Copenhagen Fashion Week was back and showcasing its latest trends from some of the most iconic Scandinavian fashion names out there, along with names soon to break into the fashion world. Between 1st and 4th February, we got a glimpse into what we could expect to see in the Autumn/Winter 22 season and of course, a number of looks were very cool in its tailored form.
(Looks in order of appearance L-R: (di)vision; Soeren Le Schmidt; Rabens Saloner; Lovechild 1979)
The overall portrayal of the tailoring across day 1 was chic and pieces that were quite minimal yet sublime in the cut. For the autumn/winter season, there of course was a heavy influence of overcoats but also keeping the colour palette to a neutral option, definitely a few looks taking inspiration for the autumnal shades of rust orange and mustard yellow. They are pieces that will be on trend, but pieces that have always been a tailoring staple and are enhanced of that factor on the runway.
Soeren Le Schmidt
Set at a theme park in Tivoli Gardens, the Soeren Le Schmidt show was quite clever in displaying the collection's classic looks against busy and colourful backgrounds. The outfits here show two white textured woollen outfits that are finished with black trimming along the peak lapels and too on the pockets and buttons. The left displays a four-button double-breasted overcoat or blazer dress with a statement black patch pocket on the side, matching the black patch pocket on the single-breasted oversized blazer. The trousers are finished with a black side stripe and the front edge of the blazer too, giving it quite a retro/60's vibe to it.
Soeren Le Schmidt
This look from the same collection depicts a cropped double-breasted blazer with wide notch lapels and collar, accessorised with a silver chain across the buttons. It's almost like a trench coat combined with a modern blazer style to create a very cool new jacket.
The collection was very heavily inspired by tailoring, with oversized qualities in the jackets and trousers continuing to be a common trend. It was a variety of single and double-breasted jackets in their monochromatic styles with either notch or peak lapels, the jackets styled open or cinched in with a belt over the top, much like the dark brown jacket with a four-button front and its peak lapels fastened with a matching button. The bold sapphire blue is a look that would be incredible for a winter evening out, whilst the relaxed vibe of the all-cream outfit is very casual indeed.
Chalkstripe never looked more chic here, cut and made into a sleeveless jacket dress that falls below the knee and styled with a shorter low V-neck dress underneath. The padding of the shoulders has been kept in the jacket to give more elevation to the look, designed with a three-button front and the dress underneath fastened slightly off centre on the front with two buttons. Vertical pockets are included in the dress for extra coolness that is effortlessly conveyed in this piece.
From chalkstripe to pinstripe, they are both timeless fabric designs in the tailoring world - and both can look just as modern. The oversized fit of the jacket and trousers here are enough to showcase an outfit that is quite simple with just the three garments, but easily effective as a runway piece. The jacket hem is sharp and the trousers sitting just waist height, giving more focus to the wide leg trousers that drape nicely when moving. Short peak lapels feature on the jacket front, along with a one-button finish and jet pockets just below.
(Looks in order of appearance L-R: Day Birger et Mikkelsen; Wood Wood; Baum und Pferdgarten; Soulland)
Day 2 of Copenhagen Fashion Week AW22 arrived and so did more outfits where layering was key and monochromatic looks continued to be chic. The black two-piece suit in the first image has wide sleeves and a lovely curve to the shoulderline, the big gold buttons on the front transforming this number into a chic evening outfit. Puffer or quilted coats are great for keeping warm but with a few extra layers, look effortless - and there's no harm going all bold with the colour or pattern choice either for the coldest seasons of the year.
Don't be afraid to experiment with vibrant colours in the autumn/winter as the outfits in the Fassbender collection conveyed. The first look is a bright green roll neck worn underneath a silver double-breasted blazer and paired with loose-fitting green trousers also. The blazer itself is designed with sharp peak lapels and the design of the cloth is a modern take on the chalkstripe. It has a four-button front and flapped pockets with oversized shoulders that make a stand-out outfit overall. The second look shows how the pleated bright green can be toned down with a darker shade over the top, such as this mustard brown overcoat with the belt fastened across the waist. The wide sleeves make for even more of a dramatic effect.
More examples of implementing vibrancy into your autumn/winter wardrobe can be seen in the Stine Goya collection on day 2, varying from pastel shades to gradient designs. The first look continues the oversized style with the draping of the shoulders and the purple jacket longer in length, whilst the check purple and green pastel jumper is soft in appearance but edgy through the layering of the shirt collar on one side. If colour is too bold of a style, then opting for an overcoat with a gradient appearance is definitely more subtle but still as strong. The coat is made with a wide collar sitting flat on the shoulders and sleeve belts on the cuffs with the hem sitting at calf length.
Minimal styling always works as the Skall Studio collection presented, with the look above being one shown on the runway. It makes for a very chic and sophisticated business and daytime outfit through the wide leg trousers designed with pleating in the waist and front pockets. There are no centre creases down the front which makes it very relaxed, and a thin white fabric belt fastened through the belt loops links well to the delicate broderie anglaise blouse worn by the model. The ruffled outer edges and around the neck heighten the elegant piece, along with the marble effect of the belt buckle bringing it together for that effortless finish.
(Looks in order of appearance L-R: Martin Asbjorn; Henrik Vibskov; Jade Cropper; Mark Kenly Domino Tan)
It was a combination of classic tailored silhouettes such as the grey two-piece suit with peak lapels and boxy shoulders in the first image, to overcoats with a more artistic and modern design much like the final image as seen above. Check pieces are always significant within a suit of coat as the second image shows how effective an enlarged check print coat can be, especially in a bright orange shade. The classic button fastening always works but designs without them prove to be sleek and very modern, but even more modern and edgy with a small chain or hook fastening in the centre of a tailored floor-length coat as the third image conveys.
If this fashion week has proven anything, it's that monochrome styling will always be timeless and classic, just as this outfit from the Martin Asbjorn collection shows. The model is seen wearing a knee-length orange overcoat with a subtle peach undertone to it, as is the same with the jacket underneath. The overcoat is designed with raglan-style sleeves, a shiny silver quilted lining and notch lapels with either white or silver buttons on the front. The jacket length is mid-thigh as notch lapels also feature and one side overlapping the overcoat lapels. The neckline is low, leading into the single fastening on the front and jet pockets tucked into for that cool look.
Retro with a bit of edge is how you could describe some of the outfits from the Henrik Vibskov collection, ranging from double-breasted suits to overcoats and a complete set composed of the same print. The first look is a Glen check number with a plaid shirt worn underneath with a closed collar and padded shoulders, whilst look number two is a plaid check overcoat that encapsulates Autumn completely with its yellows and browns running through the design. The third look is a strong check piece consisting of a single-breasted coat, the matching straight-leg trousers and buttoned shirt. The black buttons on the shirt and overcoat help break up the check design slightly and is enhanced through the black/blue lining of the coat itself.
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
The looks in this collection were very sartorial and dapper, varying from more double-breasted overcoats that are smart for the winter, to classic business looks with a modern twist. The first grey coat is slightly boxy on the shoulders but with the collar popped, elevates it to another strong level, especially with how sharp the notch lapels are and the high neck of the blouse. The second look is a neutral palette with the jacket being the statement piece whilst also posing as a potential overcoat too. With a two-button front and flapped pockets, the brown trousers are sharp with the centre crease whilst the light stone tie brightens up the outfit. The final outfit again has the strong effect of the popped collar but on a single-breasted overcoat with buttoned sleeve belts. The trousers are 3/4 length for an edgy style, kept sharp through the hem and centre crease whilst the light blue shirt is tucked in for a smooth finish.
There certainly have been some trendy pieces at Copenhagen Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2022 and styles we can expect to see at the end of the year, but what was your favourite?
Make sure to check back and view the latest from the catwalks in the upcoming February fashion month on our blog! Have a look at what's already been showcased on the runways so far:
- Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Spring/Summer 22: The Overview
- Paris Menswear Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 22: The Overview
- Chanel Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture Runway in Paris
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