Both the Giorgio and Emporio lines of the Armani fashion house took to the Milan runways during Spring/Summer 2023 season. Both differed in the tailoring with regards to the cut and cloths used; yet the colour palettes remained pretty similar, with a lot of blues and the classic suiting colours used in both. There seemed to be an overall calming vibe across both the Emporio and Giorgio collection, showcasing menswear in a relaxing way whilst still including the modern styles of tailoring. We're going to be delving into a few looks from both runways here, and we begin with the Giorgio collection.
Giorgio Armani
The Giorgio Armani runway really focused on the blue/grey/white colour palette with a pop of purple or brown included in either the full garment or a print. With just a small use of colours, this meant more emphasis would be put on the individuality of the outfits themselves, and it proved layering to be the key message for the Spring/Summer 2023 season.
There was a good balance of single and double-breasted attires during this runway, some styled more casually than others to show the versatility of menswear; but this last look in particular was visually striking. The metallic finish of the grey jacket and sage green pleated trousers were toned down through the navy blue suede shoes and logo-printed top underneath. The jacket was double-breasted with tall peak lapels and flapped pockets near the bottom, with matching and smaller versions of the buttons featuring on the cuffs also. The trousers are slim with the pleating on the waist noticeable for that prominent tailored cut and front pockets down the side for that cool, practical finish.
A few waistcoats were spotted on the runway from the Giorgio Armani show, each one different and again, showcased in more casual forms. All three examples above are single-breasted with four buttons on the front to completely fasten them up. The notched hems were small and subtle, with the neckline falling to middle of the chest. The second and third waistcoats were cut from the same colours of blue, grey and brown in different geometric prints, whilst also including four double jet pockets on the front, two either side. The first example is a lovely mint green shade to contrast the silver of the suit; yet the power of accessorising shines through here thanks to the grey and teal ascot enhancing these tones perfectly.
As already mentioned, pops of purple were spotted on the runway to showcase the luxury of the fashion brand. The colour was also used within the looks that were more relaxed with its tailoring, enhancing the summer vibes through the use of a neck scarf draped around the shoulders, or a pair of loose-fitting trousers that had a flat front. The first look above shows the model sporting a deep purple jacket that's fitted to the shoulders and the waist. The notch lapels were narrow whilst the hem was slightly rounded on the front edges, contrasted through the sharpness of the white shirt collar and blue polka dot tie. Most certainly, the Giorgio Armani runway showed how tailoring can be relaxed for the summer, keeping it cool through the wearing of a cooler colour palette.
Emporio Armani
Much like the Giorgio Armani runway, the Emporio Armani runway focused on the classic blues and greys within their sartorial looks, keeping the looks fairly simply and minimal for definite impact; but breaking up this colour palette were some more summery and pastel colours too. An emphasis was put on the jumpers (as they were also in the Giorgio collection) styled with a variety of trousers in either a two-tone or monochromatic ensemble. If anything, the runway allowed the simplicity of the garment's construction to be the key highlight.
To brighten up the collection, lime greens and yellows along with some pastel hues were included to encapsulate the Spring.Summer vibe in a toned down way. The two looks above show these colours in their tailored structure, with the first model sporting a geometric printed navy blue jacket with pops of colour throughout. It's designed with a two-button front and a lovely, soft shoulder line to keep a hint of relaxed tailoring involved. The centre front edge at the hem is rounded with notch lapels the style of choice, much like the lime green jacket. The thin jet pockets are much more noticeable through the sole use of this colour on the garment; however, it makes it a staple feature and acts as a base for the relaxed patterned trousers and accompanying neck scarf.
Wearing crew neck or roll neck long-sleeved tops underneath a tailored blazer always makes for a sophisticated and cool outfit, particularly when it is essentially two different outfits in one. The styling on the Emporio Armani runway displayed this very well, showing how stylish a bright jumper tucked into trousers can look on its own for that powerful look as is shown in the first image. If the sweater or jumper is quite vivid in its tones, it could be a distraction from the tailoring itself; yet the second look shows how picking out the darker grey in the top and incorporating that into the suit makes it blend so effortlessly. The crew necks can act as a base for that statement jacket (as demonstrated in look three) or can simply worn because it looks modern and sleek with a striped blazer.
The variety of tailored blazers and suits in this collection would leave you spoilt for choice. The mixing of single and double-breasted cuts differing between notch and peak lapels was able to ensure each tailored piece could be worn for at least one occasion or day in the week. The first look of the model sporting a black dinner jacket would indeed be perfect for an evening attire; yet the clever styling of the off-white cotton trousers brings back this element of fun and versatility as the peak lapels are left sharp with a bit of sheen. The second and third blazer showcases the variety in pattern/print style and its impact depending on the cut of the jacket itself, the two-button front in look three works very well with this enlarged gold/silver design. Keeping the lines relaxed in a check patterned blazer allows the cloth to speak for itself with its strong simplicity, whilst in the fifth look, the use of one colour in a double-breasted cut also demonstrates this timeless and effective design of tailoring.
What was your favourite look from the collection, or indeed, your favourite detail from the show? Both runways delivered a lot of sartorial inspiration indeed! If you've missed any of the latest runways, check out our recent blog posts below for more fashion inspiration:
- More Fashion from Paris Menswear Fashion Week S/S23
- The Beginning of Paris Menswear Fashion Week S/S23
- Milan Menswear Fashion Week S/S23: The Highlights
- London Fashion Week June 2022: The Overview
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