It's that time of year again. Fashion Week returned and the fast-paced fashion season continued to showcase new, innovative fashion designers alongside those very much established in the industry for many years. From London we travelled to Milan where, between 21st September and 27th September 2021, more fashion brands and designers took to the runway and displaying their pieces for Spring/Summer 2022. We at A Hand Tailored Suit have been closely observing the last couple of fashion weeks for cool elements of tailoring and here are just a few shows that delivered in Milan:
Spring/Summer 2022 Ready-To-Wear
A collection full of lightweight fabrics, floating down the runway in a pastel colour palette or pieces more vibrant for Spring/Summer, Emporio Armani didn't disappoint with including some tailoring as the models above show. From relaxed jackets on the shoulders in a check cloth to versions slightly more tailored but still casual through the choice of patch pockets, not forgetting the relaxed shape on the trousers with great pleating on the waist to create that style. The shirting is delicate and minimal, even the blouse with red, blue and green on is ever so elegant with its watercolour effect.
This model is displaying how wearing a patterned jacket works wonders styled with trousers in the same colour, but plain weave. The ice blue geometric pattern is formed in a two-button jacket with rounded shoulders to soften the impact, whilst flapped pockets are cut on a subtle curve and the hem rounded also. The notch lapels are also subtle and therefore making this attire ever so effective, whilst the trousers are also a relaxed fit before being gathered into the cuffs.
Smart/casual is always a go-to for styling tailoring and the model shows such an example for Spring/Summer, wearing a jacket with herringbone weave that can certainly be noticed from a distance. Styled with the striped shirt underneath left undone and cargo trousers, the impact of the pattern is minimised. The jacket includes contrasting double jet pockets and the appropriate notch lapels, the shoehorn buttons arranged in a short stance and the shoulders draped. Notice the adjustable belts on the trouser hem to maintain the relaxed silhouette or taper for a sharper finish.
So many tailoring details from this collection that must be observed such as these above, showing the array of texture and colours, cut and form that is forecast for next season.
Spring/Summer 2022 Ready-To-Wear
On the Fendi runway was a vast range of dresses, suits and coats in a variety of textures and colours, some pieces made with a brighter colour palette with its impact softened elegantly through the choice of fabric; but one consistent tailored element to note was the use of peak lapels. Never underestimate the power a peak lapel brings to an outfit, lifting the shoulderline to one more refined and stronger in look, elevating a certain confidence on the wearer.
Just like the power of peak lapels should never be underestimated, the same goes to a elegant blouse tucked into a pair of high-waisted trousers. The model above wears a beige top, no shoulder seams noticed, the sharp folds centralising from the neck as a statement feature. The sleeves fall down into gathered cuffs, finishing off the shape nicely and further contrasting the sharp tailored waist on the trousers. The centre fold line is subtle but noticeable as it stems from below the waist line. side pockets included to deliver that extra element of power.
Another feature not to underestimate? The power of a fabric train draping from the back of the outfit as this model shows on the Fendi runway. She wears a keyhole sky blue piece cinched in on the waist with a thin belt and the hem draping softly on the knee, the matching trousers a loose fit also and brushing the floor. Over the top it appears to be a matching fabric coat that floats down to the floor and drapes behind her, the shoulders sharp enough to match the delicate beauty of this piece.
So modern and edgy was this collection full of jackets, coats and a few dresses thrown into the mix too, but of course the suits caught our eye. Single-breasted or double-breasted cut, what's your preference? Both models wear white jackets with either notch or peak lapels and black buttons on the front, not forgetting the same silver embellishment on the one side for added drama. Whichever cut of jacket, they both look fantastic.
Colour blocking has been a theme spotted a few times within fashion month and here is a perfect example during the John Richmond runway, the model sporting a tailored white and black jacket over a black bow blouse and white shorts. On the jacket are notch lapels and thin double jet pockets, the black panelling cutting across the centre of the piece and down the centre front. The side of the sleeves are also designed with the black panel acting as a defining outline for the piece - and such definition too.
Keeping the statement factor flowing throughout this collection with this small steampunk jacket, designed with its button detailing on the front and matching bands on the cuff for that traditional military-style vibe. The collar folds out to give the illusion of notch lapels but the refined line on the shoulder retains a classic and good fit of the jacket.
A collection that was wild on the runway, the looks let loose to create a show to remember and definitely pave a trend for next season. The model above wears a tiger-themed ensemble, digitally printed fabric of a tiger of the trousers whilst the jacket focuses solely on the animal's stripes. Within this jacket are classic tailoring features of flapped pockets and a welt one hiding behind the peak lapels. The style is oversized as noticed in the long body, pockets situated low on the front the of course, the long collar too. The double-breasted pieces is detailed with a six-button front, one of them being a gold brooch and the shoulder boxy in style.
Who says pattern clashing can't look stylish when its this refined? From the cheetah/leopard double-breasted boxy jacket to a draped overcoat with contrasting zebra print lapels on a tiger print coat, it somehow works. But of course if that's a little bit too much animal print, the soft black overcoat with contrasting notch lapels styled over animal print softens the impact just nicely, especially with the delicate floral embroidery that makes up most of the design.
If pattern clashing is too daring, pattern matching is just as effective and albeit subtle with such a bold animal print. Designed with a pleated waist to give the high waisted trousers their loose and draped finish, it's quite chic paired with the long jacket worn over the top. The element of a notch lapel is there as the collar is a standard shape and blends in well to the overall pattern.
This collection was simply effortless, each piece with more attention and focus on the cut of the design just like with this pink ensemble the model wears. There's a vintage feel to this as the jacket is short and designed with a two-button front sitting high on the body to create shorter peak lapels. The top line is relaxed to the shoulders, the sleeves falling gracefully down to the cuff, contrasted by the rather high turned-up cuff on the trousers to create a statement feature in this piece.
Effortless tailoring made bold with this number, the model sporting a cropped black jacket with no buttons on the front and notch lapels layered over to the side like a double-breasted cut. Again the shoulders are relaxed but the hemlines sharp as the trousers include a lovely draping property to the them when walking down the runway. The printed shirt is fully fastened with a sharp collar and accessorising to complete this modern piece of tailoring.
Quilting is made very chic indeed as the models above wear two versions of quilted coats in an ivory shade, the first wearing a midi-length coat with popper buttons and 3/4 length sleeves to show the shimmery finish on the cuffs. The second coat is a more casual style with two large flapped patch pockets situated on the top and designed with a zip fastening and poppers. The coat is collarless with a lovely draped line on the shoulders again leading down to the shimmery ivory cuffs on the end of the sleeves. It may quite possibly be something we see more of next season with its sophisticated finish.
Milan Fashion Week delivered in elegance and statements that is for sure, portraying some cool tailoring features we could see in Spring/Summer 2022. Now it's time to turn to Paris for the finale of fashion month! Check out some other stylish pieces of tailoring from Milan below, including an unique floral green piece from Del Core, colourful prints from Maryling and crips jackets from Ports 1961.
Did you have any favourite shows during Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022? What were some of your favourite elements?
Don't forget to check out the rest of the big fashion weeks on our blog:
- New York Fashion Week S/S22: The Fashion Roundup
- London Fashion Week S/S22: The Fashion Roundup
- Paris Fashion Week S/S22: The Fashion Roundup
Want more style inspiration? Check out our Return To Work style guides or the latest celebrity style from this year's Emmy Awards:
- The Return To Work: Inspiration For Your Office Style - Ladies Edition
- The Return To Work: Inspiration For Your Office Style - Gents Edition
- The Emmy Awards 2021: Ladies of the Red Carpet
- The Emmy Awards 2021: Gentlemen of the Red Carpet
Are you feeling inspired for a brand new tailored piece? Get in touch with our talented bespoke tailoring team today!
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