is spotted in the last look above, with a high lapel six-button jacket and trousers that's worn underneath a padded light blue knee-length coat. Denim is a staple whatever the weather, and so the fourth look above conveys a pair of slightly fringed straight-cut trousers with a denim button shirt tucked into the waistband. The structure of the matching denim is contrasted through the softness of the second and third attires, both designed with this delicate graphic print that flows even more on a loose and lightweight shirt.

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A couple of pieces that were very interesting to see the construction of were these two above, both displaying a tailored jacket top before gradually moving into a shirt at the bottom. The pastel yellow examples featured soft padded shoulders and in the form of notch or peak lapels, with the three-button fronts including a standard jacket button and two smaller shirt buttons. The sleeves fall from the shoulders with a soft tailored line into a draping bottom half, gathered into the white cuffs. It was even more interesting to see this style tucked into a pair of tailored trousers in the blue and grey attire, with the wide notch lapels continuing the soft tailored shoulders before falling into rolled up sleeves. The large button on the front is certainly more noticeable than the first smaller shirt button, making smart/casual tailoring a real, modern statement.

Walter Van Beirendonck

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Runway

Bold prints combined with vibrant colours and textures throughout were just a few features associated with the Walter Van Beirendonck collection during the second day of fashion week - the bolder and bigger, the better it seemed with its tailoring. The first look showcases a sharp white tailored jacket with gold buttons on the front and these interesting cut-out panels on the sides (almost indicating ribs) that expose the subtle uses of bright oranges and greens underneath. If the shoulders weren't fitted, they were increased in size to juxtapose the tailored fit of the body. Classic welt and flapped pockets were included and if the cloth wasn't designed with a strong print, the textures would prove vital in creating an exaggerated piece, just as the white pleated ruffles on the black jacket signify. From jackets to shirts, no look was left unnoticed through the strong use of colours and structure.

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Using many vibrant colours in one attire is bound to stand out, but the collection showcased how to stand out wearing just one colour and therefore kept the powerful tailoring coming one after the other. The first image above shows the model sporting a shimmery green jacket with the graphic art featured in a nude beige shade. This same colour is used for the four buttons on the cuffs and two-button front, with other details including classic notch lapels and small flapped pockets. The black tailored suit also includes a two-button front, four-button cuffs and notch lapels; but the use of just one colour is full of impact thanks to the lines that tailoring makes: it's cool and effortless.

Louis Vuitton

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RTW Runway

The Louis Vuitton collection on day 3 of Paris Menswear Fashion Week was one that certainly wouldn't go amiss. It was full of colour and prints all mixed into strong tailoring and imaginative designs, combining modern fashion with classic tailored lines. Double-breasted coats in a military style were cut in a patterned or plain cloth, the powerful outerwear then strengthened by the beautiful floral designs that were seen on a few pieces, such as the third look displays. It's an oversized boxy shirt with 3/4 length sleeves and a pair of loose leg trousers, starting off with a dark green on the left before falling down into this scene of flowers to show how elegant menswear can be.

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Focusing on tailoring details up close shows how immaculate the collection was, particularly through the use of flapped patch pockets in a number of outfits. These three looks took on the classic safari shirt in jacket form as the first yellow jacket includes slightly dropped shoulders and two prominent flapped square pockets on the chest. The second look displays a longer coat with the pockets still a focus on the front of this yellow and pink patterned piece, with a few more pockets included. They proved to be a vocal point through its neat construction and soft lines which, regardless if the jacket/coat was plain or not, the pockets would be a strong detail.

Dries Van Noten

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RTW Runway

Day three delivered the Dries Van Noten collection at Paris Menswear Fashion Week, and these pieces really had a focus on the working tailored wardrobe, switched up with a few elements of popping colour and eccentric styling. The first look conveys this for sure, with the model wearing a black pinstripe mid-thigh length coat over a white tailored shirt that has the cuffs sticking through. The red trousers are quite sporty with the print and design, whilst the bright blue striped trousers echoed the strength of accessorising colours correctly thanks to the black jacket picking out the matching stripes. Double-breasted suits also seemed to be a popular choice for the Spring/Summer collection with an eight-button front, possibly starting the popularity for these as working suits once more.

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There were a few patterned pieces during this runway, again in double-breasted cuts such as the sand coloured suit with white feather prints and the burgundy/red printed two-piece ensemble; but a detail that was very prominent was the use of pinstripes. As spotted amongst a few other runways during Paris Fashion Week, the pinstripe cloth was on show in a navy and red style in the first look, with the white accents through the shirt really picking up this sartorial style. Pinstripes and chalkstripes always look sharp from afar; but to see the design up close when involved in immaculate construction only adds to the impact. It may be that pinstripe and chalkstripe suits are going to become popular once again for Spring/Summer 2023.

Paris Menswear Fashion Week continued with more fine examples of sartorial dressing between the fourth and final day of the week. Check out more from the opening days below. Which collection interested you the most?

Bianca Saunders - Runway

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Rhude - Runway

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Amiri - Runway

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Reese Cooper - Runway

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If you've missed any of the latest runways from London or Milan, check out our blog posts below:

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